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okay , trying to lay out my amp rack ...amp in the middle and I am going to have a capacitor...can I run for balance ?? you know , one on each side ????I know what your thinking, why right ...for looks unless someone else has a better idea ...I just dont want to put the amp and the capacitor and not have balance ....so would it work or look stupid ..please help time is running short
okay , heres what I am going to run off the Bose HU
1) sub Rockford Fosgate RFP 4210
2) Amp Rockford Fosgate 501bd
Keep in mind this is just mostly for looks and of course to have a little more bass , not looking for the killer system as I could never keep up with the ever changing audio
That amp puts out pretty decent power and since it is a mono class d amp, it is pretty efficient. I'll almost guarantee you won't have dimming head lights. It only has a 50 amp fuse, so it should never draw more than that. The stock alternator and wiring will be fine as well.
I'm running over 1400 watts and had 3 subs at one point w/out a flicker.
Caps are a waste of money like Kale said. Also IMO they don't look good displayed on an amp rack unless they are "cool" like the ones that mount flat with the digital read out on top.
Its your money though. For the price of 2 caps, you could buy a set of speakers to compliment your new sub.
A cap wont give you better bass, and that amp wont suck enough power to dim your lights. you are fine without it. if you do add one anyway, keep in mind it is 100% aesthetics, and expect no gains of any kind.
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Re: Can you run 2 capacitors????? (Kale)
A cap wont give you better bass, and that amp wont suck enough power to dim your lights. you are fine without it. if you do add one anyway, keep in mind it is 100% aesthetics, and expect no gains of any kind.
:iagree: There are times when a cap may be useful but your situation isn't one of them.
you drive around a minute (cap fully charged) and turn on your heavy bass CD.
Well, the lights arent going to dim, because the cap is drained, nd it supplies the power to the amps. But now your cap is drained, your electrical system now has a powerful amplifier to deal with AND it has to charge a capacitor. This seems like a bad thing to me.
I didn't plan on a cap for my install, but ended up getting one.
I am running a 1000/1 (100amps), 450/4 ( 60 Amps) and a 300/2 ( 40amps). So at peak power that is about a 200 amp draw.
I upgraded to a CS-144 250 amp alternator.
I upgraded to a Sprial Gel battery.
When a heavy bass section hit, I was seeing a voltage fluctuation from 14 volts to 12.8 volts. This was at full tilt max volume 20hz. I wasn't discharging the battery, but there wasn't much left in the power system for headlights.
I added a cap, and the headlight dimming is cured.. but only for loud kickdrum material.. long transiet stuff still saps the voltage to 12.8. The fluctuation you see in your headlights is the voltage drop from 14 volts to 12.8 or 12.
I will be upgrading to a yellow top here soon, to eliminate it further.
Caps usually only help when you need more transient power...I noticed a huge difference in the level I could turn my stereo up with the cap...without it my voltage was dropping way too low(around 11 volts) because my stock alternator puts out 12.5 volts(btw is there any way to raise that?) and with the cap it never hits below 12. The amp doesn't shut down any more on peaks and it plays a lot louder.
I had upgraded the magic 3 wires and had a 105 amp alternator before I put the cap in. So in my position it helped a whole lot.
Total system rms power is 570 watts. :cheers:
Oh yeah, go with two caps...they would look cool flanking the amp. :yesnod:
I had upgraded the magic 3 wires and had a 105 amp alternator before I put the cap in. So in my position it helped a whole lot.
Total system rms power is 570 watts. :cheers:
Gotta go with Kale. The caps are useless.
If you're having problems, fix the problems, don't band-aid with caps. I thought my problem was not enough power to the rear or too small of a gauge... turns out the problem was a ground with too high of a resistance (1500 ohms). Found a better ground 3 inches away, 5 ohms and now the alternator whine is GONE! :cool:
So my advice is: take the time to fix the underlying problem, IF you even have them. DO NOT use caps to fix something that basic troubleshooting with a DMM could solve.
-keith
I had upgraded the magic 3 wires and had a 105 amp alternator before I put the cap in. So in my position it helped a whole lot.
Total system rms power is 570 watts. :cheers:
Gotta go with Kale. The caps are useless.
If you're having problems, fix the problems, don't band-aid with caps. I thought my problem was not enough power to the rear or too small of a gauge... turns out the problem was a ground with too high of a resistance (1500 ohms). Found a better ground 3 inches away, 5 ohms and now the alternator whine is GONE! :cool:
So my advice is: take the time to fix the underlying problem, IF you even have them. DO NOT use caps to fix something that basic troubleshooting with a DMM could solve.
-keith
What? I upgraded the magic three and was having problems! I used 2 gauge wire, Lightning Audio hardware, had a great ground, and I still was not getting enough power. I had a good power and ground I just didn't have the amperage from my alternator to keep the amp running at high volumes. My ground resistance is only 6 ohms. The only time it does it now is with the ignition off, but I never listen to it like that. The cap fixed everything. So how is that useless??? :confused:
There was no underlying problem in my case...I just needed a little more current on the peaks than my power system could supply.
:cheers:
TheWacoKid, If your alternator is putting out 12.5 volts, its voltage regulator is defective because they are designed for 14.7 volts. You should observe on your dash voltmeter 14.3 volts (or close to this) when cold and the voltage will drop to 13.3 (or close to it) hot. There is about 0.3 volts drop across the ignition switch contacts and the voltmeter reads after the ign sw. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals and compare it to the dash voltmeter.
To answer your question you can run two caps. They have to be run parallel, ie. + to + and - to -
A cap can be a benefit, but I would try the system w/o first and see how you like it.
If you were planning on running a 1 farad cap, you can run two .5 farad caps in parallel to total 1 farad. The rule of thumb is 1 farad per 1000 watts on the sub. This point as you can already see will be disputed by many.
From my experience I have only used a cap in one system, it did make a difference in the electrical behavior of the car, but didn't notice anything on the sound. For very low quick punches you might see a difference. Because the internal resistance of a good cap is so low it will charge very quickly, so I don't buy the arguement that it is a drain on the alternator. I would say it will actually work as a buffer for the alternator if anything.