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I am upgrading my door speakers to CDT 6s. Can I use the Bose crossover and simply connect to the CDTs or will I have to make up some kind of adapter cable to use the CDT crossover?
I am upgrading my door speakers to CDT 6s. Can I use the Bose crossover and simply connect to the CDTs or will I have to make up some kind of adapter cable to use the CDT crossover?
You will need to make a new mounting plate. Use the stock Bose door assembly as a pattern.
Thanks for the response. I already have adapter plates. I'm trying to figure out how to hook up the CDTs. The original Bose cable from the head unit to the Bose crossover has 6 wires. I'm new to all this audio stuff and the CDT crossover simply has a +in and -in. I'm trying to figure out which 2 wires to use and what to do the 4 extra leads.
Thanks for the response. I already have adapter plates. I'm trying to figure out how to hook up the CDTs. The original Bose cable from the head unit to the Bose crossover has 6 wires. I'm new to all this audio stuff and the CDT crossover simply has a +in and -in. I'm trying to figure out which 2 wires to use and what to do the 4 extra leads.
Ah. What you want to do can be done, but the stock HU doesn't really have enough power to push these CDTs to their full potential. The 3.5" speaker in each door assembly is run from the HU power. The remaining wires are signal and power to the Bose amps and 7" woofer. Just pull out the 3.5" speakers and use the wires running to them.
You REALLY do not want to run those speakers off of the factory head unit. Unless you keep the volumne real low you are going to blow them before you know it. You are much better off using an amp to power them.
Ah. What you want to do can be done, but the stock HU doesn't really have enough power to push these CDTs to their full potential. The 3.5" speaker in each door assembly is run from the HU power. The remaining wires are signal and power to the Bose amps and 7" woofer. Just pull out the 3.5" speakers and use the wires running to them.
So, what you are saying is the module in the stock Bose speaker unit is not a crossover at all but an amp for the 7" woofer? If so, would it be possible to run the mid-range signal thru the bose amp into the CDT crossover to gain more power? If not, what do you suggest to drive the CDTs properly?
You REALLY do not want to run those speakers off of the factory head unit. Unless you keep the volumne real low you are going to blow them before you know it. You are much better off using an amp to power them.
Thanks for the reply, but I'm getting a little confused. Leolufse (above) says the stock HU doesn't have enough power to drive the CDTs and you seem to thing it has too much power, or am I misunderstanding your response.
You REALLY do not want to run those speakers off of the factory head unit. Unless you keep the volumne real low you are going to blow them before you know it. You are much better off using an amp to power them.
Thanks for the reply, but I'm getting a little confused. Leolufse (above) says the stock HU doesn't have enough power to drive the CDTs and you seem to thing it has too much power, or am I misunderstanding your response.
No, Eat Rice is saying the same thing as I am. The stock HU doesn't have enough power to run the CDTs properly. The 7" woofers are run from the Bose amps in the doors. However, those woofers are 1-ohm and the Bose amps don't make enough power either.
If you want to keep the stock HU, you really will want to ad an amp making anywhere between 75-150 watts per channel, depending on what model speaker you are talking about. Do you have a link to the specs of the speaker/component set?
You got yourself a very nice set of components, they deserve to powered correctly :yesnod:
I'd really like to see you replace the Bose HU as well as ad an amp, but if you want to just ad an amp to the stock HU, there are plenty of posts archived here that you can search for. If it were me (and I was spending your money), I'd pick up a Alpine 9815 HU, and a JL Audio 300/2 amp.
Other reasonable amps include the Alpine T320, MTX 342, US Acoustics USB 2150, JBL 180.2. For ease of installation, I'd look at the MTX 342. They make more power than they claim, and have the "smart engage" high level inputs, which makes it a snap to add to a factory HU.
Leolufse has it correct just let me explain one thing. Underpowering a speaker will in most cases blow the speaker faster than underpowering. When you underpower a speaker you will overdrive the HU to get the volumne you want from the speakers. Most people think the speakers can handle turning the volumne up the high but what you are really doing is clipping the HU. Clipping the HU is causing electiral distortion to be sent to your speakers.....very bad. That is what blows them. Just thought you would like to know that. But Leo has you on the right track I would defiently use an aftermarket and HU.
Oh boy, I'm in way over my head now. As I said, I'm new to all this audio stuff and I thought I could just swap the speakers and be done with it. It would be a big deal to install an amp in the trunk and run power to the amp and wires to the door. Getting back to my original question, could I run the mid range wires thru the Bose amp in the door then into the CDT crossover? This would be a lot simpler (and cheaper)? I'm on a limited buget, but I want to do things right.
Forget about the Bose amps. Here is a way to help your budget. Remove the entire Bose door assemblies and sell them on eBay. You should be able to get $150-$175 for the set. I'm not sure why people buy them, but they do.
Now you have enough cash to pick up a budget US Acoustics or JBL amp.
I'm on a limited buget, but I want to do things right.
Well then as much as you are going to hate to hear it again, it you want to do the audio system right, then you are going to have to get rid of the factory Bose amps and IMO, the head unit as well. There are some very good electronics out there for not a tremendous amount of money. As long as you can muster up the cash, you will thank us in the end.
And don't let installing an amp in the hatch of the car intimidate you. It really isn't that bad. Just do a little research here, take you time, and everything should turn out just fine. Trust me, you think you can tackle tapping into the factory Bose system for power, you can install an amp in the hatch. :yesnod: Just let us know what you decide to do. :cheers: