Everyone,

This past summer, I tore the complete interior out of my C5 coupe, and did a custom audio install. I searched here on the forum for ideas and what works/didn't work for others, and I talked to quite a few people as well. The install was a complete success, and I've been enjoying it ever since. I did custom MDF mounts for the front component system, and I built my own sub box to go in the rear hatch area of the coupe. Life was good for a while.

However, I've recently had an opportunity to pull the subwoofer out of the car (I switched subs) and in doing so, I had the chance to drive the car
for a few days w/ no sub. Believe it or not, I think the sub is too 'boomy' for me, and it gave me pause and an idea on going back and optimizing my configuration for no sub.

Here's a rundown on what I currently have in the car - this setup has only one amp, and it's used for the sub. The component system (front) and
the rear speakers run off the built-in amp in the head unit.

Head Unit:Alpine CDA-7897 (20 watts RMS/50 watts peak x 4 channels)
Front Speakers: Eclipse 8062 component system (Continuous Power handling: 85w; Music Power handling 170w; frequency response 50hz - 22khz)
Rear Speakers: Infininty Reference 652i (used them on recommendation as good replacements for the rear Bose speakers)
Sub: Currently a Solo-Baric S12 L7 (Dual 2 ohm voice coils) / Previously a Boston Acoustics GS1200 (big difference there!)
Amp (for sub only): Alpine MRV-T407 (200w x 2 or 400w x 1)

For the most part, I've been satisfied w/ this config, but it really doesn't sound like what I think it should. I now want to pull the sub and the Alpine
amp that was powering the sub, and replace the amp with another Alpine Amp I have (new in box) and power the front components and the rear
speakers with the amp.

The amp I'm considering using is an Alpine MRV-F307 (120w x 4). It rates pretty good on epinions.com, and I'm planning on using it, as I got it for 0$ as part of some trade-out work. It's sitting on a shelf in my garage, new in the box, and is ready to go. I could probably do better on the amp, but I'm more concerned about the speakers at this point. I'd rather spend $$ on speakers, if that's where I need to focus my attention.

I guess I'm asking whether or not I should get different components for the front or different speakers for the rear. I reallize the speakers are a
mix/match, and if anything, I would think I should ditch the rear 2-way speakers for a woofer to go in the rears. A good friend of mine that used to
do audio installs said that I should use a woofer in place of the rear speakers to help complete the soundstage and go with good stuff for the fronts.

If you could change the front/rear speakers, what would you go with? I'm planning on keeping the HU and the amp, as they are both Alpine and are paid for! ;)

I want a good, well-rounded system that is capable of playing all kinds of music at medium to medium-high volume levels w/o distortion. I don't
really care for the bass-boom of hard-hitting rap music... I much prefer the accurate reproduction of the melody, instead. But, at times, I really like
to jam to some of the newer music, as well, and feel the bass, but not have it shake the entire car! ;)

Currently, with only the HU driving the component system, it distorts easily at 50-60% volume, and I think that is too early. I'm hoping that with the
amp driving the front components and rear speakers, they will be getting a lot more power, and will sound a lot better, and I'll see the potential of the speakers realized.

Eclipse is generally regarded as good equipment (or so I think), and I just think it should sound better than it does.

Thanks for any and all comments!!

 

You will have a lot of options with that amp. Powering just the speakers you have now will make a huge difference in there quality. I know the Infinity speakers like a decent amount of power.

I would recommend hooking up the amp first and seeing how that improves your current speakers. Since you would be rerunning all the wires to the speakers from the amp, you could change out the interiors in the future rather easily. Of course if you have the cash, might as well just do it all in one shot.

As for the sub, I and most agree that some type of sub is in order. Four 6.5's are not going to give decent low bass response. What kind of crossover were you using with the sub? I'm sure the amp had a low-pass. Try turning it to 60Hz or lower while reducing the amp's gain(If you already haven't)

If your gutting the whole system (Except HU) again I you should stick with the higher end speakers, Focal etc. One possibility is to use a tri-way method for the rears and power a sub off it. This converter basically splits the rear signal and sends highs to internals and lows to the sub, but its not as clean as using another amp.


[Modified by DSTJ99, 10:46 PM 1/12/2003]

 

Thanks for the reply. The amp I'm going to put in is pretty versatile, that is true. I guess I'll just swap the amp and re-wire the speakers and see how everything sounds. The Alpine amp I am using for the sub does have a low-pass filter on it, and I played around with all kinds of settings on it, but I never could get rid of the 'boomy' sound I didn't care for. I was thinking it should be tighter than it is, but that was the sub I was using. The SoloBaric is an awesome sub and after switching it out to listen to it, I knew right away my probelm was with the quality of the Boston Accoustics sub. The Solo gave me really good, tight bass, but with that guy in, it seems to 'overpower' the rest of the system. I'm thinking I'll eventually have to run 2 amps to get what I really need.

Can anyone recommend a 'super' amp that will run all 4 channels and a sub efficiently and not have to go to a 2-amp setup? That might be my final solution.

