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I needed subs in my C5 Vert, but I learned with my previous Mustang convertibles that it is hard to get decent bass in a convertible. I didn't want to put them in the trunk and have them blocked by the top when it is down.
I found that JL Audio makes a Stealthbox for the C6 that puts the subs behind the seats in the "waterfall". I called them and they couldn't confirm if it would fit the C5. JL Audio SB-GM-C6CONV/8W3v3
So I called Mark at VetteNuts and commissioned him to make a version for the C5. They happened to have a C5 Vert in their shop, so they used that to fab it up. A couple months later and this is what I have:
Obviously, the top goes in and out without any issues. I'm pretty happy with it. The subs are only 8" sealed so it's not mind blowing but definitely adds more bass than the door speakers (JL C5-650 components). Remote bass **** is a must.
It ended up costing about as much as 2 of the VetteNuts trunk corner sub boxes, which is what I probably would have gotten if I didn't get this.
Looks good but you still don't have the bass you would if you'd of kept it in the doors. I have 8 inch Deaf Bonce w-80s in my door and they hit pretty hard for door speakers. Way better then 6.5 component speakers. I also have Infinity Kappa mids and DD tweets in my doors. I went with JL Audio 5.25 C2's behind the seats. Sounds amazing and looks stock.
Looks good but you still don't have the bass you would if you'd of kept it in the doors. I have 8 inch Deaf Bonce w-80s in my door and they hit pretty hard for door speakers. Way better then 6.5 component speakers. I also have Infinity Kappa mids and DD tweets in my doors. I went with JL Audio 5.25 C2's behind the seats. Sounds amazing and looks stock.
My 6.5” components in the door seem quite bass heavy; way more than in any other vehicle I’ve had them in. I suspect it is due to all the airspace in the doors.
I considered Illusion Audio 8” components and several 6x9 sets. I’m still considering them. But these are fine for now. I literally have a hard time toning down the bass from the doors.
Just my opinion, but I don't agree putting subs in the doors of a corvette UNLESS you're able to reinforce the metal in the door. Any legit performing sub will vibrate the sheet metal to hell and back. Even a bass heavy 6.5 can cause the adapters/sheet metal to flex and move. And it sounds like a dreadful racket when it does.
IJ, do you have any tuning or EQ ability for individual speakers? Do you know what your speaker crossovers are set to? It sounds like you may have full signal going to them which means they're playing too deep. I like rolling my sub off pretty sharply at 100 Hz and having the mids pick up roughly at 80ish Hz. You don't want the woofers and subs playing the same frequencies as you'll hear the "bass heavy" scenario you're dealing with.
Just my opinion, but I don't agree putting subs in the doors of a corvette UNLESS you're able to reinforce the metal in the door. Any legit performing sub will vibrate the sheet metal to hell and back. Even a bass heavy 6.5 can cause the adapters/sheet metal to flex and move. And it sounds like a dreadful racket when it does.
IJ, do you have any tuning or EQ ability for individual speakers? Do you know what your speaker crossovers are set to? It sounds like you may have full signal going to them which means they're playing too deep. I like rolling my sub off pretty sharply at 100 Hz and having the mids pick up roughly at 80ish Hz. You don't want the woofers and subs playing the same frequencies as you'll hear the "bass heavy" scenario you're dealing with.
Fronts are high passed 80hz 24db/octave. Subs are low passed same specs. I've adjusted the frequency and slope all over and the doors are just bass heavy. Some resonate frequency or something I suspect from such a large volume of air behind the doors.
If you have an equalizer, what is it lower frequency settings (20,31,40,60,80)? If any of those settings are set to +6db or more than the average overall curve, your crossover may still send some bass to the door speakers depending on crossover slope which I see is at 24db octave. You may consider reducing your 40-60 frequencies on the eq by 2db & that may make a noticeable difference in the amount of bass that is being sent to the door speakers. Good to see some sound guys in this thread. I am passionate about it & have been heavily involved in the industry for the last 32 years. Good luck.
If you have an equalizer, what is it lower frequency settings (20,31,40,60,80)? If any of those settings are set to +6db or more than the average overall curve, your crossover may still send some bass to the door speakers depending on crossover slope which I see is at 24db octave. You may consider reducing your 40-60 frequencies on the eq by 2db & that may make a noticeable difference in the amount of bass that is being sent to the door speakers. Good to see some sound guys in this thread. I am passionate about it & have been heavily involved in the industry for the last 32 years. Good luck.
I run flat EQ settings. I’m crossing over at 100 HZ now and it seems better.
I replaced the JL 8W3V3 subs with Pioneer shallow mount 8’s. They are made for smaller boxes and it sounds more linear now.
It really is just no contest tho. My Jeep SRT-8 has 4 old tank-like Slash amps, 0 gauge wires, big 3, 10 farad cap, 2000+ watts RMS, 11 channels, Logic7 surround sound processor, 14 speakers including a center channel (all speakers except rears are actively crossed over), fiberglass a-pillars, center channel pod and reinforced door panels with 8” midbasses, 3 bass control ***** (bass, mid bass, Epicenter), and 13.5” subs in a giant ported box. It sounds pretty good.
I run flat EQ settings. I’m crossing over at 100 HZ now and it seems better.
I replaced the JL 8W3V3 subs with Pioneer shallow mount 8’s. They are made for smaller boxes and it sounds more linear now.
It really is just no contest tho. My Jeep SRT-8 has 4 old tank-like Slash amps, 0 gauge wires, big 3, 10 farad cap, 2000+ watts RMS, 11 channels, Logic7 surround sound processor, 14 speakers including a center channel (all speakers except rears are actively crossed over), fiberglass a-pillars, center channel pod and reinforced door panels with 8” midbasses, 3 bass control ***** (bass, mid bass, Epicenter), and 13.5” subs in a giant ported box. It sounds pretty good.
Umm...ya think? You're audio spoiled like me. Took me over 15 grand to get my ZO6 to sound better than my truck that runs 1 amp and everything passive.
VetteNuts custom C5 waterfall sub box
