upgraded Stereo...Humming Noise
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From: Rye Brook, NY
upgraded Stereo...Humming Noise
REVISED: Added MB Quart RSB218's and Pioneer PRS-X320 Amp. There was a low pitched noise that got worse with acceleration. Installer added some line "things" that helped, but not great. It was probably due to wiring into the BOSE headunit. Installer now has signal from rear speakers going to amp to give signal to front MB Quarts. Will this degrade sound quality? Is the rear signal the same as the front signal?
Any ideas? Also have Infinities in rears attached to the amp.
It sounds ok, not great. Will be changing the headunit soon if I need to.
Thanks,
Adam
Any ideas? Also have Infinities in rears attached to the amp.
It sounds ok, not great. Will be changing the headunit soon if I need to.
Thanks,
Adam
Last edited by spdnman; Nov 22, 2004 at 01:16 PM.
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From: Redsox, Pats, Celts & Bruins !!! Redsox Nation !!!
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Originally Posted by Vette_47E
You might have them check the ground on the amp. It need to be a rock solid ground. I ground my PG amp to the chassis under the car.
Agreed, sounds like a ground.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: San Pedro CA
Is this a Bose system? It does not sound like it.
hum is ignition related.
A couple of things...
1) check the amp, if the gain is too high, that will pick up noise.
2) the routing of the RCA cables. If they are routed to close to the electrical harness, they will pick up noise.
The line thingys he added are more then likely line drivers. They increase the voltage to the amplifier, cutting down noise.
hum is ignition related.
A couple of things...
1) check the amp, if the gain is too high, that will pick up noise.
2) the routing of the RCA cables. If they are routed to close to the electrical harness, they will pick up noise.
The line thingys he added are more then likely line drivers. They increase the voltage to the amplifier, cutting down noise.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: North of Atlanta GA
St. Jude Donor '05
I agree with Bogus on the ignition, amp, RCA advice, plus ground, ground, ground, ground, check what you're grounding to, use GOOD wire and make sure it's screwed down tight to the gound location. If no luck take it to an ignition guy for a check.
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From: Rye Brook, NY
Originally Posted by bogus
Is this a Bose system? It does not sound like it.
hum is ignition related.
A couple of things...
1) check the amp, if the gain is too high, that will pick up noise.
2) the routing of the RCA cables. If they are routed to close to the electrical harness, they will pick up noise.
The line thingys he added are more then likely line drivers. They increase the voltage to the amplifier, cutting down noise.
hum is ignition related.
A couple of things...
1) check the amp, if the gain is too high, that will pick up noise.
2) the routing of the RCA cables. If they are routed to close to the electrical harness, they will pick up noise.
The line thingys he added are more then likely line drivers. They increase the voltage to the amplifier, cutting down noise.
cables went from battery to door speakers to hatch where amp is mounted.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
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From: San Pedro CA
I do not believe this is an igntion problem, as much as it is a electrical glitch. The distributorless ignitions don't generate the same amt or type of noise.
Are you saying that the RCA cables are run with the power cables to the amp? If so, that, my friend, is your problem. The RCAs are picking up the alternator.
Also, the bose requires the use of adaptors, they are notorious for creating more noise than music. I hate them.
Are you saying that the RCA cables are run with the power cables to the amp? If so, that, my friend, is your problem. The RCAs are picking up the alternator.
Also, the bose requires the use of adaptors, they are notorious for creating more noise than music. I hate them.
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From: Rye Brook, NY
Originally Posted by bogus
I do not believe this is an igntion problem, as much as it is a electrical glitch. The distributorless ignitions don't generate the same amt or type of noise.
Are you saying that the RCA cables are run with the power cables to the amp? If so, that, my friend, is your problem. The RCAs are picking up the alternator.
Also, the bose requires the use of adaptors, they are notorious for creating more noise than music. I hate them.
Are you saying that the RCA cables are run with the power cables to the amp? If so, that, my friend, is your problem. The RCAs are picking up the alternator.
Also, the bose requires the use of adaptors, they are notorious for creating more noise than music. I hate them.
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St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Also, the bose requires the use of adaptors, they are notorious for creating more noise than music. I hate them
to me, those adaptors are a waste of money that could have been better spent on an aftermarket HU. With a new HU, you could use RCAs directly to your amp and use the higher output wattage the new HU to power your rears. Or, even better, use the new HU to power both the front and rear speakers and use the amp to power a small sub. 
