When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Nope. GTO: 5x120. Vette: 5x120.7. The studs will need to bend a little.
I'll need to shim the hubs 0.35mm to get the wheel snugged up well.
I didn't like the idea of bending the studs 0.3mm, then I discovered that
my "GTO fitment" CCW wheels are actually 5x120.7, 70.2mm bore! So
I've been running Corvette fitment for a year...
Sperkins: You might have a little more life in yours. Mine get pitched when they fracture thru. It has always happened while they are cooling off. I look for the the big cracks before going out and sometimes miss them, but your first hard stop will result in peddle vibration. Sometimes the vibration is subtle like a small fracture in a rear rotor and sometimes it feels like a big hunk of rotor is missing. In either case I write off the session and bring the car in for a rotor change.
I had new Chinese/BPI/Rockauto rotors on the car in October at Road America. I had lots of vibration beginning at the second or third lap, but could not find a crack and attributed vibration to DTC-70 pad material. My neighbor had the same vibration with new rotors and DTC-70 pads.
The scary part was that one of the fronts had a small fracture on the INSIDE surface at the I.D. where you could not see it on the car. I found this when switching to my street pads & rotors after the weekend.
Flink: I can't believe how bad your rotors look! I can't imagine getting more that one session out of those. Those are done.
Best I could tell from your pics, you've got normal heat checks and still have some life in your rotors. Use Flinks' photos to find an upper limit to how long to run your rotors.
I've run heat-checked rotors for several seasons before the cracks grew to the point I could catch a fingernail on them, then I replaced them. Never did get a fatal crack in them, though.
EEEEEEEEgads man, this rotor isn't safe to go around the block let alone stopping a 3500# car at speed!! Junk em, get cheap napa's or rockauto's, about $18 each! That's all I ran on my C5 with no prob's. I say that as I'm junking my whole Z-51 front rotors and going to smooth (smaller!) C5 rotors. Freakin' drilled rotors are for show only, let me repeat myself here, show only!!
Became aware in the middle of race track, (I remember exact spot),talking to my friend MArvin Brittenham from Denver, told how he end O'd his Mallett c5 coupe at 120ish when his rotor cracked, He had actually had felt "something" just before he went out. Now I'm careful on all rotors, and I'm really disappointed with the Z-51 rotors. (constant cracks) yup, bigger but nobody makes replacement smooth rotors. I'm doing fewer HPDE these days so cost is to prohibative to upgrade. chuck
Here's a couple of pictures from my '03 ZO6. The RF rotor has some surface cracking, the worst being about a 1/2" long. The LF has some pretty serious heat spots, but no cracking. I'm still on the stock rotors with Carbotech pads (8/10). How bad can the cracks get before it's time to swap out the rotors? Sorry for the bad pics, but it's the best I can do with the POS camera I have.
That is what my rf looked like before my last session at VIR. I didn't think it would make 30 mins, but unfortunately, my motor cracked first. I plan on just trashing mine. I scour the FS section and buy all the low mileage rotors that people are getting rid of when upgrading to d/s. Usually get a set of 4 for ~$70 shipped. Makes it easier to trash borderline rotors. Why take a chance on a $40 part. Hope to see you on the track soon.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.