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Infinity Speakers/Need advise, please help

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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 12:46 PM
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Default Infinity Speakers/Need advise, please help

I decided to change out the Bose System.

I decided on an Alpine CDA 9827 head unit.

I have two Fosgate Amps that I'm going to be using.

I have a 12" JL Audio sub that I'm going to be using.

My question is pertaining to the door and rear speakers.

I'm planning on going with the Infinity 60.5cs components up front.
Does anyone have any experience with these speakers?
Will I have to do alot of customizing to make them fit?

I'm also planning on going with the Infinity 652.5i speakers for the rear.
Does anyone have an experience with these speakers?
Will I be able to use the stock grills using these speakers?
Cutomizing required or they just screw in?

Thanks
Nick
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 03:12 PM
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I spent the past two weekends replacing my Delco/Bose system. Spent a lot of time going through the archives here and learned a lot beforehand.

Pertinent to your questions:

1. No matter what speakers you put into the front, you will have to do customizing, or buy a custom mount. The existing Bose equipment includes two speakers and a small amplifier, mounted into a single hole in the door, that is roughly figure 8 shaped. I made a custom panel out of 3/4" MDF to attach to the door panel, and cut a hole in it to mount my 6.5" MBQuart speakers. Some people mount both a dedicated midrange and a separate tweeter.

Also, you can't pull the front grills - you have to pull off the whole door panel. Use the Corvette Essentials web site for excellent instructions on how to pull the panel.

2. For the rears, you've got a circular hole with four mounting screws that are 6.5" apart (top to bottom and left to right). On the driver's side you've got approximately 3" of depth, due to the fuel filler pipe. On the passenger side you've got a little more.

You can carefully pull the grills off the rears by prying with a screwdriver.

Another critical thing I learned was that the mounting depth for the HU is only about 6 to 6.5 inches to be flush with the dash panel. Some people heat up and "stretch" the airbox that is behind the HU to get a little more cable room. My 6" Sony would not fit flush due to the Unilink cable, which has a hard connector that extends about an inch, so I got an extension that pushes the HU out an inch or so from the dash. I did not have the courage to try the heat and stretch technique.
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 03:56 PM
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Thanks for the reply.
It looks like I have alot of work to look forward to.
I hope it was worth it.
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 04:04 PM
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Worth it? Oh yeah! Deep lows, crisp highs, clean FM reception, iPod interface.

Even with my paltry 10" single sub, it feels like someone is kicking the back of my seat at about 60% volume.

BTW, I've got a Legend two channel, 450W "peak to peak" amp, so I figure about 100W RMS into each channel. I've got one channel running the MBQuart two-ways up front, and the second channel bridged to run the sub.

I'll post some pics later today or tomorrow of the door panels and mounts to give you an idea of what you'll have to do. Just some careful work with a pencil, jigsaw and drill and you'll be good to go.
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 09:54 PM
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Here are pictures behind the door panels, and of the speaker mount I built.

Here is the door with the panel removed, and the Bose unit still installed:



Here is the non-standard hole after the Bose unit has been removed:



I cut a speaker mount out of 3/4" MDF. I used the Bose unit as a template for the shape and mounting holes.



Finally, here is the speaker mount installed with the speaker. As you can see, there is plenty of room to install a dedicated tweeter if you want.

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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 10:19 PM
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Thanks.
That's awesome.
I'm going to go with the Infinity components up front.
I was considering using plexi glass to mount the speakers in the door, but I like the way you did it.
I was unable to locate a thread pertaining to the removal of the door panel, do you remember where it was?

Nick
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 07:59 AM
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Here is the link to the Vette Essentials web site with instructions on removing the door panel:

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...or_handle.html

Careful as I was, I still broke a couple of the male pins, and pulled two of the grommets out pulling off the panels. I was able to glue the grommets back in, but I had to replace the pins (can get them at Chevy dealership).
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 06:14 PM
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Thanks.
I'm printing them out right now.
I owe you (vate) big time.
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 10:57 PM
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Hey, no problem. I just did what you are about to do, the least I can do is help.

Here are a few more tips on the doors.

Here is detail showing how I created the template for the speaker mounts in the doors. I used cardboard from a pizza box to draw the template accurately, as there is no flat part to the original Bose assemblies to do a flat drawing:



I drilled large inset holes for the screws, exactly the size of some washers I had, and inserted the washers in the insets so the screw heads wouldn't protrude. Note that it is very easy to drill right through the MDF - I ruined one mount doing this. Use a drill press or drill collar to limit the depth of the hole.



Here are the screws I used from Home Depot, #8 X 1 1/4 inches. You need longer screws due to the thickness of the MDF. These match the pitch of the originals, so they go right in:



You can run your speaker wire from the doors straight through the large tube that all the wires go through - you can almost fit your hand in there. This ends at an access door that is right above the hood release on the driver's side, and similarly placed on the passenger side. It is a stiff rubber, and pops off with a little work. I drilled a hole in it and placed a rubber grommet for the speaker wire to come through:

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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 07:42 AM
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Thanks again.
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Old Sep 20, 2004 | 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Vate
Here are pictures behind the door panels, and of the speaker mount I built.

Here is the door with the panel removed, and the Bose unit still installed:



Here is the non-standard hole after the Bose unit has been removed:



I cut a speaker mount out of 3/4" MDF. I used the Bose unit as a template for the shape and mounting holes.



Finally, here is the speaker mount installed with the speaker. As you can see, there is plenty of room to install a dedicated tweeter if you want.


Awesome thread. I just used your idea and installed a set of Infinitys front and rear using your template for the front. Came out great. Saved myself $470 that the stereo shop was going to charge me for the install.
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Old Sep 20, 2004 | 05:03 PM
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Randy
I thought you had Focals in the doors. Those sure look like MB Quart to me
PS awesome advice guys
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