Head Unit Details
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
From: Boise ID
Head Unit Details
Looking at the Clarion VRX925, pretty neat...
Anyhow jsut about any head unit has the following:
1. +/+ Always on
2. +/- Switched on
3. -/- System Ground
4. 0/i Illumination
For those that have installed a head unit:
1. Where all the above available
2. What condition are the power leads in... good connections or should I plan on running my own leads for a strong clean source.
I plan on running Fiber from the head unit to the processor, so Noise may not be a problem, but I want to plan for it.
Brian
Anyhow jsut about any head unit has the following:
1. +/+ Always on
2. +/- Switched on
3. -/- System Ground
4. 0/i Illumination
For those that have installed a head unit:
1. Where all the above available
2. What condition are the power leads in... good connections or should I plan on running my own leads for a strong clean source.
I plan on running Fiber from the head unit to the processor, so Noise may not be a problem, but I want to plan for it.
Brian
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 452
Likes: 158
From: Newark, DE
Re: Head Unit Details (brianw21)
Usually, all those leads go to a stock radio, so they should all be behind the old radio.
The ground lead is most important in terms of connection quality. It needs to be attached to a ground fairly close to the head unit. The best place is usually under a bolt on the firewall. Use a spade connector. Make sure the connection is to bare metal on the firewall. You may have to file away a little paint to get a clear spot.
The power lead only needs to be re-run if your head unit is pulling a lot of power. I really can't think of any head unit powerful enough to make that necessary. Just use the power lead that was already there.
If you can't find the old switched power or dimmer leads, wire the switched power to the "on" terminal on the ignition switch and wire the dimmer lead to the "on" terminal on the headlight switch. The kind of wire you use here isn't important. They're both high-impedance inputs, so very little current flows. Use something nice and thin so its easy to run the wire.
The ground lead is most important in terms of connection quality. It needs to be attached to a ground fairly close to the head unit. The best place is usually under a bolt on the firewall. Use a spade connector. Make sure the connection is to bare metal on the firewall. You may have to file away a little paint to get a clear spot.
The power lead only needs to be re-run if your head unit is pulling a lot of power. I really can't think of any head unit powerful enough to make that necessary. Just use the power lead that was already there.
If you can't find the old switched power or dimmer leads, wire the switched power to the "on" terminal on the ignition switch and wire the dimmer lead to the "on" terminal on the headlight switch. The kind of wire you use here isn't important. They're both high-impedance inputs, so very little current flows. Use something nice and thin so its easy to run the wire.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,667
Likes: 849
From: New Jersey
Re: Head Unit Details (brianw21)
The C5 is a little trickey, as it does not have a switched 12V or illumination wire in the stcok radio harness. That is because it is actually controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module), which sends it a "Turn ON" or Turn OFF command thru the GM proprietary serial data communication bus. It also gets its display illumination dimming command thru this data bus. To install an aftermarket radio, you need to tap off a switched 12V line from somewhere else (find it in the passenger footwell fuse box), and get a "conventional" dimmed 12v illumination wire from the BCM (or one of the existing dash lamps, but only some will work with the new radio)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
From: Dallas City IL
Re: Head Unit Details (DSTJ99)
The newer Alpine HU's recommend a 10guage power feed for their 27 watts RMS :eek:
