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The PAC adapter is definitely defective. And of course out of warranty since I waited so long. I ordered a fuse tap and will be moving my remote ON to an acc fuse.
Just have a case of low energy this week. Hopefully I recover by this weekend.
I'm holding off on the box rebuild for now. Found a decent and comfortable seat position that will be fine for driving 2 or 3 times a week.
sound is so amazing and has me thinking of upgrading to more powerful amplifiers. It is plenty loud and clear, but you know, you can never have too much of a good thing.
No updates after the manual tuning. Just enjoying the sound. Really need a new PAC adapter. So next steps are:
1. New PAC
2. Remake box for better fit.
3. Replace 2 channel with 5 Channel and go full active and individual power for each sub.
No updates after the manual tuning. Just enjoying the sound. Really need a new PAC adapter. So next steps are:
1. New PAC
2. Remake box for better fit.
3. Replace 2 channel with 5 Channel and go full active and individual power for each sub.
Why individual power for each sub ? Is the sub signal stereo ? Are you going to have a divider in the box ?
I’ve seen a YT where the opening in the door which normally has a plastic/rubber insert was closed using a thick composite piece covered with deadener screwed to the door to create a sealed cavity behind the 10” to create a speaker cabinet.
I’ve seen a YT where the opening in the door which normally has a plastic/rubber insert was closed using a thick composite piece covered with deadener screwed to the door to create a sealed cavity behind the 10” to create a speaker cabinet.
Did you consider this?
I was able to get in contact with Marc from VetteNuts and he built me a Sub Pod for my Vert with a JL Audio 10w3 that sits in the Trunk. I actually received it today. I’m set for Sub now with my build.👍😀😀
I’ve seen a YT where the opening in the door which normally has a plastic/rubber insert was closed using a thick composite piece covered with deadener screwed to the door to create a sealed cavity behind the 10” to create a speaker cabinet.
Did you consider this?
I did, but the way the door panel is shaped, it did not work out.
Regarding sealing the door.... isn't this fruitless since the door isn't really sealed due to the window opening? Or is there still value in buttoning up that opening with a solid piece?
Door sealing - If you're going to move a lot of air with a 10", it is better to try to button it up as much as possible. If you are using a 6.5", then I don't think it matters as much. These opinions are based just on experience from working on different cars and listening to the results. Never and A/B test or used any instruments to measure output.
Thought I would update with what I ended up doing for the doors...
I used the factory rubber "plug" and traced out the profile and cut 1/4" HDPE with a jig saw. I ended up trimming up some areas to get a good fit. Then I placed it on the inside of the door panel and drilled holes appropriate for the self tapping 1/4-20 screws. On the drivers side I used silicon in between the door panel and the new HDPE plug when I screwed it together. After doing that, then using the sound deadening I realized that was likely overkill so I didn't do that on the passenger side. After crossing all of my fingers and testing the window, it worked just fine. The inner door panel also installed just fine.
It ain't pretty but it works, I wish I had a table router.... but then again nobody can see it so whatever
To get it in there I had to slide it up in this direction which was counter-intuitive at the time.
Thought I would update with what I ended up doing for the doors...
I used the factory rubber "plug" and traced out the profile and cut 1/4" HDPE with a jig saw. I ended up trimming up some areas to get a good fit. Then I placed it on the inside of the door panel and drilled holes appropriate for the self tapping 1/4-20 screws. On the drivers side I used silicon in between the door panel and the new HDPE plug when I screwed it together. After doing that, then using the sound deadening I realized that was likely overkill so I didn't do that on the passenger side. After crossing all of my fingers and testing the window, it worked just fine. The inner door panel also installed just fine.
It ain't pretty but it works, I wish I had a table router.... but then again nobody can see it so whatever
To get it in there I had to slide it up in this direction which was counter-intuitive at the time.
great to see this work out. Exactly what I was planning on doing (except for the silicone) next time I have the door panel off. Where did you source the HDPE from?
great to see this work out. Exactly what I was planning on doing (except for the silicone) next time I have the door panel off. Where did you source the HDPE from?
I looked everywhere and ended up at Amazon. I bought 2 of these:
Finally got the energy to get this started. Learned a lot when I did my C6 coupe and have applied that here.
System design: (to be uploaded later)
Door upgrade with sound deadner and 10" Kenwood for sub/midbass. The midrange will be an Infinity perfect 300m. 10 inch fit without a baffle. Deadner in inner and outer skin. I love midbass!! Driver door
sub box coming soon @madsonp
Lots of angles on the C7, plus a bit less room than the C6. Not making the final angle cut until the L8S are mocked up. UPS is late!!! Simple amp rack in the trunk.
Updates coming tomorrow.
By any chance, do you have the wiring diagram for the stock Bose Amplifier? I am struggling to find the wiring map and willing to know if I can use another Bose UQA model.
Why individual power for each sub ? Is the sub signal stereo ? Are you going to have a divider in the box ?
