A few questions for those of you that have installed a separate EOC:

1. what size cooler did you get? Also, what brand?


2. where did you place it? (if you have a pic, that would be nice)

3. how much did it improve your engine oil temps?

Thanks

 

Rough dimensions: 13x5x2. It's an Earl's cooler.

Placed it on the front crashbar. http://www.z06tt.com/cf/oilcooler.wmv

Dropped my oil temps around 30ish degrees (with twin turbos). Makes recovery time substantially faster.

FWIW we sell a hose kit that will get you everything you need other than the cooler itself. It includes an LPE oil cooler block, -10an braided stainless hose, and associated fittings.

 

I have been planning to install this one where the spare tire was:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...D70266&FROM=MG

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...D15720&FROM=MG

 

45,000 BTU unit from PermaKool. An install guide I put together is here:

http://www.brazosrivercc.com/Tips.html

DIYNoob's performance is right about where I am: about 30-35 degree drop in temps, and much faster cool-down.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

 

Thanks for the responses.

How did you decide what size oil cooler to go with? Is there some formula or rules of thumb for selecting?

 

Nice Vid !!!!

I am thinking of placing a cooler in the same location. Basically there was enough space behind the license area without cutting or modifying?? I have the Z06 cutouts also. And I have a tranny cooler in front of the condensor/radiator.....so this is the only other area I could think of. But you are the first I know of thats actually done it !!!!!

You could find any other routing of the lines?? I wonder how well that thermal blanket works where you have the lines going between headers and block???


DH

 

Given my experience with LS engines, bigger is better. You are unlikely to have too much oil cooling. Especially if we are considering track use. Street use is a different story.

With our oil cooler setup we have seen temperatures go from consistently over 300* and rising to stable in the 260* region.

The big advantage is that you get air from a nice high pressure zone and it doesn't enter the air stream to the radiator.



All the pieces that come in the kit.



Aaron

 

Aaron, that looks nice but I don't see it on your website, how much does it cost?

I hope this isn't a hijack and useful to the original poster but I've been going back and forth about a new radiator with EOC built-in or two separate larger units (larger new rad and large EOC). I am only doing autox and HPDEs but our temps here in the high desert (6000') does hit high 90's with no humidity and I often can barely make 15 minutes before I hit 300 and have to do cool down laps. I'm not worried about any classing so I just want to be efficient with my money.

 

You'll be happier with the separate units. There are several threads on this forum that will basically get you that information. We run here at altitude also and the thin air is difficult. We often see 100 ambient and with less density, the heat transfer on both the radiator and OC are reduced.

The retail cost of our unit is $875 for everything you see. It has a Mocal 25 row cooler, braided lines and a block-off plate for the oil pan that we make. We are just launching the product. I think it'll be on the website today or tomorrow. Feel free to call if you have questions.

Sorry about the thread hijack.

Aaron

 

Aaron,

Nice looking set-up. I think I remember seeing that on your car at Carlisle. I am Tony's brother, Tim. We chatted for a while about oil coolers, etc.

I have a halltech tunnel port on my car right now. Would what you are selling as a kit replace that? What impact would placing the oil cooler where the front license plate goes have on my cold air intake?

How many BTUs is your unit?

Did not consider your post a hijack. Anything that adds to the post is good!!

Thanks

 

Thanks DH I set that up about a year ago -- winter time of last year. I shared the setup with others in the FI section a few times but never really posted it over here in tech or gen.

I sort of got stuck with that routing because of the fact that the motor is twin turbocharged. If you look at the very beginning of the video you can see that the turbos really block any possible exit of the lines almost any other way.

I have to admit that I was concerned about hose placement in that location as well. However, I was advised by someone who did it before me (RoadRebel) that it was working fine on a couple of cars he did that way, and so far it's working fine on mine as well. Next time I pull the motor for R&R or maybe a turbo swap, I will definitely evaluate other means of hose routing, or frankly, even trying to setup hard line around the header area that will pretty much never break down. On a stock or headered car routing options are much more wide open.

