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C4 Alignment Tuesday...

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Old 09-06-2008, 02:03 PM
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steve40th
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Default C4 Alignment Tuesday...

Getting it aligned after rebuilding front etc. I have a 93, offset bushings, new everything up front.
I will be autocrossing it (BSP, fun only not going to win this class here), yet get barely a couple thousand miles a year here in Hawaii.
I have asked before, and looked at VB&P alignment recommendations. I know I cant have my cake and eat it too, but I was going to go a little aggressive for the street regardless.
I was looking at -1.75 front camber, 1/8 toe out and -1.25 rear camber with 1/16 toe in.
My Vette is lowered quite a bit too, and have ZO7 89 springs, 32S and 26S rear bars, and QA1's and BD+FG KD 315 r, 275 f.
WHat do you think?
Old 09-06-2008, 02:35 PM
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BrianCunningham
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You can always pull the shims before an event.

Aligning our cars is not that difficult

http://www.vettenet.org/align.html
Old 09-06-2008, 02:42 PM
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steve40th
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Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
You can always pull the shims before an event.

Aligning our cars is not that difficult

http://www.vettenet.org/align.html
If I pull the shims, I dont want the rear to be too much apart from the front. I am under the impression you dont want front to rear to be more than .5 camber off, ie 1.75f 1.25 rear, or you will have understeer issues?
Old 09-06-2008, 04:09 PM
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the blur
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your not getting 1.75 in the front unless you mill those spacers.
although with the lowering, it may be different.....
Old 09-06-2008, 04:19 PM
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steve40th
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Originally Posted by the blur
your not getting 1.75 in the front unless you mill those spacers.
although with the lowering, it may be different.....
I have offset lower control arm bushings, and its lowered. I think I can get much more.
Old 09-06-2008, 04:32 PM
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BrianCunningham
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Originally Posted by steve40th
If I pull the shims, I dont want the rear to be too much apart from the front. I am under the impression you dont want front to rear to be more than .5 camber off, ie 1.75f 1.25 rear, or you will have understeer issues?
It will understeer on the street, but you'll save your tires.

But now it will perform on the track.

If you get adjustable links for the rear, which kicks you into SM2, then the rear is easily adjustable.
Old 09-06-2008, 05:15 PM
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Sidney004
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I have the offset bushings in mine as well. The 1.75, 1.25 does not sound aggresive enough. I am running 2.25, 1.75 right now and it is pretty good. Next time, I am going to bump it up to 2.75, 2.25. I have 3/32 toe in at the rear, I don't run toe out on the front but mine is not an autoX setup.
Old 09-06-2008, 06:30 PM
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96GS#007
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Originally Posted by steve40th
Getting it aligned after rebuilding front etc. I have a 93, offset bushings, new everything up front.
I will be autocrossing it (BSP, fun only not going to win this class here), yet get barely a couple thousand miles a year here in Hawaii.
I have asked before, and looked at VB&P alignment recommendations. I know I cant have my cake and eat it too, but I was going to go a little aggressive for the street regardless.
I was looking at -1.75 front camber, 1/8 toe out and -1.25 rear camber with 1/16 toe in.
My Vette is lowered quite a bit too, and have ZO7 89 springs, 32S and 26S rear bars, and QA1's and BD+FG KD 315 r, 275 f.
WHat do you think?
-2.1 in the front, -1.5 in the rear. Toss a couple shims in the front if you intend to do a lot of street driving.

If you can get more in the front, do it. Even at -2.1, mine pushes but that's all I can get out of it.
Old 09-06-2008, 11:13 PM
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What size tires are you guys running? There isnt much room in the back, for inner fenderwell clearnace?
Also, any pictures from the side to see what your alignments look like?
I like the 2.25-2.5 front, 1.75-2.00 rear. My rear is narrowed 13mm, so it will be tight.
Old 09-07-2008, 12:25 AM
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Right now, I am running 275/40-17's up front and 295/40-17's in the rear, but I will be switching to 280/640-18 Hoosier slicks up front and 305/680-18 Hoosier slicks in the rear shortly on ZO6 10.5's. I don't anticipate a clearance problem but we will see.
Old 09-07-2008, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Sidney004
Right now, I am running 275/40-17's up front and 295/40-17's in the rear, but I will be switching to 280/640-18 Hoosier slicks up front and 305/680-18 Hoosier slicks in the rear shortly on ZO6 10.5's. I don't anticipate a clearance problem but we will see.
Your tires should clear just fine.
Old 09-07-2008, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by steve40th
What size tires are you guys running? There isnt much room in the back, for inner fenderwell clearnace?
Also, any pictures from the side to see what your alignments look like?
I like the 2.25-2.5 front, 1.75-2.00 rear. My rear is narrowed 13mm, so it will be tight.
I run 335's on 17x12's, they just stick out a bit.
Old 09-10-2008, 03:10 AM
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Before, remember this is eyeballed alignment in driveway. So much for Lasix surgery

And after. Couldnt get any more camber due to rear tires rubbing inside too bad, as mine is narrowed and really lowered.

And this is what I ran originally in all my other autocsrossing.
Old 09-10-2008, 09:07 AM
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C4's don't need a lot of rear camber. With a 315 or larger rear tire I wouldn't go more than -1*. A general rule of thumb is to keep the rears within 0.5* or the front, but this is certainly not a requirement. Does your car push or oversteer? These are the questions to ask prior to changing things...

I personally go about -2 to -2.5* front and about -1* rear with 275 tires front, 315 rear.
Old 09-10-2008, 11:14 AM
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You can't run that much rear camber. I tried, and the car felt terrible.
Old 09-10-2008, 11:39 AM
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Well, I am not changing it now, too much money here in Hawaii. The posters in the beginning of this said I could/and they do, run good bit of negative camber in the rear. I have, over the years asked for alignments and I did what was within the requests (I did a search and looked at data), so if the rear is too much for autocross, it wont matter as I wont be too competetive in BSP anyways, but the alignment will be better than what I had.
It never really turned well and the back end would come around easily.
Oh well.
Old 09-10-2008, 01:25 PM
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If you do it again I would knock the rear camber down to around 1 degree, up the rear toe to 1/4 inch total (with stock bushings) and knock the front caster WAY down 6.5- 7.0 max.
just my $.02

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Old 09-11-2008, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DALE C
If you do it again I would knock the rear camber down to around 1 degree, up the rear toe to 1/4 inch total (with stock bushings) and knock the front caster WAY down 6.5- 7.0 max.
just my $.02
How do I change Caster without messing the alignment up?
Old 09-11-2008, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by steve40th
How do I change Caster without messing the alignment up?
You will have to align the car again but with the offset bushings you should be able to maintain your front camber and lower the caster.
Old 09-11-2008, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DALE C
You will have to align the car again but with the offset bushings you should be able to maintain your front camber and lower the caster.
I was afraid of that


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