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I didn't see an audio thread, so I hope this is the correct place to post this question.
I had an audio shop replace my head unit with a Sony MEX-GS620BT, when it was installed all was well, until I shut the car off, got gas, and started it back up, WTH!!?? no subs, I took the car back twice after and each time the installer said he has it fixed, replace the Bose interface and has been working with the engineers and, still once I turn off the car, start it back up I loose the Bose system. if the car sits overnight all is back.
he's still trying to figure out why and told me the quick fix is to rewire the system and bypass the Bose and put new component subs in the doors. is this sound like an installer issue or am I having a problem with my system? any info or advice would be greatly appreciated, I just want my sound back.
thanks guys
Carmen (Pete)
If you scroll down past the C1-C2 Forum to General Corvette Topics, there’s an Audio/Electronics section where you may be able to get an answer. Good luck!
Last edited by Mickeyrx70; 04-16-2018 at 12:10 PM.
I am experiencing something similar with my system. I have noticed that it is closely correlated to how hot the interior of the car is. If the interior reaches approximately 90 degrees or higher for an extended period of time, the subs will not turn on most of the time. I did some testing, and my head unit outputs approximately 11.4 v for the sub trigger. I connected the trigger directly to a 12v source (which measured 12.3 v), and it worked.
I have two hypotheses for why this is happening:
My head unit is dropping the sub trigger voltage as temperature increases. This seems unlikely, but I have to test this in full.
The ground is marginal enough that in high heat, there is just enough resistance that it doesn't trigger the Bose system to turn on. Grounds are a common issue on our cars after all.
I plan to clean the grounds and see what happens, just have to find the time for it. It isn't a big deal right now with the colder weather, but it'll be getting hot again soon. The other potential solution is to run a relay triggered by amp wire so that the Bose amp can get triggered by a higher voltage source. If you want to do minimal messing around, this is what I would suggest you have your installer do.
I am experiencing something similar with my system. I have noticed that it is closely correlated to how hot the interior of the car is. If the interior reaches approximately 90 degrees or higher for an extended period of time, the subs will not turn on most of the time. I did some testing, and my head unit outputs approximately 11.4 v for the sub trigger. I connected the trigger directly to a 12v source (which measured 12.3 v), and it worked.
I have two hypotheses for why this is happening:
My head unit is dropping the sub trigger voltage as temperature increases. This seems unlikely, but I have to test this in full.
The ground is marginal enough that in high heat, there is just enough resistance that it doesn't trigger the Bose system to turn on. Grounds are a common issue on our cars after all.
I plan to clean the grounds and see what happens, just have to find the time for it. It isn't a big deal right now with the colder weather, but it'll be getting hot again soon. The other potential solution is to run a relay triggered by amp wire so that the Bose amp can get triggered by a higher voltage source. If you want to do minimal messing around, this is what I would suggest you have your installer do.
Similar but not exactly the same symptoms, I can get in my car after work after it's been sitting in the sun and all is well, I drive .8 of a mile to get gas, and when I start it back up nothing, nada . the last time I had it at the installers shop, he had it paying for hours in his shop, it never dropped, I'm not sure how long it sat till I got there, but I turned it on and it was great, I went to start it up and leave, and lost all the bass (Bose) again.
he's rewired it 3 times, and replaced the Bose interface once.
I would do the relay route and see if it helps. It appears once the amp is triggered, it will stay on as long as it continues to receive a trigger signal. I experienced the exact opposite in that when I started the car, it wouldn't turn on. When I stopped and started again after a bit, it turned on. I have also had situations where it would turn on after about 5 minutes of driving, but that's much rarer.
I would do the relay route and see if it helps. It appears once the amp is triggered, it will stay on as long as it continues to receive a trigger signal. I experienced the exact opposite in that when I started the car, it wouldn't turn on. When I stopped and started again after a bit, it turned on. I have also had situations where it would turn on after about 5 minutes of driving, but that's much rarer.
Thanks Guys, I'll get this info to the installer, it sounds reasonable the AMP is not getting triggered.
