Which Rotors do you Road Course on?
07-23-2009, 03:15 PM
#21
Team Owner
There are some measurements you need to check with your rotors. The critical one is the "air gap". A lot of companies are enlarging the air gap (the width of the vanes actually). This means it takes less steel to make a rotor. When you use less steel you can make a lot more money.
There are several lawsuits over this. The Feds say they're "monitoring the situation. Raybestos is running some informative ads in the trade publications over the whole situation.
I've got an article coming out shortly in Corvette Fever that gets into all the details.
Richard Newton
Race Cars 360
There are several lawsuits over this. The Feds say they're "monitoring the situation. Raybestos is running some informative ads in the trade publications over the whole situation.
I've got an article coming out shortly in Corvette Fever that gets into all the details.
Richard Newton
Race Cars 360
07-23-2009, 07:23 PM
#22
Platinum Supporting Vendor
I know you said you dont like the cheep ones but i have been getting 2 or 3 events out of a set of Napa Rotors .... At 40 bucks each I dont think i can beat that deal. Say I moved to a 200 buck rotor I do not think its going to last 4 times as long ... I do try and take care of them at HPDE ... I am not running at 100% every lap I may go ***** to the walls a few laps then run 80% to let them cool down and run again ... then after checker flag if possible I try to never touch the brakes..... running through the pits down the road for a few minutes to cool them down ....
07-31-2009, 06:18 PM
#24
Safety Car
This is the best explanation I've seen in the differences between the cheap rotors and the good ones.
btw - I just priced new rotors from Wilwood. It's $189 for just the dam* rotor. I've already got the top hats.I'm seriously thinking about giving up on the two piece rotor and going with something like the Raybestos. I only run track days and I never had a problem with regular rotors.
Richard Newton
btw - I just priced new rotors from Wilwood. It's $189 for just the dam* rotor. I've already got the top hats.I'm seriously thinking about giving up on the two piece rotor and going with something like the Raybestos. I only run track days and I never had a problem with regular rotors.
Richard Newton
07-31-2009, 07:20 PM
#26
07-31-2009, 08:16 PM
#27
Racer
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So far, 4 hard track days on the DBA 4000's and they are still looking very good. I'm thinking they will last 10 events. Mosport is not terrible on brakes, but my OEM fronts would develop hairline cracks after a couple of sessions and be pretty much toast after a full track day, two at the most.
I think the biggest difference is this year I also had my shop install some custom duct cooling to blow air directly onto the rotors. Haven't had any fluid issues at all (I use Motul RBF 600) and I'm sure it's contributing to the rotor life. Very cheap mod, too. I forget what he charged me, but it was peanuts compared to the price of rotors and pads.
The Carbo pads are quite nice. Not the best feel for modulation, but still adequate in that department. But they wear very well. Maybe 5 or 6 days on a set of fronts. Just switched to their 1-piece front pads and have had 2 days on 'em. I'll see how long they last, but I'm guessing even longer than the padlets b/c larger surface area.
I think the biggest difference is this year I also had my shop install some custom duct cooling to blow air directly onto the rotors. Haven't had any fluid issues at all (I use Motul RBF 600) and I'm sure it's contributing to the rotor life. Very cheap mod, too. I forget what he charged me, but it was peanuts compared to the price of rotors and pads.
The Carbo pads are quite nice. Not the best feel for modulation, but still adequate in that department. But they wear very well. Maybe 5 or 6 days on a set of fronts. Just switched to their 1-piece front pads and have had 2 days on 'em. I'll see how long they last, but I'm guessing even longer than the padlets b/c larger surface area.
07-31-2009, 08:49 PM
#29
Race Director
Yes, on my car I could even see the hood jump up and down. I've found uneven pad deposits to be more of a fast light pulsing and cracks to be more of a heavy slower frequency pulsing.
07-31-2009, 09:29 PM
#30
Safety Car
I've cracked them and never noticed a thing on the track. When I got back into the pits I could hear a weird ticking sound under light brake application.
I also seen some really good drivers never even notice a cracked rotor. The cracked rotor was only found when we did a visual inspection. That's why your car should be looked at very carefully before you go back for the next session.
Richard Newton
I also seen some really good drivers never even notice a cracked rotor. The cracked rotor was only found when we did a visual inspection. That's why your car should be looked at very carefully before you go back for the next session.
Richard Newton
08-01-2009, 10:38 AM
#31
Safety Car
I put new rear rotors on my truck, and I did indeed notice they were THIN. These rotors are definately disposable. 1 set of pads= new rotors.
They were rock auto specials. I forget the brand.
They were rock auto specials. I forget the brand.
08-01-2009, 11:44 AM
#32
Le Mans Master
In my experience all the high end two piece rotors with aluminum hats are really good quality. Personally I use stoptechs (the entire 14" kit) and have found they last extremely long. I've used their stuff on race cars in the past with same results. FWIW, my most recent replacement rings from them are cast in Italy. From some very trustworthy sources I've been told that performance friction makes about as good a rotor as anyone. Brembo, alcon, and AP are up there as well. In most cases you get what you pay for with this stuff.
08-01-2009, 09:57 PM
#34
Drifting
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Just bought new replacement rings after 70+ sessions got about 50 sessions on the front pads.
When i used to run Hawk DTC-70 and DTC60 I would get about 16 sessions on the pads and the NAPA rotors.
Last edited by geerookie; 08-02-2009 at 08:00 AM. Reason: spelling
08-01-2009, 10:20 PM
#35
Drifting
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I run Rock Auto or NAPA rotors. Carbotech 12 F and 10 R. Ducting.
Bob
08-01-2009, 10:29 PM
#36
Melting Slicks
In my experience driving and hanging out with some very "seasoned" track rats, rotors crack during cool down. Its very improtant to give them a proper cool down and actually move the car a few feet about 5 minutes after parking. this will get the hot pads on a different spot on the rotors. I have yet to see a rotor crack under heavy braking. I notice it when heading out for a session or checking the car out for an upcoming session.
I run Rock Auto or NAPA rotors. Carbotech 12 F and 10 R. Ducting.
Bob
I run Rock Auto or NAPA rotors. Carbotech 12 F and 10 R. Ducting.
Bob
In all honesty, I run stock rotors from napa/oem style as well.
I run Carbotech XP10 F and XP8 R... they heat spot them but the rotors last just fine for me, for the price they really can't be beat.
I don't even have any ducting beside stock, it is on my to do list tho.
08-01-2009, 11:16 PM
#37
Instructor
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I recently switched to ATE rotors with HP+ pads. At the end of my second track day, the front rotors were warped and showed surface cracking. Stay away from ATE if you track your car.
I have a new set of OEM GM rotors with a new set of HP+ pads that I am going to switch to. Hopefully I will get better results.
I run Cobalt XR3/XR5 on my other track car (Integra) and have been very impressed. I went with the HP+ on the Vette out of sheer laziness. Wanted to avoid swapping pads after an HPDE.
I have a new set of OEM GM rotors with a new set of HP+ pads that I am going to switch to. Hopefully I will get better results.
I run Cobalt XR3/XR5 on my other track car (Integra) and have been very impressed. I went with the HP+ on the Vette out of sheer laziness. Wanted to avoid swapping pads after an HPDE.
08-02-2009, 05:10 AM
#38
I have DBA4000 fronts with Hawks HP+ and just HP+ on the stock rear rotors in the back. The stock fronts have gave up with two track days while the DBA4000 is approaching 12 events and i think i can go 2-3 more on them.
08-02-2009, 09:58 AM
#39
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