It's also why bose heads - and amps - require interface modules to work with aftermarket components.
these systems are so proprietary that it just makes no sense to spend money upgrading them.
I am not a fan of making these systems better, there is no point. The head units are poor signal sources, and they are not very durable.
I much prefer the idea of gutting the system and going full aftermarket.
If I was doing an install on a C5, I would build up with a nice set of 3 way components, a 6" mid-bass, 4" mid range and a 1" tweeter. Boston, Focal and CDT, among others, make some very nice 3-ways. Then install a real nice sub, something like a JL 12W6 or equal.
A nice 2 channel amp, something in the area of 150 watts per, for the front stage, and a killer 1000 watt mono for the sub. Xtant, Precision Power, JL Audio, Butler or Arc are good choices.
Rear fill is not really needed in the small spaces of a corvette
these systems are so proprietary that it just makes no sense to spend money upgrading them.
I am not a fan of making these systems better, there is no point. The head units are poor signal sources, and they are not very durable.
I much prefer the idea of gutting the system and going full aftermarket.
If I was doing an install on a C5, I would build up with a nice set of 3 way components, a 6" mid-bass, 4" mid range and a 1" tweeter. Boston, Focal and CDT, among others, make some very nice 3-ways. Then install a real nice sub, something like a JL 12W6 or equal.
A nice 2 channel amp, something in the area of 150 watts per, for the front stage, and a killer 1000 watt mono for the sub. Xtant, Precision Power, JL Audio, Butler or Arc are good choices.
Rear fill is not really needed in the small spaces of a corvette
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From: Iowa
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Originally Posted by spdnman
REVISED: Added MB Quart RSB218's and Pioneer PRS-X320 Amp. There was a low pitched noise that got worse with acceleration. Installer added some line "things" that helped, but not great. It was probably due to wiring into the BOSE headunit. Installer now has signal from rear speakers going to amp to give signal to front MB Quarts. Will this degrade sound quality? Is the rear signal the same as the front signal?
Any ideas? Also have Infinities in rears attached to the amp.
It sounds ok, not great. Will be changing the headunit soon if I need to.
Thanks,
Adam
Any ideas? Also have Infinities in rears attached to the amp.
It sounds ok, not great. Will be changing the headunit soon if I need to.
Thanks,
Adam
Write back what amp you have so I can provide more advice/suggestions
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From: Rye Brook, NY
Originally Posted by knewblewkorvette
It sounds like your installer put in some ground loop isolators on your RCA cables. I really have doubts about your choice of installer. Those isolaters are a bandaide on a big cut. You need stitches. Tell him you are dissatisfied and hopefull he'll take back the isolators and Bose to aftermarket adaptor and give you credit on a new aftermarket HU. You will not have to worry about noise then since you will no longer need a high-level to low-level adaptor. Get a HU with 3 sets of RCA outputs. You can then hook-up the system the way it should be. With the front channel RCAs going to the amp that powers the front speakers If your amp is a 4-channel, then you can use the rears off the rear RCAs. If you have a 2-channel amp and have both front and back speakers to it, the is far from the best way to do things since you will have no fadar control and running two different speakers off the same channel.
Write back what amp you have so I can provide more advice/suggestions
Write back what amp you have so I can provide more advice/suggestions
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From: Rye Brook, NY
Originally Posted by knewblewkorvette
That is one hell of a HU, serious $.
I would use that to power your fronts and rears, use the amp you have to power a sub. With that HU, your options are endless
I would use that to power your fronts and rears, use the amp you have to power a sub. With that HU, your options are endless
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From: Iowa
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
I'm a big fan of Pioneer HUs but they use XM instead of Sirius. Kenwood uses Sirius but I do not like Kenwood (many bad experiences with them). I think Alpine uses Sirius and/or XM. They are the only manufacturer I know of that gives you the option of both. The higher priced Alpines have a good reputation. 
Burning Brakes
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From: Kansas City
Personally to get rid of noise in my system, the key was adjusting the gains. I had to muck with it for a while but since I have no life it wasn't a big deal.
That is an awesome HU! I'm green with envy.
That is an awesome HU! I'm green with envy.
