Adding a sub to existing enclosure
04-22-2018, 02:00 AM
#1
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Adding a sub to existing enclosure
Wanting more out of my system. This may be a dumb question, would it be ineffective for me to cut out another space for an additional sub? JL 10Tw3 in there now, I would add another. And probably more power. Kenwood KAC 900.5 right now.
just curious is they need to be evenly spaced or if side by side would suffice. I’m pretty sure there is enough airspace in the box.
Last edited by Megatronss; 04-22-2018 at 02:01 AM.
04-22-2018, 08:10 AM
#2
Race Director
They don't NEED to be evenly spaced, but you will probably not get what you'e looking for from it. Just buy a new box and don't be a cheapest. This is a vette with JL products, not a Civic with Pyles.
04-22-2018, 01:52 PM
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04-23-2018, 11:17 AM
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Le Mans Master
Shallow mount JLs (TW series) don't require much "airspace" at all. 2 x 10TW3s would hammer pretty good in a small car like a vette. I know this because I run 2 x 10TWs in my F150 right now. I only have them on 200W in a sealed box and they sound GREAT. Very clean/precise/tight bass.
Concern: You said you want "more." What kind of "more" are we talking about? I'm very familiar with the 10W3V3s as I used to run them (2 of them) in my cobra. On 500W they hammered pretty good. Enough for 129 db's. That's getting it for 2 10s on a small amp. Are you wanting to knock fillings out? Or just more volume (bass) than you currently have? You mentioned a 900x5. How much of that is for the sub channel?
Concern: You said you want "more." What kind of "more" are we talking about? I'm very familiar with the 10W3V3s as I used to run them (2 of them) in my cobra. On 500W they hammered pretty good. Enough for 129 db's. That's getting it for 2 10s on a small amp. Are you wanting to knock fillings out? Or just more volume (bass) than you currently have? You mentioned a 900x5. How much of that is for the sub channel?
04-23-2018, 11:31 AM
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Thanks! In terms of airspace, talking more about that box than the car. Curious on spacing and if the box needs to be partitioned.
the Kenwood is sending 600 to the sub channel. But it’s a Kenwood.
that 129 dB is more of what I am wanting. When turned up the type of bass you can hear from down the street!
the Kenwood is sending 600 to the sub channel. But it’s a Kenwood.
that 129 dB is more of what I am wanting. When turned up the type of bass you can hear from down the street!
04-23-2018, 01:29 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Still, 300W is usually plenty to drive even the most serious subs. The 10TW3 has the most "excursion" for all of JL's shallow subs...except for the new TW5. Impressive sub. http://www.jlaudio.com/13tw5v2-2-car...-drivers-92182. That means of all the shallow subs, they will "hit the hardest" when powered and housed per spec. Downside is they only come in a "13 inch." So you're kind of stuck with 2 x 10TW3s unless you buy a new box and start over.
Food for thought, if you choose the new box route, a SINGLE 10" W7AE will crush your lungs with 135+ db's. It will live a long happy life on 300W RMS. http://www.jlaudio.com/10w7ae-3-car-...-drivers-92114 That's what I'm installing in my ZO6.
Food for thought, if you choose the new box route, a SINGLE 10" W7AE will crush your lungs with 135+ db's. It will live a long happy life on 300W RMS. http://www.jlaudio.com/10w7ae-3-car-...-drivers-92114 That's what I'm installing in my ZO6.