...I took the car back twice after and each time the installer said he has it fixed, replace the Bose interface and has been working with the engineers and, still once I turn off the car, start it back up I loose the Bose system. if the car sits overnight all is back...
I'm not sure, I'll see if the installer can tell me
update:
the installer said:
we tried both the metra and the pac pieces. The engineers I have spoken with say it is common for these amps to fail due to being inside the doors
I've never had the SUB's go out on me with the stock head unit, just my CD payer did not work and I wanted some modern interfaces, this is beginning to be a nightmare
If they were correctly wired, you can try cleaning Ground 202, as suggested by Tsumi, checking Relay 45, and since you are there, Fuse 28. That's the circuit that powers both subwoofer amps. Take a look at the schematic:
Originally Posted by cvitullo
...update:
the installer said:
The engineers I have spoken with say it is common for these amps to fail due to being inside the doors.
I've never had the SUB's go out on me with the stock head unit, just my CD payer did not work and I wanted some modern interfaces, this is beginning to be a nightmare
What wouldn't be common is the 2 amps failing at the same time, especially when you mentioned they were fine before.
If they were correctly wired, you can try cleaning Ground 202, as suggested by Tsumi, checking Relay 45, and since you are there, Fuse 28. That's the circuit that powers both subwoofer amps. Take a look at the schematic:
What wouldn't be common is the 2 amps failing at the same time, especially when you mentioned they were fine before.
Man thanks so much for the info and the schematic, and the sanity check, I'll try and forward this to him
Just a quick update just in case anyone else has these issues.
I sent the great info from the posts here to my 'guy', he stated 'I have that schematic, I've been talking to the engineers in Australia that designed the interface and they said to him, those Bose amps in the doors have a problem cutting out because of the location"
so now 3 days and I'm listening to this 300 dollar system that sounds like an iphone speaker system, AN OLD ONE.
I've toyed with the idea of taking it somewhere else but I don't want to start this mess all over.
If he is unwilling to try any of the fixes, I would go to a different installer. Clearly he just wants more money out of you by installing new speakers and amps.
See if you can find someone local to help you out. You would want someone experienced with electronics, not necessarily audio experience.
If he is unwilling to try any of the fixes, I would go to a different installer. Clearly he just wants more money out of you by installing new speakers and amps.
See if you can find someone local to help you out. You would want someone experienced with electronics, not necessarily audio experience.
that's exactly what I'm thinking now, he told me, everything Crutchfield has suggested he's also disregarded and told me what they suggest will not work, and if I want new component subs, he'll have to rewire everything, or sell me a sub in the back.
I think it's gonna cost me no matter what, at this point Tsumi, I think you suggestion makes the most sense
thanks
No problem. As an FYI, excluding the amount of time it takes to take apart the console and reinstall it, I can have a $3 relay wired up in about 10-15 minutes. It really isn't that difficult to do at all.
If he is unwilling to try any of the fixes, I would go to a different installer. Clearly he just wants more money out of you by installing new speakers and amps.
See if you can find someone local to help you out. You would want someone experienced with electronics, not necessarily audio experience.
Originally Posted by cvitullo
Just a quick update just in case anyone else has these issues.
I sent the great info from the posts here to my 'guy', he stated "I have that schematic, I've been talking to the engineers in Australia that designed the interface and they said to him, those Bose amps in the doors have a problem cutting out because of the location"
so now 3 days and I'm listening to this 300 dollar system that sounds like an iphone speaker system, AN OLD ONE.
I've toyed with the idea of taking it somewhere else but I don't want to start this mess all over.
He doesn't even want to troubleshoot the problem. It definitely seems he's just trying to sell you more stuff than you originally wanted.
Just to double-check, is the BLUE WHITE from radio connected to BLUE on the PAC ROEM-VET1? If he wired "blue white" to "blue white" instead, your door subs will not turn on and then no real bass. I know you mentioned that your problem is not always present, but at this point I wouldn't trust the guy and troubleshooting based on assumptions is not good . Also, double-check the splicing to make sure it has a solid connection, so the possibility of an intermittent or marginal contact could be eliminated.