The eclipse component system I have up front has a crossover that I've got in the doors. What is the recommended setting for the crossovers? This is the first component system I've ever messed with, and I just left them a little 'left of center', as that seemed to sound pretty good. I'm all open to yanking the panels off and setting the crossovers again, if that's what is required to get better sound. :thumbs:

Thanks to any and all who read and reply to this thread! :cheers:


[Modified by AllCammedUp, 12:02 PM 1/19/2003]

 

I would change the front speakers, and go with a set of CDT HD series... I would exchange the rears for empty speaker pods (ditch the rears.)
Check out CDT's at http://www.thezeb.com
lots of times you can haggle the price with them...
I have the CDT HD's, and they are the best "budget components" (payed under $300) that I've ever heard. They do some things better than the high end stuff.

as far as the sub goes.. subs sound boomy when their box is too small...
I think a GREAT sound quality sub that still gets reasonably loud is the Image dynamics IDQ10. I ran one for a while in my vette, it was pretty good. It's not enough if you want to **** off your neighbor, but you can give yourself a headache with it pretty easily with only like... 250 watts. I doubt it would be as loud as your old L7.

I hear http://www.edesignaudio.com sells an E10k or E12k thats a killer deal, and many say very favorable in SPL and SQ... I haven't heard one.

For a PURE sound quality sub with not much bump, look into CDT's again. I have a pair of CDT-MS80's, and while they won't tickle your nose when they hit, they sound spectacular.

I would stick with the L7, since you have it already. Just turn it down, it wont overpower your music that way.

As far as perfect imaging.. in a car.. you want a time delay set up...

Or just use the balance..

Why not run the components up front at 120x2, and bridge the rear for the subwoofer?

This is where you want your crossovers on a component set:

Cheap 5.25: 90hz
Good 5.25: 80hz
Great 5.25: 70hz

Cheap 6.5: 70-80hz
Good 6.5: 70hz
Great 6.5: 60hz




[Modified by Nevermind, 10:17 AM 1/19/2003]

 

Many thanks for taking the time to make recommendations in your post. I will be trying several of the things you mention after I give the amp/speaker rewiring a shot. I hope that the sound improves, but I'll keep the speaker recommendations you make in my back pocket and try a set if I'm not satisfed after I re-wire the amp.

:cheers:

 

One thing I have found helped the sound drastically in previous cars was an in-dash EQ The 4.1 is a nice unit.

I will be starting a new system in the Vette in a few weeks and plan on going with an in-dash EQ. It was nice in my previous ride to be able to quickly adjust the tone of the mane speakers, and the gain on the sub. I think it will be especially nice in the Vette being that sound requirements for different frequencies will differ greatly between having the top on and the top off.

I know a lot of HUs have built in EQ features, not familiar with your specific Alpine, but I find them all to be inferior to a separate EQ, JMHO. Just some thing to consider if you want to tweek your sound.

 

I have a 5 channel PPI(Precision Power) amp and it is awesome. I am running the 4 channels to just front Dynaudio components and the sub channel to a JL stealthbox. It sounds great with all types of music, granted I do adjust the sub frequently depending on the type of music but it is very simple from my Pioneer HU. Hope this helps. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=473902

 

This is exactly what i am looking to do. I have some Infinity 60.5's on the way and will be getting a sub for the rear. I am having trouble deciding on an amp the will be strong enough to power the sub. Any recommendations?

 

The biggest problem I see in most installs is running the crossovers to high for the sub.

Get a good 3-way component set (like those reccomended) with a 6-7" driver. A good 3-way component set should be able to rock to 80-100hz. You will NEVER get the snap and kick from a 10"+ driver that you will with a 7-8" driver.

Get a good 3-way set, set the crossover at 100hz run 100-150watts to each side and enjoy. I would reccomend a 12" sub running at 400-500watts or a 10"sub running at 250-350 watts.

You really want to run the sub at it's peak power rating. Having the power for the dynamics in music is key. Otherwise those sharp kick drums sound rounded or muddy. Your sub shouldn't be crosed over higher than 100hz.... 80hz is prefered.

NTOE: If you go with the large motor subs (ala JL-W7) same rules apply, run them near thier rating.. I will be runing 1000watts to my W7. Big motors require TONS of power to sound accurate.

 

msuc5vette: The HU I'm using has a decent built-in EQ that I'll stick with. Unfortunately, the dash on the 'vette doesn't give me much room for an EQ with what I'm currently doing to the car.

I'm doing a NEO car jukebox install and am putting the wired remote in the dash with some custom brackets and the help of a very kind-hearted fellow forum member. I'm moving the HVAC controls to the bottom, and that's going to take up about all the room I've got. ;)

usarmyttt I wish my amp were 5 channel. I can do some channel bridging, but the amp is a 4-channel amp. I've learned a lot about audio install and componentry since going down this road, so I would probably pick a bit different equipment the next time around. ;) Thanks for the suggestion though! :)

[b]Ben01C5 and Brianw21[b]: Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to archive this post and return to it after I finish my install and use this as good information for equipment purchases going forward.

For all who are following this thread... I have got the 'new' Alpine amp wired up and pushing all of the speakers in the car, and just switching to the amp from the built-in amp in the HU made an amazing difference in how the existing Eclipse components (in the front) and the Infiniti (in the rear) sounds.

The system sounds very acceptable to me right now, and I'll continue to improve on it as I go. Thanks to everyone who has chimed in on this thread, as your experience and knowledge is really appreciated!

:cheers: :flag