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I'm gonna be attempting to make a fiberglass box. I'm thinking I will be able to fit a pair of 8's or a single 12. I'm leaning towards the single 12, but should I consider the 8's?
He hit it right on the money. 8" won't go as deep but will sound tighter and make more noise. 10"s and 12"s are good compromise sizes. Deep and tight. 15" gets to loose but hits real low. I'd try a pair of 10"s or one 12". Remember, a single good 10" will sound better than a pair of average 8" or a pair of 12" for that matter. Put your money into quality, not quantity. And a single speaker is more economical than two, needing in sum usually less power and costing usually less. :flag
Thanks for the input...I guess I need to figure out how much volume this box will give me. I listen to a variety of music, so I am looking for versitility from the sub.
I can personally recomend two 10's :thumbs: JL's are okay..MBQuarts are be even better (thats why the professionals put 'em in my 'Vette) :D Give them both a listen and make up your own mind :cheers:
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Re: Two 8" or One 12" Subwoofer? (dm3557)
I'd go with either two good 10"s or one good 12" for more broad frequincy ranges. You have plenty of airspace for either setup. The single 12" setup does very well in the C5 coups. :yesnod:
I'd go with either two good 10"s or one good 12" for more broad frequincy ranges. You have plenty of airspace for either setup. The single 12" setup does very well in the C5 coups. :yesnod:
I can attest to this. I have a 12" IDMAX driven by 750W and it sounds very good. :yesnod:
1. Look at what's going to fit!
2. Go to a GOOD install shop and talk to them. Tell them you want an f3 at about 45 HZ, and let them explain the physics of loudespeaker design.
3. Equalize it through an HU or dedicated unit, so you can tailor it.
4. Using your cabin gain of 12 dB, you'll even feel the "lower" octave, yes, even with a properly "aligned" pair of 8s.
REMEMBER If you move too much air (by stuffing a couple of 18s into your hatch), you loose your cabin gain, and turn your car INTO the resonator- you won't hear it, but your neighbors will.
Loudspeaker companies are also now building EXTREMELY INEFFICIENT DRIVERS(from loudspeaker design aspect), to fool you into buying their product. You can now buy a 12" woofer that requires 1000 watts, but still only puts out LESS THAN an spl of 100 at power, at its' resonance frequency. These same 12" subs which do this only move as much air as 8" subs. You can buy a well made woofer with a smooth response curve, that moves much more air for less money, and requires much less power to drive it. Sorry, but it's all in the physics.
Yep - but they wont fit in the rear corner compartments (as the magnet is too large and hits the side walls at the bottom) - thus you will need to go with a "W0" model unless you want to raise them up quite a bit..
I wanted to go with the W3s but I also wanted a somewhat flush appearance - thus the W0s were the compromise.. :D
BTW - they rock with a JL 500/1 Mono amp on them :yesnod:
REMEMBER If you move too much air (by stuffing a couple of 18s into your hatch), you loose your cabin gain, and turn your car INTO the resonator- you won't hear it, but your neighbors will.
It takes less to do this than you think. I've got two 12's in my extended cab Ranger (yes, yes, I know... Found On Road Dead, Fix Or Repair Daily, etc.) which has almost as much cubic space as a Vette, and I get a resonator effect. My bottom end sucks until I open my windows.
The reason the top end subs are built to be really inefficient is because this helps reduce noise. This is the same reason pre-out voltages keep going up. There is a fixed noise voltage on the line. The less efficient the speaker is, the less you hear this noise voltage. By upping the power the speaker needs to produce sound, you effectively increase the signal-to-noise ratio.
It takes less to do this than you think. I've got two 12's in my extended cab Ranger (yes, yes, I know... Found On Road Dead, Fix Or Repair Daily, etc.) which has almost as much cubic space as a Vette, and I get a resonator effect. My bottom end sucks until I open my windows.
I have that problem also, my bottom end doesn't "suck," but it definately gets better when the windows are down. I wish I could find a way to get the subs in the cabin without losing so much space. Right now they are in the trunk and require a lot of power to get through the back seat. :cry