The above mentioned wire is the trigger that turns on the subwoofer amps when you turn on the headunit. It would be good if you could measure the voltage in this wire using a multimeter, with the headunit OFF and ON. It should go from 0v to 12v. Then you could verify if Relay 45 is working when the trigger is on, and verify as well if it is passing 12v to the subwoofer amps.
He might have the schematic, but he is not putting it to good use. Blaming it on the subwoofer amps, without verifying first if the amps are receiving power is shortsighted Besides, it is not likely that both of them are going belly up at the same time, especially when they were fine before.
OP, where are you located. I am doing an install Saturday using the PAC interface keeping all the Bose speakers for now. If you are in Southern California I can take a look and let you know what I think is wrong.
I have seen bad installs from "professional installers" that look like spaghetti. Bad but splices wires taped into improperly etc.
He doesn't even want to troubleshoot the problem. It definitely seems he's just trying to sell you more stuff than you originally wanted.
Just to double-check, is the BLUE WHITE from radio connected to BLUE on the PAC ROEM-VET1? If he wired "blue white" to "blue white" instead, your door subs will not turn on and then no real bass. I know you mentioned that your problem is not always present, but at this point I wouldn't trust the guy and troubleshooting based on assumptions is not good . Also, double-check the splicing to make sure it has a solid connection, so the possibility of an intermittent or marginal contact could be eliminated.
The above mentioned wire is the trigger that turns on the subwoofer amps when you turn on the headunit. It would be good if you could measure the voltage in this wire using a multimeter, with the headunit OFF and ON. It should go from 0v to 12v. Then you could verify if Relay 45 is working when the trigger is on, and verify as well if it is passing 12v to the subwoofer amps.
He might have the schematic, but he is not putting it to good use. Blaming it on the subwoofer amps, without verifying first if the amps are receiving power is shortsighted Besides, it is not likely that both of them are going belly up at the same time, especially when they were fine before.
the latest update:
Hey,
The only solution I have is to replace the Bose amps in the doors with an aftermarket amp. I am finding all kinds of issues online with the Bose amp and processor failing in these cars. To replace the Bose with a small hidden 4 channel amp your looking at around $350 for everything.
I'm calling around even if this ends up costing me, I don't trust this one man shop, who is best buds with all the audio experts and engineers OMG!
I emailed him back and asked him how much to put the system back the way it was and return the Sony unit he installed.....and the saga continues
the latest update:
Hey,
The only solution I have is to replace the Bose amps in the doors with an aftermarket amp...
Don't let him make you think that's the only solution you have. That is not "a solution" to your problem, that is walking in a different direction, which was not what you had in mind when you decided to upgrade your headunit.
What you have is an incompetent installer who is unwilling/unable to troubleshoot a problem, and while hiding behind excuses, wants to squeeze you selling you more stuff. I'm afraid of what would be his next step if he finds another problem when installing "the only solution"
Originally Posted by cvitullo
...I am finding all kinds of issues online with the Bose amp and processor failing in these cars...
I would be very surprised if both of your subwoofer amps and the Bose Signal Processor simultaneously decided to quit, especially when everything was fine before. The problem most probably is the trigger signal (supplied by the new headunit, by the way), that's in charge of turning ON those units, or something in its path. It could even be a marginal splicing, as previously mentioned.
Originally Posted by cvitullo
...I'm calling around even if this ends up costing me, I don't trust this one man shop, who is best buds with all the audio experts and engineers OMG!
I emailed him back and asked him how much to put the system back the way it was and return the Sony unit he installed.....and the saga continues
I wouldn't trust this guy either. As suggested above, try to find someone with basic electronic knowledge that could troubleshoot this situation. I don't know if you are willing to give it a try yourself. You would only need a basic multimeter and follow the simple procedures already mentioned above. We could help you go step by step.
04-16-2018, 11:33 AM
C5 Head unitl replaces now intermittet Subs ?
. Also, double-check the splicing to make sure it has a solid connection, so the possibility of an intermittent or marginal contact could be eliminated.
