Cheap wiring stuff
Anybody ever used any of this stuff? Looks like quality stuff from the pics.
:)
Luke
Go with this place. It looks way more professional. And make sure you get twisted pair RCA cables, not coax. Twisted pair is a little more expensive, but has much better noise rejection at audio frequencies. Your RCAs can actually pick up a lot of noise because of the high impedance input at the amp. You probably spent a lot of money getting a good amp, don't screw up your sound quality trying to save $20 on some wiring.
BTW, what happened to the "I'm with stupid" smiley?
Ok, just went and checked prices on the Stinger stuff. Did I say $20? Well, its more like $60. Those stinger cables had better be made from 24K gold. Go with KnuConcepts. Its not worth that much extra and their stuff is probably nearly as good.
[Modified by GTLocke13, 9:49 AM 12/3/2002]

I've never seen twisted pair speaker wires before. You can make your own twisted pair interconnects by splitting the normal wires then braiding in a single 16 gauge speaker wire. It takes up a lot of time, but it looks good if you do it well and works well too.
I bought Lightning Audio wiring and power distribution from SoundDomain for very similar prices, if not slightly cheaper. I have also used Fosgate Twisted Pair RCA's with no noise problems, and they were only $20 for 16ft at BestBuy.
For power wire, I use 4ga welding cable from a local welding supply shop. It costs me .45 a foot (cheaper than "car audio" 8ga!), less if I buy in quantity, and works just as well as "car audio" cable, it's just a little less flexible.
RCAs, I buy ends from a variety of sources depending on cost and showiness I want - Radio Shack, SoundDomain, PartsExpress, etc. Then, I use 16 or 18 ga stranded wire from wherever it's on bulk sale, double it, clamp it in a vise, chuck the other ends into my power drill, and make my own twisted pair wiring. Run it in the car (easier to do since there are no large RCA ends to get in the way yet), then cut to EXACT length and solder on the RCA plugs in the car. There's true CUSTOM wiring.
BTW, with true twisted pair wiring, there is no need for shielding (shielding is useless in any case!), there cannot be noise issues from inductance, meaning you can run it alongside power cable as long as you want. I don't recommend it, but I've had to do it and proved it.
Battery terminals, if non-showy, then I use crimp ring terminals (to properly use them though, you NEED a good crimper, I use a hammer-crimper from Mac tools), and attach to battery posts with brass marine terminals from any auto parts store ($4 a pair).
If I need showy, I shop the local electronics warehouse store and SoundDomain, and choose based on price. Same with distribution blocks, fuseblocks, etc.
Good luck, I hope I save someone some money!
Sam
Now, none of this really applies to car audio. Car audio wiring is all high-current, low-voltage. This means that the magnetic fields are strong, but the electric fields are weak (current creates magnetic fields, voltage creates electric fields). For the best noise protection, a shielded twisted pair is the best you can get, but since electric fields aren't an issue, the shielding isn't really needed.
Customer satisfaction: 3 stars
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They shouldn't have screwed up in the first place, but at least they fixed it quickly.
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I was just curious if anyone had actually bought stuff from them. I know sometimes the the double whopper with cheese doesn't quite look as good as the advertisement when you get it. I just wasn't sure if anyone had actually ordered any of this stuff.
Luke










