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I've done this on all my previous cars. They were imports so they used the top mount for OEM. So I would get a side mount terminal and add more ground wire from the batt to the chaassis. So, now I did it again, this time in reverse. I bought a 1 gauge 31 inch cable and mounted it to my Exide Orbital XD's top, followd the OEM harness, under the coolant tank and grounded it to the OEM ground point thats right behind the hood strut. It looks pretty factory except for the part that actually goes onto the battery. I think it may have made a difference in the performance of my largest amp. I notice that the headlights do not dim as much even when I have the system cranked.
I also wonder if it makes any difference in the overall performance of the car. From the import world I know WRX and maxima (and probably others) owners do mods that include additional grounding of the battery. The theory behind this is theres a better ground which means a better reference for the computers and electronics and sensors to work off of. Since the C5 has alot of electronics on it maybe this will help out.
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (eRiCdWoNg)
makes sense, especially since some vehicles are grounded from the battery to the engine, the ground has to go through the engine mounts and that ain't good. On my Vette I actually have the power and GROUND straight to my battery.
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (vetterlatethannever)
On my Vette I actually have the power and GROUND straight to my battery.
I do this with EVERY install I do! The current has to have an equal path back to the battery. Steel (the chassis) SUCKS as a conductor compared to copper and the resistance differences can and do cause ground loops.
What drives me is finding the 4 or 8 awg black wire long enough to make it back to the battery. I wound up buying a spool of black 8 AWG wire and have used up most of it fixing other people's installs!
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (eRiCdWoNg)
Home Depot is a great source for 1/0, 2/0 or 4 awg wire. Any length. Reasonably priced. Terminal connectors at Ace hardware if you don't find them at partsexpress.
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (tomhanaway)
Home Depot is a great source for 1/0, 2/0 or 4 awg wire. Any length. Reasonably priced. Terminal connectors at Ace hardware if you don't find them at partsexpress.
I've bought 8AWG from HD, but even that is some stiff stuff to work with! I wouldn't think of using anything larger than 4AWG with the 20 guage strands that they use.
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (ShawnZR-1)
I disagree with the home depot recommendation for wire. That stuff is for building use- thus as mentioned it is STIFF. I had a hard enough time using 2 gauge battery cable let alone that stiff home depot stuff. THere is a local electronics supply house which has flexible stuff cheap, but its bout 30 min away from me.
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (eRiCdWoNg)
The stuff home depot sells is not that great for car audio. No matter what the gauge. There is not enough strands in the cable. Talk a look at a piece of 4ga Stinger wire and a piece of 4ga HD wire. The Stinger will have at least twice the strands. The more strands the better. Also I never run the ground to battery from the amplifiers. IF you have a good ground from the frame to the battery and then amplifier to battery there is no need to.
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (EatRice)
The stuff home depot sells is not that great for car audio. No matter what the gauge. There is not enough strands in the cable. Talk a look at a piece of 4ga Stinger wire and a piece of 4ga HD wire. The Stinger will have at least twice the strands. The more strands the better.
I totally agree with this.
Also I never run the ground to battery from the amplifiers. IF you have a good ground from the frame to the battery and then amplifier to battery there is no need to.
I somewhat disagree with this. I personally don't ground my amps back to the battery. However, upgrading the battery ground and chassy ground could be beneficial. The idea is that we are talking DC current. Even if you ground close to the amps, that current ultimately needs to make its way back to the battery. It uses the vehicle frame and the connection from the battery to the vehicle frame to do this. Your total ground resistance is determined by this "loop". For example, if you are running 4 gauge power to your amp and a short length of 4 gauge to the frame while the battery is grounded to the frame with 6 gauge wire, then you really don't have a 4 gauge loop.
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (leolufse)
Lars...my definition of a "good ground" is a ground cable that meets or exceeds the current needs of the vechicle. Personally when I do a serious install if an amp needs 4ga I run 0ga and so on. I say serious install because in the everyday world most people only either pay for or can afford what is needed to do the job.
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (EatRice)
Just as an aside, when talking guage versus strands, the best for conductivity is solid conductor. The best for flexibility is as many strands as possible for the same guage. We are assuming same material though (copper).
As with everything else, there are comprimises. I wouldn't want to try to run 1/0 solid conductor in a car! But strictly from an electronics standpoint, that would be able to supply the most current vs. a 1/0 stranded cable.
Case and point: Buss bars. They're used extensively in ultra high current applications. Cross sectional areas are calculated in KA/sq. in. That's Thousands of Amps per square inch.
All other things aside, the stranded cables from Street Wires Monster, etc., simply look better anyway!
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (ShawnZR-1)
Current travels on the surface of the strand not through the strand. So if you have a 4ga cable with 500 strands vs. a 4ga cable with 200 strands the 500 strand is going to be able to conduct more current than the 200 strand.
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (EatRice)
Current travels on the surface of the strand not through the strand. So if you have a 4ga cable with 500 strands vs. a 4ga cable with 200 strands the 500 strand is going to be able to conduct more current than the 200 strand.
I haven't heard that one before and I won't touch the solid vs. stranded topic with a ten foot pole.
98% of amp installs are grounded to the frame. My C5 is the only one I've seen in person that has the amps grounded straight to the battery. 0-guage is not cheap or any wire for that matter. Why buy 16 ft when you can buy only 1 ft. Good luck
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (EatRice)
Current travels on the surface of the strand not through the strand. So if you have a 4ga cable with 500 strands vs. a 4ga cable with 200 strands the 500 strand is going to be able to conduct more current than the 200 strand.
Yes, current travels nearer the surface of a cable as the frequency increases. It's called the skin effect. We're talking DC current and even at 60Hz, there is no skin effect. It takes multiple megahertz to introduce that phenomen. As a EET major with RF minor, I am qualified on this subject.
Now, want a real contreversy? Let's talk about which is better: fiber or coax digital interconnects!
Re: Added ground wire from batt to frame (EatRice)
NOPI is fun, although not on the list of most corvette guys list of fun things to do. I'll be there. check out http://www.peachstateposse.com events forum.