Amp/speaker check
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 171
Likes: 68
Amp/speaker check
So I just snagged a package deal on an amp/speakers. Here's what I'm working with, just need a sanity check on the setup
**There will be a sub in this system, but on a separate amp, so I'm not gonna messy up the post w those details
Head unit: kenwood dmx958xr
Speakers: focal 165as3 - 4ohm speakers, 80w rms
Amp: JL jd400/4 - 4x channels at 75w rms @4ohm, 2x channels at 200w @4ohm bridged
Am I crazy for thinking it's better to bridge the channels for these component speakers than to only push 75w to them?
200w is a good bit more than the 80w that they are rated at, but I feel like I'd rather have more power and be judicious with the tuning/volume levels than have them slightly underpowered..
Thoughts? I'm stuck w this amp for now...got a great deal on the amp/speaker combo. Would like to make it work and pretty sure it'll be fine, just checking here with the folks in the know. It's been a long time since I've messed with car audio.
**There will be a sub in this system, but on a separate amp, so I'm not gonna messy up the post w those details
Head unit: kenwood dmx958xr
Speakers: focal 165as3 - 4ohm speakers, 80w rms
Amp: JL jd400/4 - 4x channels at 75w rms @4ohm, 2x channels at 200w @4ohm bridged
Am I crazy for thinking it's better to bridge the channels for these component speakers than to only push 75w to them?
200w is a good bit more than the 80w that they are rated at, but I feel like I'd rather have more power and be judicious with the tuning/volume levels than have them slightly underpowered..
Thoughts? I'm stuck w this amp for now...got a great deal on the amp/speaker combo. Would like to make it work and pretty sure it'll be fine, just checking here with the folks in the know. It's been a long time since I've messed with car audio.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 911
Likes: 446
From: New Brunswick, Canada
So I just snagged a package deal on an amp/speakers. Here's what I'm working with, just need a sanity check on the setup
**There will be a sub in this system, but on a separate amp, so I'm not gonna messy up the post w those details
Head unit: kenwood dmx958xr
Speakers: focal 165as3 - 4ohm speakers, 80w rms
Amp: JL jd400/4 - 4x channels at 75w rms @4ohm, 2x channels at 200w @4ohm bridged
Am I crazy for thinking it's better to bridge the channels for these component speakers than to only push 75w to them?
200w is a good bit more than the 80w that they are rated at, but I feel like I'd rather have more power and be judicious with the tuning/volume levels than have them slightly underpowered..
Thoughts? I'm stuck w this amp for now...got a great deal on the amp/speaker combo. Would like to make it work and pretty sure it'll be fine, just checking here with the folks in the know. It's been a long time since I've messed with car audio.
**There will be a sub in this system, but on a separate amp, so I'm not gonna messy up the post w those details
Head unit: kenwood dmx958xr
Speakers: focal 165as3 - 4ohm speakers, 80w rms
Amp: JL jd400/4 - 4x channels at 75w rms @4ohm, 2x channels at 200w @4ohm bridged
Am I crazy for thinking it's better to bridge the channels for these component speakers than to only push 75w to them?
200w is a good bit more than the 80w that they are rated at, but I feel like I'd rather have more power and be judicious with the tuning/volume levels than have them slightly underpowered..
Thoughts? I'm stuck w this amp for now...got a great deal on the amp/speaker combo. Would like to make it work and pretty sure it'll be fine, just checking here with the folks in the know. It's been a long time since I've messed with car audio.
Personally, I think that if you overpower them at 200W, all you're going to do is end up blowing speakers, no matter how judicious you are with tuning and volume levels. You would be better off running them at 75W, which is very close to the 80W rating on the speakers and tuning your system to get the best performance with that.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 171
Likes: 68
Ha ok cool, thanks for the advice. Still working on sourcing a sub/amp combo, so it's going to be a bit til I get to the install. Not in a huge rush here.
Will report back with results! Hopefully the install goes smooth. Probably going to need to find/fab mounts for the 6.5 speaker in the stock 8" woofer spot, but hopefully that won't be too bad. No doubt I'll be coming back here along the way with more questions
Will report back with results! Hopefully the install goes smooth. Probably going to need to find/fab mounts for the 6.5 speaker in the stock 8" woofer spot, but hopefully that won't be too bad. No doubt I'll be coming back here along the way with more questions
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,458
Likes: 26
75 (real world) watts RMS per channel in the small cabin of a Corvette is LOUD!
300 (real world) watts RMS mono to a sub is even LOUDER!
My C2 stereo has 75 watts RMS going to my kick panel separates, 70 watts RMS going to my corner windshield up-firing tweeters and 300 watts RMS going to my 12" sub in a sealed box behind me.
That's 590 (real world) watts RMS total. Plenty!
I went for sound quality, not just Boom Boom Boom.
Make sure you have an adequate fuse at you battery equal to the total amps your going to draw.
Here's a wiring chart to help you pick the proper size gauge of power for your amp draw.
Trust me, the length of wire you're going to need is usually longer than you think when you finally have it snaked through your car.
https://bigjeffaudio.com/pages/ampli...-XGNJxQWF4Utfa
Yes, study all you can before you start installing.
FWIW, I used 2 gauge wire for my install since I had to go from my battery in the engine bay to a distribution block behind me where I have my amps.
Hope this helps.
300 (real world) watts RMS mono to a sub is even LOUDER!
My C2 stereo has 75 watts RMS going to my kick panel separates, 70 watts RMS going to my corner windshield up-firing tweeters and 300 watts RMS going to my 12" sub in a sealed box behind me.
That's 590 (real world) watts RMS total. Plenty!
I went for sound quality, not just Boom Boom Boom.
Make sure you have an adequate fuse at you battery equal to the total amps your going to draw.
Here's a wiring chart to help you pick the proper size gauge of power for your amp draw.
Trust me, the length of wire you're going to need is usually longer than you think when you finally have it snaked through your car.
https://bigjeffaudio.com/pages/ampli...-XGNJxQWF4Utfa
Yes, study all you can before you start installing.
FWIW, I used 2 gauge wire for my install since I had to go from my battery in the engine bay to a distribution block behind me where I have my amps.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 171
Likes: 68
Good info there, thanks for that link. Definitely not trying to be heard down the street, just want good quality. Still accumulating everything, but I feel like I'm on the right path here
Appreciate it, gonna be a project, but it's been a while since I've had one so will be nice to start tearing into things
Appreciate it, gonna be a project, but it's been a while since I've had one so will be nice to start tearing into things
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,458
Likes: 26
Good info there, thanks for that link. Definitely not trying to be heard down the street, just want good quality. Still accumulating everything, but I feel like I'm on the right path here
Appreciate it, gonna be a project, but it's been a while since I've had one so will be nice to start tearing into things
Appreciate it, gonna be a project, but it's been a while since I've had one so will be nice to start tearing into things
Also study about clipping points in sequence of all of your components ( head unit, equalizer/line driver, active crossover and then to the amps so they ALL clip at the same time.
Intrigued now...... aren't you?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 439
From: Spring Texas
I would run 75x2 to the 6.5 woofers/midbass directly *adjust crossover as needed.
then 75x2 to the crossovers and then to the mid and tweeter.
more dedicated power, more adjustment available. Everyone's ears are different.
then 75x2 to the crossovers and then to the mid and tweeter.
more dedicated power, more adjustment available. Everyone's ears are different.
