Zenak

Battery Section Updated today.

picklz

Just curious if you still advocate the use of Full TC or Comp mode after the issues you experienced leading to your crash? I see in the 'guide' it's still suggested to use it.

redhot400

Great article! Thanks sooooo much for all your time and commitment to us corvette folks. I noticed on your avatar your a corvette addict I'd say I'm right there with you since my lastest C6 Z51 Track car is the eighth Vette I've owned in my 67 years on this planet.

Thanks Again, by the way has anyone done this for a C6 ?

Zenak

the 97-01 is the only years with the TC issues. It happens mostly with heavily modified cars more than stock ones. I still suggest that a rookie gets more benefits form the computer nannies then harm, especially if if saves them in a spin out while they are learning the limits of their car in street tires. Same for wet traction, the computer helps.

Once you skill increases, the computer becomes a threat more than a help IMHO. So Skill and conditions based is your answer.

Elcanadiense

I've got a 2001 Z06 that I track. Can I upgrade my TC system with a +2002 system and avoid this issues? It may be a pricey endeavor but still cheaper than the a car rebuild after hitting the wall.

BTW, Zenak I can't thank you enought for your thread!!!

crimlwC6

It would be cheaper and better to do a driving school and learn to run without TC. If you want TC and a vette, it would be better to sell and simply buy a car with the TC system you want if you are concerned. After getting an ABS light over a year ago, I've simply disconnected the ABS computer.

rustyguns

you need to build your driving skills to the point you turn off the TC.

Nice thing about 97-00 cars, is it really does go completely off.
To be sure, I made sure to get a 99 without active handling.

FYI ABS is your friend. you can stop a lot faster and not worry about flat spotting your tires.

All the drivers i know that swear by threshold braking have all flat spotted a tire. Tha'ts $350-450 bucks gone in seconds
If they say otherwise they are lying or just slow

RX-Ben

What makes you think the '01+ cars don't fully disable TC/AH?

Bad thing about pre-01' ABS is that replacement ABS modules are like $900 (used) and up ($2k new). I just got a spare '01 module for $150 shipped, and they can be repaired for the common relay problem, unlike the earlier ones, for $50. '01+ also has active rear proportioning, which is a plus.
You can probably convert your pre-01 ABS to an '01+ system but I don't know anyone that has done so.

The main tricks to keep ABS happy on the track are to ensure your grounds are good and ensure that your ABS sensor wires are safe (i.e., out of the way of moving parts and wrapped in heat shielding).

BoostedEBZ06

Don't talk to me about flat spotted tires lol I installed Russell SS lines well that quickly rendered my ABS inop due to the impedance problem they have. I ended up locking up my brakes and flat spotting my tires on one of my sessions. -_-

Zenak

AS much as I would like to say that "Im too good for ABS" fact is that if you are a weekend warrior racer. HPDE, etc you just dont get enough pedal time to not make a mistake now and again. And if your getting into the ABS once ina blue moon, while it stings your pride... and Mine has been stung by the ABS reminding e I messed up... it saves you $$$ on tire bills. So oh well, my pride is cheaper then tires. ABS isnt a bad thing all the time. Would be great to be driving more, and get a better pedal. But C5 Vette pedals tend to "go away" as the fluid gets hot. And the pressure isnt always consistent on stock C5 brakes to keep a consistent pedal feel.

rustyguns

could not have said it any better. kudos!

Joshboody

Awesome thread... I'm now in the market for a C5 track toy.

Curious about the poly vs rubber bushings. I haven't seen any info for a mid-level option like a harder rubber. Is it simply 2 choices 1 grade of rubber or poly? Other platforms have various rubber options IIRC.

LateBreak

Poly is basically the harder rubber option, from there you can step up to delrin or solid sphericals for further reduction of deflection in exchange for some added NVH. For what it's worth, I have put solid steel bushings in a street car (G-Body) before and didn't mind them at all, the increased freedom of movement really let the suspension work and I didn't notice anything being more harsh or noisy. YMMV...

Chris Edwards

Is this common with Russell lines or just a bleeding issue? I'm about to install Russell lines and i certainly want to make sure the abs works correctly.

Chris Edwards

Ttt

Zenak

Stock break lines are rubber, and NOT recommended for racing application as they fail and when they do its not pretty. Especially the stock lines as the car gets older. if the car wintered etc they get hot cold hot cold hot cold. SS lines of any kind are really recommended. I like the DRM lines kit.

rustyguns

but steel or not, they are only as good as attachment to the connection fittings on each end. That is where it costs $ to build good ones!

All C5's need all rubber replaced, they are old now !!!! bushings, torque tube quidos, belts, hoses engine mounts etc etc

Zenak

Wow, we are almost at 100,000 viewers for this thread! Woo Hoo!

tytek

Are you back to tracking a car yet? Future plans?

I learned a lot from this thread and very much appreciate your, and everyone else's hard work.

Any prescription that you can suggest to beat the track addiction syndrome?

rustyguns

Only thing remotely close is shooting Heroine ! LOL and you build up a tolerance for it!

Track addiction is always low tolerance Big High !

damn good thread, wish it was around when I started! would have a saved lot of $$$