Hello all! I am ready to clear coat a 1/25 Z06 model. I bought Testor's clear to air brush on. What is the procedure to get a good, shiney clear coat on? How many coats, sanding in between, etc. Thanks.

 

 

I would be careful with testers products. Every time I use them whether it is from a spray can or an air brush; the paint and or clear coat always bubbles and ends up look terrible. Maybe I'm doing something incorrectly, if know one else has trouble with their products.

 

I use Duplicolor spray clear on my models.

 

Tom/99 is right on the money.As a matter of fact I use dupilcolor color as well you have much more in choice.I usually use a primer first so I can see where I need to sand off parting lines ect.Use 1500-2000 grit wet/dry and go from there.

 

I use Testers Model Master Clear right from the rattle can, all the time. The Model Master line is sold in hobby shops and I don't know if it is different than the Testers line that is sold at Walmart etc, but I've gotten very good results with it...

GT

 

You have many options when it comes to clear-coating your model; here are a few I've used in the past...

1) Testors clear (rattle can or airbrushed): pretty straightforward but takes a while to dry and you need to use a polishing system for a really great shine (like the micromesh system). One really big drawback... Testors clear tends to yellow (badly) over time.

2) Tamiya Clear or Mr.Color Topcoat (Gloss): Both are rattle can acrylic lacquers, easy to use, 2-3 coats yield an awesome shine, and dries to the touch quickly (takes about 2 weeks to fully setup). I've used this stuff for years, both on contract builds & my own projects. I love both products but they can be tough to find and a bit expensive.

3) Zynolyte (sp?) crystal clear: Well, I think it's still called crystal clear??? Anyhow I used this spray enamel a few years back almost exclusively. It was dirt-cheap but provided an excellent finish. After applying 2-4 coats then sanding & polishing with micromesh, you'll end up with a glass like surface. I used it on a McLaren MP4/6 about 12 years ago... Still no yellowing.

4) 1:1 scale car paints: You can go this route as well but be careful!!! Some touch up paints or auto paints in general can do nasty things to plastic kits without a primer or barrier coat. Test on scrap plastic first!!!

5) Future floor wax: I'm not insane... It works quite well and when carefully applied with a wide flat brush (with very slow & smooth strokes) you can end up with a phenomenal finish. Normally one coat is all you need, just keep the model away from any dust for a good week to really let the stuff setup. I’ve used future on my aircraft model canopies for years, as well as some of my car models. Recently I did a rush job for a customer and glossed a Ferrari F2001 with future because I didn't have time use other techniques. It's still glass like after 3 years. A word of warning... Using future takes practice & patients; also, the older formula can yellow over time.

Think that's about it for now, hope that helps a little!!!

A'hui hou,

Mark