Hardwire replacement for GM10-AUX Adapter
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,576
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From: Austin TX
Hardwire replacement for GM10-AUX Adapter
Does anyone have the pinout for the 10-pin connector going into the factory CD changer?
Can you tap into the aux input easily if you know this pinout, or is there some matching restriction?
Having just spent $140 on the XM Roady2, I think it is ridiculous to spend $75 on an adapter to avoid using the FM modulator (which sucks in Austin, btw, as every one of the 12 frequencies you can choose is hammered with interference).
Thks,
F
Can you tap into the aux input easily if you know this pinout, or is there some matching restriction?
Having just spent $140 on the XM Roady2, I think it is ridiculous to spend $75 on an adapter to avoid using the FM modulator (which sucks in Austin, btw, as every one of the 12 frequencies you can choose is hammered with interference).
Thks,
F
Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 728
Likes: 4
From: knoxville tn
see my post on 1st day with roady 2. I can imagine your problems finding a fm frequency that worked. I will probably go with a direct wired unit in the vette. I received a quote of $240 installed for another unit, not a roady, to install in vette. will relocate the roady 2 to wife's car which has a cassette player.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 25,344
Likes: 222
From: Frisco, TX
Hey Flintstone -- too bad you're not still up here in DFW or I'd come help you personally, as I certainly owe you a favor. But, living in Austin is certainly a worthwhile trade-off.
There's only 7 pins used on that connector, and here's the wire colors:
1) dark green/white stripe: right audio
2) brown/white stripe: left audio
3) black/white stripe: common audio
4) shield wire
5) orange: 12volts (I think battery, meaning hot all the time?)
6) gray: ground
7) solid green: serial control between the head unit and the CD player
Forum member powerdoc helped me with a schematic of a way to connect a relay so you can switch between the CD player and another device that provides a line-level input. I think the type of signal level you have depends on the type of XM device. I read that some folks here have used the headphone output to proivde signals to their head unit, but I read elsewhere that a headphone signal is too large because it is amplified to drive headphones, but it can be turned down with a few resistors if you're knowledgeable in that area (a 10 to 1 voltage divider).
If you choose to get rid of the CD connection and not use the relay, you MUST leave the CD player powered and leave the connection of its green wire to the head unit. That green wire basically tells the head unit to allow the line-in inputs to be received. Or, you can buy a fancy device from some third party (PIE) which makes a fake signal.
I ended up trying the latter route and with relays, but it's not so perfect so I won't bore you with it. In hindsight, I might've been better off just doing what powerdoc suggested.
There's only 7 pins used on that connector, and here's the wire colors:
1) dark green/white stripe: right audio
2) brown/white stripe: left audio
3) black/white stripe: common audio
4) shield wire
5) orange: 12volts (I think battery, meaning hot all the time?)
6) gray: ground
7) solid green: serial control between the head unit and the CD player
Forum member powerdoc helped me with a schematic of a way to connect a relay so you can switch between the CD player and another device that provides a line-level input. I think the type of signal level you have depends on the type of XM device. I read that some folks here have used the headphone output to proivde signals to their head unit, but I read elsewhere that a headphone signal is too large because it is amplified to drive headphones, but it can be turned down with a few resistors if you're knowledgeable in that area (a 10 to 1 voltage divider).
If you choose to get rid of the CD connection and not use the relay, you MUST leave the CD player powered and leave the connection of its green wire to the head unit. That green wire basically tells the head unit to allow the line-in inputs to be received. Or, you can buy a fancy device from some third party (PIE) which makes a fake signal.
I ended up trying the latter route and with relays, but it's not so perfect so I won't bore you with it. In hindsight, I might've been better off just doing what powerdoc suggested.
