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Is there any noticable degradation in quality of sound if I were to tie my front speakers and 'rear' speakers to the same channel making them effectively 2ohm? I do listen to my music at the higher volume end of the spectrum so I would be near whatever max distortion settings I can hit with my setup. I've only really seen people mentioning the 4ohm setups for the front speakers, is it just unheard of to run a 2ohm load for higher range speakers?
On a side note, what is the 'recomended' cross over range for the front/rears and the sub?
Currently I've got the sub crossing over at 120hz LP, and the fronts are crossing over at 100hz HP. There is a lot more sound coming out of the rear currently than should I'm guessing. If I was to drop the crossover setting for the sub I'd have to drop the HP so as not to miss any sound though, right? In doing that am I not increasing the 'instability' and 'distortion' out of the fronts?
Is there any noticable degradation in quality of sound if I were to tie my front speakers and 'rear' speakers to the same channel making them effectively 2ohm? I do listen to my music at the higher volume end of the spectrum so I would be near whatever max distortion settings I can hit with my setup. I've only really seen people mentioning the 4ohm setups for the front speakers, is it just unheard of to run a 2ohm load for higher range speakers?
As long as your amp can handle a 2 channel 2 ohm load you will be okay. But, you wont have any fader control between the front and rear channels.
Originally Posted by Ssseeya
On a side note, what is the 'recomended' cross over range for the front/rears and the sub?
Currently I've got the sub crossing over at 120hz LP, and the fronts are crossing over at 100hz HP. There is a lot more sound coming out of the rear currently than should I'm guessing. If I was to drop the crossover setting for the sub I'd have to drop the HP so as not to miss any sound though, right? In doing that am I not increasing the 'instability' and 'distortion' out of the fronts?
Thanks!
This depends on several factors: speaker size, speaker quality, power to the speakers, size of the vehicle, etc. Generally a 6.5" component set should be able to play all the way down to 60-80 hz and a 10" sealed sub shouldn't be set up to play any higher than 80 hz or so. Too low of frequency on the fronts and they will "fart" and too high of frequency on the sub, it will bleed into the midbass and possibly sound "muddy" and distorted.
As long as your amp can handle a 2 channel 2 ohm load you will be okay. But, you wont have any fader control between the front and rear channels.
It's actually a 4 channel Amp I'm running (MA Audio HK204SX). It say's it's stable to .5 ohms so that shouldn't be a problem. I'm running the rear channel bridged at 2 ohms and the front channel is currently running separate at 4 ohm. I've read a lot about people who are just eliminating the Rear speakers and just running the fronts - if the rears are really that inconsequential then perhaps I am better off leaving the fronts running only the fronts?
In the worst case, I don't really have to worry so much about any added 'distortion' from a 4ohm setup vs the 2ohm from my fronts/rears then?
Originally Posted by leolufse
This depends on several factors: speaker size, speaker quality, power to the speakers, size of the vehicle, etc. Generally a 6.5" component set should be able to play all the way down to 60-80 hz and a 10" sealed sub shouldn't be set up to play any higher than 80 hz or so. Too low of frequency on the fronts and they will "fart" and too high of frequency on the sub, it will bleed into the midbass and possibly sound "muddy" and distorted.
The Fronts are your standard 6.5" infinity speakers that claim to be good down to 53hz. I'm considering running a set of 6x9's there instead however if they will fit that are good for a little lower. The sub is a 12" MA Audio DVC MA120XE. I don't recall what it's range is though. I also don't know what power I'm pushing to the sub. The only rating I could find was bridged at 1ohm it's 600x1. I assume that since I'm running 2ohms it's more like 300x1rms?
It depends on the slope of the crossovers also. I used to have my sub set to 80 hz LP 12 db slope when I was using the amp's onboard crossovers, but when I switched to a full active crossover it actually sounds better at 100 hz LP with an 18 db slope. The triple midbasses I have in each door pick up much better at 100 hz and sound cleaner than when they were set to 80 hz. The increased slope of the crossover helps them a lot too I'm sure.
It depends on the slope of the crossovers also. I used to have my sub set to 80 hz LP 12 db slope when I was using the amp's onboard crossovers, but when I switched to a full active crossover it actually sounds better at 100 hz LP with an 18 db slope. The triple midbasses I have in each door pick up much better at 100 hz and sound cleaner than when they were set to 80 hz. The increased slope of the crossover helps them a lot too I'm sure.
Hmmm... Actually, I have not true crossovers in the system. The amp has the onboard crossovers for each channel and the head unit also has the crossovers in it for each channel (it's a Kenwood Excelon X679). Actually... That brings to mind another question then. In that setup is it better to let the head unit hand the filtering or the amp? Along those lines am I better off to boost the output of the Head Unit or have the gain higher on the amp?
Ssseeya....your amp xover and head unit xover are both true crossovers. As for which one to use you need to know which one has a steeper slope.Use the one that is higher or you can set them both to the same frequency and use them together to raise the slope. As for which one to gain up...it would better to gain up the amp.
You ask about the rear speakers. People like myself do not use the rear speakers because of imaging problems. The rear speakers are too close to your head and will mess up the imaging. Another reason I generally do not use them is because there is no rear information recored on a CD...only left and right. But the rear speakers are good if you are more interested in having alot of volume in the car. No replacement fo displacement type of thing. So you should decide on what you want from your system and then determine if the speakers stay or go.
You mention 6x9's in the doors....I highly recommend you don't do that. There is so much room in your doors for speakers it is awesome. A 6x9 will not sound as good as a nice set of 6.5's and tweets.
You mention 6x9's in the doors....I highly recommend you don't do that. There is so much room in your doors for speakers it is awesome. A 6x9 will not sound as good as a nice set of 6.5's and tweets.
So what yall are saying is that you should eliminate the rear speakers altogether, run components up front with an amp, and a sub in the back and that will make everything sound good?