Painting advice
#1
Instructor
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Painting advice
Need to paint a headlight cover that I bought new. The surface to be painted is smooth and ready to be painted, but do I need to prime it first? Any tips on undertaking this?
Roy
Roy
#3
Safety Car
You definately need to scuff it to get the paint to stick.
My recommendation (assuming it's plastic) is to scuff it with some fine grit sandpaper, prime it, let it dry, then paint it the color you want.
The paint will last a lot longer. Are you using spray cans or a professional type gun?
My recommendation (assuming it's plastic) is to scuff it with some fine grit sandpaper, prime it, let it dry, then paint it the color you want.
The paint will last a lot longer. Are you using spray cans or a professional type gun?
#5
Safety Car
Dunno about that...I use Duplicolor (the stuff usually found at auto parts stores) and it's much better if you put it on pretty wet. Obviously not so wet that you get drips or runs, but wet enough that it looks glossy after each coat.
Again, that may not be the only way, but that's what's worked for me and sadly, I've painted my car a lot.
I painted half of my rear bumper skin after my Mid-Ohio fire last year, and aside from the horrible masking job I did it looked good.
Again, that may not be the only way, but that's what's worked for me and sadly, I've painted my car a lot.
I painted half of my rear bumper skin after my Mid-Ohio fire last year, and aside from the horrible masking job I did it looked good.
#6
Burning Brakes
1. Clean with alcohol or wax and grease remover
2. Scuff with scotchbrite or 400# to 600# sand paper
3. If no repairs are needed start painting - 2-3 light even coats - clear coat if possible.. dont need primer unless repairs are done or you are going light color over dark color
HTH
2. Scuff with scotchbrite or 400# to 600# sand paper
3. If no repairs are needed start painting - 2-3 light even coats - clear coat if possible.. dont need primer unless repairs are done or you are going light color over dark color
HTH
#7
Melting Slicks
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1. Clean with alcohol or wax and grease remover
2. Scuff with scotchbrite or 400# to 600# sand paper
3. If no repairs are needed start painting - 2-3 light even coats - clear coat if possible.. dont need primer unless repairs are done or you are going light color over dark color
HTH
2. Scuff with scotchbrite or 400# to 600# sand paper
3. If no repairs are needed start painting - 2-3 light even coats - clear coat if possible.. dont need primer unless repairs are done or you are going light color over dark color
HTH
I always use primer. Duplicolor as mentioned above requires it's own primer. best to spray when warm, use light coats, with a rattle can, sweep over the area, left to right or whatever, but start the stream before you get to the part and stop after you pass it so you are getting a good mist when you get to the part.
Multiple light coats are better then overdoing it, getting a run and having to sand again
It ain't brain surgery.
#8
Only needs to look good at 50 feet at 50 mph.
#9
Yea, thin coats, let them dry inbetween to what's noted on the can.
JVetthead and Dregsz got it especially " ain't rocket science"
Scuff it then wash with simple green or dawn and lots of hot water, then don't get any fingerprints on it and shoot it.
And note that rattle can paint doesn't have as much chip resistance as the good chit.
Since it's white and rattle can paint, I'd suggest putting on clear because the tire marbles will stain the white. The clear helps.
JVetthead and Dregsz got it especially " ain't rocket science"
Scuff it then wash with simple green or dawn and lots of hot water, then don't get any fingerprints on it and shoot it.
And note that rattle can paint doesn't have as much chip resistance as the good chit.
Since it's white and rattle can paint, I'd suggest putting on clear because the tire marbles will stain the white. The clear helps.
#10
Instructor
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thanks everyone. I am ready for the challenge. I will enjoy doing the 4 brake caliper rebuild and the diff fluid change more than the painting.