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I still have figured out how to use the jacking points suggested by GM. If I put the jack where the panels are wleded the just bend over. I assume it's just fiberglass further in.
Anyway, why can't I use the leaf spring to jack up the rear? Right between the two mounting points for the spring on the rear end.
What do you think?
I usually use the areas suggested in another post, but I need to put jack stands there to work under the car, so I need another place to jack up the car.
I'll jack on the frame rails including using a piece of wood to get both sides of the rear where the zr1 guy puts his safety jacks.
I know a guy who used to run with the SSSCC, Bob, used to raise his 90 convertible (though it had the stock x-brace) but with a floor jack on the fiberglass/frame in the center of the door and just change both side wheels at the same time. He did it all the time and never had any issues.
I think a lot of this jacking stuff (top on for the windshield, off to protect the top, open the hood to relieve stress, close it for rigidity, open the hatch so it doesn't flex and break.... on and on) is just internet rumors. You can probably jack any where that is solid and be fine.
I'll jack on the frame rails including using a piece of wood to get both sides of the rear where the zr1 guy puts his safety jacks.
I know a guy who used to run with the SSSCC, Bob, used to raise his 90 convertible (though it had the stock x-brace) but with a floor jack on the fiberglass/frame in the center of the door and just change both side wheels at the same time. He did it all the time and never had any issues.
I think a lot of this jacking stuff (top on for the windshield, off to protect the top, open the hood to relieve stress, close it for rigidity, open the hatch so it doesn't flex and break.... on and on) is just internet rumors. You can probably jack any where that is solid and be fine.
I raise my C4 near the center of the doors too. What you do have to be careful with is a small threaded stud behind the welded seams about midway between the factory jacking points.
On the driver's side, it holds a clip for the brake lines. On the passenger side, the stud holds the fuel lines. A flat jack pad will most likely not hurt either one, but I marked a red vertical line on the black part of the lower facia to indicate where the studs are and simply place the jack pad to the back side of the mark.
Using those lift points, I can get my car off the ground and on jack stands in about 5 minutes. I don't release the hood, open the doors or lowere the windows either. The car raises easily from the middle with no indication of any body twist or flex.
I raise my C4 near the center of the doors too. What you do have to be careful with is a small threaded stud behind the welded seams about midway between the factory jacking points.
Using those lift points, I can get my car off the ground and on jack stands in about 5 minutes. I don't release the hood, open the doors or lowere the windows either. The car raises easily from the middle with no indication of any body twist or flex.
I used to jack at the factory points, open the hatch, etc, but once in a while I would get in a hurry and not bother and didn't notice any difference. Then I was at a race and saw another C4 jack in the middle of the door. That is so much quicker and easier than jacking the front end and trying to get the jackstand in place then going to the rear to get it up, then repeat on the other side.
Anyone have pics of the proper placement of the mid door jacking or the "rear view mirror" jacking? This is new to me, and I don't want to do something stupid. LOL...all I want to do is change the oil for now...
The black plastic with the jacking arrows is dented on mine. I've been thinking of filing it flush with the metal there. I do use that area for a floor jack and it does dent the plastic a little bit.
I'd like to try to avoid any damage. The thread/links above show where stands should be placed, and he's placed hockey pucks in his jack. That is a GREAT idea. I'll head down to play it again and see if they have any. My big question is how to get the jack into position. He shows the seems, but I'm thinking I might need a smaller sized jack. The one I have is pretty large. It's the one with the 4-5' handle attached. I want to say it's a 5 ton.
Like others have said, put the jack on the rib that sticks down under the rocker panel. I go under the mirror on the doors and both front and rear come off the ground at the same time. No open hood or latch nonsense, you wont hurt anything keeping it all closed.
I just looked under there. There's no damage to the rocker at all. I didn't jack it yet. Seems like the "jacking location" is a little far rear. You say you go under the mirror and jack "right on" the plastic piece lip that hangs down? Looks like someone got a little far in once, there's a slight indentation behind the "jacking location". Not bad, but you can tell. I'll definately drive it up on 2x4's for this. I'm just concerned and a worry wort. Geez, i wish I knew someone local that owned a vette...lol.
Hey, check this out, Pictures ..."for people like me"...lol...
I just looked under there. There's no damage to the rocker at all. I didn't jack it yet. Seems like the "jacking location" is a little far rear. You say you go under the mirror and jack "right on" the plastic piece lip that hangs down? Looks like someone got a little far in once, there's a slight indentation behind the "jacking location". Not bad, but you can tell. I'll definately drive it up on 2x4's for this. I'm just concerned and a worry wort. Geez, i wish I knew someone local that owned a vette...lol.
Hey, check this out, Pictures ..."for people like me"...lol...
Yes if you follow the mirror down to the lip under the rocker, jack there to get both wheels off the ground. But like you said dont go too far in or you can put a hole in the floor.
I would NOT rest the on wooden blocks like in that link. That is very very dangerous! Jackstands are the only thing that should be used when working under a car.
BTW, I jack slightly rear of the mirror, more like at the steering wheel to get front and rear up even, but yes, on that "thin little flange".
Been doing it for years with no problems.
Was at the dealer today. Put it on the lift and started asking questions. There are parts of the rocker vertical flange that have 4 pieces of medal there. The seems if you will. This is the strongest part. You can actually see these sections. They flare away from each other 1/4-1/2 inch. This is where you should jack from what I understand. Also, many of the other threads are correct for jackstand placement. There's a flat piece of medal by the S curve of the flange "if that makes sense", i'll put them there. There was also a couple of places inner lower control arms that was supposed to be ok. I question that though.
I'll take pics and post them, clear up any fog. Very cool to learn about this car. The more I learn about it, the more comfortable I become and really enjoy the car.
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