The idea behind the setup was to allow me to put a mesh license plate in there to allow direct air for track days, I just never really got around to doing it. Very cool to see the Pfadt kit does just that! I am a DIY guy at heart and a vendor next, but not really an engineer -- so it's neat to see someone else with that kind of experience thinking along the same wavelength as I was

As I mentioned we do sell the hose kit on our site. It includes everything but the oil cooler (I just ended up buying mine from Summit, to be honest with you). The hose kit is $432, and is located here:

http://www.mphparts.com/mm5/merchant...Category_Code=

It's a Dewitt's hose kit made for their radiators to connect to a right side engine oil cooler, so it reaches the middle of the front crash bar fine.

To mount the cooler I just got some L brackets from Home Depot and bent them to the desired mounting angle. In the future, if there is enough interest, we may offer a 100% complete kit, including the cooler and mounting brackets.

 

Oh, the one thing I will add is that oil temps will *drop* with a cooler in that location. In the mild Florida winter cruising on the interstate my temps would stay around 160* - 170*. Some would argue that's too cool. I was more worried about the amount of time it took for the car to warm up, so I added a Mocal -10an inline thermostat. Now my temperatures are never below 190.

 

Aaron

I am glad you posted your system. Your buddy Doug (met him racing at WSIR last month) told me to call you but I never got around to it.

I think your setup looks very cool.

Three questions:
1. what are the deminsions of the cooler
2. can the license cover be easily replaced for daily driving
3. does the nose clip need to be removed for installation


DH

 

So it seems that you got good results without opening the license cover area. Do you think the results would be better with this area opened up like in Aarons setup.


DH

 

DH,

Doug told me about your oil temperature problems. As my engine builder, he takes an interest in my own oil temps and likes how well my system works.

1. The cooler is a Mocal brand aluminum cooler that is 8x12x2 in the core section. It has -10 AN fittings on it. The Mocal coolers are very nice units and feature aluminum cores and built in turbulators for better heat transfer (more cooling).

2. You can put the license cover on in place of the trim piece and screen for less cooling during daily use. The holes that the cover screws to are left in the bumper section. Also, the entire foam crush bumper under the cover is left intact.

3. The install is accomplished with the bumper cover on the car. You get the cooler in place through the bottom of the nose where it attaches to the radiator duct (five screws are removed there). That allows access to the mounting hardware and the fittings to install the lines.

BTW, are you going to be at the NCM event at Spring Mountain in November?



Aaron

 

Yes, absolutely. I am sure that there is some airflow through my cooler due to turbulence in that area (because the car is turbocharged, I have an intercooler and no front radiator shroud). But opening up the front like Aaron's setup can only help -- and I would imagine, quite drastically.

This item is not really a big item for us, it's just something I try to help forum members out with when looking for a cost effective solution. Basically for around $450 plus your own oil cooler (plenty of great ones around $100) you can get results similar or better than mine (remember, I have a pair of turbos sitting down by my oil pan which heats the oil as it passes through as well as heats the oil pan through radiant heat).

If Aaron's solution was around a year ago when I started this build I honestly don't think I would have thought twice. I have some of his other products (coils, sways) on my car and they are top notch. His oil cooler setup looks like it's no exception.

Nice work guys.

 

Thanks for the honest response. Since I can replace the licence (with chrome inserts ) I would definately do this too.


DH

 

Aaron

I am getting a new 416 short block with 225 AFR heads and 228/232 cam installed very shortly. At that time I am going to disconnect the EOC in the front wheel well (worthless) and switch out my DeWitts with a Ron Davies radiator. Both have internal EOC's but another forum vendor wants me to R&R believing that it will deliver better results than Dewitts. If results are not sufficient I will DEFINATELY be calling you. Your setup is a no brainer as you can install without removing the front bumper and can replace license cover for esthetics.

No I wont be at Spring Mountain. Haven't been there yet but will get there sooner or later. Hope to meet you at the track


DH

 

Our EOC is a 7 plate and the RD is a 6 plate. I can't see how that is going to be an improvement.

 

Tom

The EOC in your radiator worked as good or better than the external EOC I used to bypass it with. I personally will be surprized if the RD keeps my oil cool enough on the track. But I agreed to an offer I couldn't refuse to R&D.

I think Aarons set up by itself or maybe in series with the internal EOC is in my future.


DH