Can I Get One More Track Day On This Rotor ?
01-17-2009, 09:31 AM
#23
Instructor
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Howie - I've always heard you should replace rotors in pairs. However, I had the same problem as you with my "bling" rotors (drilled rotors I use on the street). I replaced just one with no problem.
I also have a stack of stock rotors I use for the track and try to keep them paired up. However, I've mixed them before with no ill effects.
John
I also have a stack of stock rotors I use for the track and try to keep them paired up. However, I've mixed them before with no ill effects.
John
01-17-2009, 10:43 AM
#24
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Rotors are cheap and expendable. NO WAY I would run that rotor on the track. It might be a mild thumping crack when it goes, or it could be a major failure putting you into the tirewall or worse. Why risk it ??
01-17-2009, 04:15 PM
#25
Team Owner
Thread Starter
OKAY, OKAY, OKAY !!!!!!!!
Due to the overwhelmingly strong advise I am going to replace the rotor. I truly appreciate the experienced opinions
I don't want to unnecessarily jeopardize my car or my fellow track mates .... points well taken
So my only question now which was addressed by a couple of you ..... will I have even braking if I run a almost new rotor on one side and a used on the other side. We are talking front rotors.
DH
Due to the overwhelmingly strong advise I am going to replace the rotor. I truly appreciate the experienced opinions
I don't want to unnecessarily jeopardize my car or my fellow track mates .... points well taken
So my only question now which was addressed by a couple of you ..... will I have even braking if I run a almost new rotor on one side and a used on the other side. We are talking front rotors.
DH
01-17-2009, 04:19 PM
#26
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
You really should mount new front rotors on both sides - only a few bucks for the rotor and a little labor time. Personally, I wouldn't mix a new and "very worn" rotor on the front or rear, unless the other rotor has low wear and in great condition.
Last edited by Gray Ghost GS; 01-17-2009 at 05:05 PM.
01-17-2009, 04:22 PM
#27
Team Owner
Thread Starter
DH
01-17-2009, 04:32 PM
#28
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
01-17-2009, 04:39 PM
#29
Le Mans Master
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Howie, that rotor has had only one track day and that was at Lime Rock (minimum brake requirement) plus some street miles, all on the OE Ferodo DS2500 pads. You should have no compatability issues after you bed it in a little bit to your current pads. BTW, I found the other one!
01-17-2009, 05:08 PM
#30
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Howie, that rotor has had only one track day and that was at Lime Rock (minimum brake requirement) plus some street miles, all on the OE Ferodo DS2500 pads. You should have no compatability issues after you bed it in a little bit to your current pads. BTW, I found the other one!
Thanks for the advise.
Please send the rotor to me. I know I gotta pay the shipping this time. You are the best
DH
01-18-2009, 03:25 AM
#31
Drifting
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Change both and keep the 'good' old one for a spare to get you home from the track in case you loose one at the track. Tom
01-18-2009, 05:20 PM
#32
Team Owner
Thread Starter
01-18-2009, 07:55 PM
#33
Drifting
replace it. It's done. Too risky to have it come apart, though the most likely outcome is a short session and an unpleasent thunking sound. However, where I track, it costs $150/day. That's around $37/session (four sessions a day). Thus, if you miss one, that's the cost. Many places around the country are double that price. So replace it.
01-18-2009, 08:00 PM
#34
Le Mans Master
01-23-2009, 08:14 PM
#36
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Changed both front rotors
The hairline cracks were well away from the edge. No cracking at all on the inside of the rotor. No cracking at all on the passenger front. But there was a pretty good lip on the rotor edges from pad wear.
I think they held up pretty good. 18K miles, 4 or 5 track days (can't remember) and one canyon carving day.
DH
The hairline cracks were well away from the edge. No cracking at all on the inside of the rotor. No cracking at all on the passenger front. But there was a pretty good lip on the rotor edges from pad wear.
I think they held up pretty good. 18K miles, 4 or 5 track days (can't remember) and one canyon carving day.
DH
01-23-2009, 10:33 PM
#37
But yeah DH those rotors are toast but have Frank bring it by my house I'll weld it for you...how's that?
01-24-2009, 01:16 AM
#38
Team Owner
Thread Starter
..... The one rotor with the cracks actually looks much worse on the picture I posted. But I feel better having replaced them with fresher ones.DH
01-24-2009, 01:38 AM
#39
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Is this common on the vette? On the GTO I find that the outboard side of the
rotor gets a lot more heatchecking and that the outer pads wear much faster
than the inside ones. HT-10's with no ducting wore at about twice the rate.
DTC-60's with ducting is not so bad: maybe 1.5x.
From which I can only conclude that the cooling on the outside face is much
worse and it's running a lot hotter. However the temperature indicating paint
across the rotor edge looked the same color right across (1500F according to
my reading of the color chart).
I'll be feeding a second duct into there soon, mainly in an attempt to extend pad
and rotor life.
rotor gets a lot more heatchecking and that the outer pads wear much faster
than the inside ones. HT-10's with no ducting wore at about twice the rate.
DTC-60's with ducting is not so bad: maybe 1.5x.
From which I can only conclude that the cooling on the outside face is much
worse and it's running a lot hotter. However the temperature indicating paint
across the rotor edge looked the same color right across (1500F according to
my reading of the color chart).
I'll be feeding a second duct into there soon, mainly in an attempt to extend pad
and rotor life.