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Can anyone give me some advice on setting the crossover points on my Alpine CDA_7998?
I'm driving MB Quart QSD216s off a JL 300/2 and a 10W2-v2 in a stealthbox off a JL 250. MQ Quart specs say frequency response is 35 - 32K. I couldn't find anything on the 10W2.
Where should I be setting the crossover filter points? What about the slope? Heck, I could probably use a general system tuning tutorial.
I like a 12db slope on components, and 12db slope on subs that do well above 80hz. For subs that dont, I like a 24db slope. I would go with 12 with the JL sub
Can anyone give me some advice on setting the crossover points on my Alpine CDA_7998?
I'm driving MB Quart QSD216s off a JL 300/2 and a 10W2-v2 in a stealthbox off a JL 250. MQ Quart specs say frequency response is 35 - 32K. I couldn't find anything on the 10W2.
Where should I be setting the crossover filter points? What about the slope? Heck, I could probably use a general system tuning tutorial.
:jester
I discovered that the internal crossovers on the Alpine is not enough. There is still some "bleed" into the cut off frequencies. You really need to get an audio test CD. I've got one you can borrow if you like. :cheers:
A good rule of thumb is 80Hz high and low pass. However, the Alpine crossovers set at 80 Hz will allow the components to play down to about 60Hz and the sub to play up to about 100Hz. Not good.
I think it has to do with the slope. 12DB gives you a good fall off, keeps the low frequencies low enough. Set it to 24db to be "safe" if you'd like...
12DB on my amp at 80hz sounds exactly like 12db on the HU at 80hz.
ugh... I have the 7998 head, too... and the cross points are just a pain.
I ended up negating them and using the linear xover's on the amp.
2 xovers just confuse things.
Using a the crossover on the amp for the components AND the amp for the sub still gives me two crossovers to fool with, right?
Lars - I see your point about the cutoffs not being clean and think it is a function of this slope business. The higher the slope the faster and more drastic the cutoff. 24db is as aggressive as it gets, but is still not hard cutoff point at a particular frequency. Anyone know how the cutoff's on the amps work? Are they equivalent to the 24 db slope or something even more more aggressive. Setting the high and low pass filters with this sloped cutoff, it seems there will always be some overlap/bleed. Either that or you set one at 80 and one at 60 and you're losing some sound in the 60 - 80 range - not good.
Is it that big of a problem to have a small range of frequencies being output by the components and the sub? Can you possibly tone down the overlapped frequencies with the EQ? Then again, I'd guess the HU EQ isn't granular enough to manipulate just the 60 - 80 range.
ugh... I have the 7998 head, too... and the cross points are just a pain.
I ended up negating them and using the linear xover's on the amp.
2 xovers just confuse things.
Using a the crossover on the amp for the components AND the amp for the sub still gives me two crossovers to fool with, right?
allow me to clarify... 2 crossovers in the same line... meaning, the xover on the head unit was causing confusion with the xover on the amp. er, more accuratly, confusing me. :D
allow me to clarify... 2 crossovers in the same line... meaning, the xover on the head unit was causing confusion with the xover on the amp. er, more accuratly, confusing me. :D
Ah, thanks for the clarification. I have bypassed the amps crossover. I ended up setting the sub xover at 100 and the component crossover at 80, both with 12 db slope. Sounds much cleaner.
I've been toying w/ the xovers a bit and although I think crossing them at 80 Hz or something like 60 and 100 is the "right" think to do, it's not sounding very good.
Cutting the lows to the MB Quarts really drops the overall bass level. Both amp gains are all the way up. The HU volume maxes out at "35" and although it's LOUD, everthing sounds good. The sub just doesn't seem to really start pumpin' until the volume level gets to 28 - 30. If I recall my old car stereo tech, this was the purpose of the "loudness" button - to boost the low volume bass and roll it back as the overall volume increased. As it stands now, I'm doing this manually by adjust the static bass boost. As you can imagine, this gets old and I'm sure there is a better way to do this.