Amp rack questions................
except in black. On this type of rack, how did he run the wires for amp power?
Does the rack base go over or under the carpet? I have a PPI 4125 amp that is pretty good size, and I want to put the cross overs in the rack too, does that sound like it's possible? Should I router grooves in the base,to run the cables through, or just clip them to the board? Do I have to run 12v fans in the rack to cool the amp or will it be alright by itself? There's so many questions that I'd like to ask, but don't want to take up all of your time.
[Modified by LuvmyC5, 10:15 AM 12/29/2003]
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
That amp rack *looks* like it has been placed ontop of the factory carpet. If you use MDF board it will be heavy enough that the sucker won't slide around on you. It also appears that the edge of thebox fits up against the rubber pieces that hold the Targa Top. This would be a good idea because it would give some support and prevent sliding. Another trick I have used is to buy some velcro (sp?) and place it on the bottom of the amp rack and let it stick to the carpet. Just an idea.
One thing I'm considering with my install, is either using a piece of plexiglass on the top to see my amps or making the amp rack completely enclosed in wood and carpeted. I'm leaning towards this second idea because I want it to appear to be "stock" but also to hide my mismatching amps :) I also plan on running some big **** wires and dont want the thing to tilt back and forth because of the wire. I also don't know how to use my router to save my life.
I would highly recomend getting some small fans. We're talking just like 2inch computer fans. Don't let the computer people screw you. They shouldn't run more than a couple bucks. They are also pretty quiet. I'm considering having one face in and the other face out. In other words, one blowing air in and one sucking it out. I'd also consider a switch to turn them on and off in case you aren't running the amps and don't want the sound of hoover coming from your "silent" fans that really aren't silent :)
I would also highly considering placing your crossovers on the amp rack. They don't need to be jumpin' round causing more trouble.
Let us know what you decide. I'll post some pics of my progress if I ever get better.
Noel
I'm very open to constructive criticism and advice if you've got any. I rounded the edges of the board today with a router, and was almost going to do grooves for the wires, but thought that I'd wait because I'm not sure how to run them so that they look nice. Then I've got to make the cover.
[Modified by LuvmyC5, 10:37 AM 1/2/2004]
Because alot of my customers (and myself) run their cars at the road race course, I have a real concern with heavy items (ie. amps, racks, speaker boxes...) becoming projectiles in the event of an off road excursion or the sudden deceleration of the car hitting a stationary object :crazy:
So when we build and install "Amp Racks" we have several goals; make them look as clean as possible, don't drill into gas tanks, and make them securely attached to the car.
How I would mount your rack is to build your base with 1/2" MDF. Rout out wiring grooves and do any fabrication to the base. Then "Liquid Nails" glue it to the fiberglass under the carpet. Then cut away the Jute sound deadening where your base is mounted. Run your wires and cut slots in carpet where needed for the wires to pass through. Then lay the carpet back over the base. Now you can use 1/2" screws to mount your amp and x-overs to the base, do all of your wiring, and then secure the top of your amp rack (Cover) to the base. Now everything is secured and should you ever decide to remove this setup, you can break and pry the MDF off of the fiberglass and just replace the padding under the carpet.
PS. When you go to ground your amp. Do not drill into the "Squarish" horizontal tube that goes accross the front of the cargo area, unless you go under the car and determine where the fuel tanks and fuel hoses and vent lines run. If you drill without looking you can hit gas. :cry
I like to ground the Amps to a factory bolt that is on the side rear door jamb area under the plastic trim that covers the upper seat belt retractor. A few C5 installs that had a ground loop noise problem, we ended up grounding the HU and amps to one of the studs that sticks out to the top of the transmission tunnel, under the console (this was the case when we used older or less expensive amps). This totally eliminated the Ground loop noise.
[Modified by C5stein, 2:19 PM 1/3/2004]















