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Help me fix my understeer problem

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Old 10-20-2009, 10:21 AM
  #21  
fej
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I think that most of the problem stems from the 275/335 combo. I ran 275/315 V710's for quite a while, and found a ton more turn in, and way less push with a 315/335 (18/17) combo, and a 305/315 (18/18) combo. I have not gotten to a square set up yet, but maybe next season. I like my fenders with factory clearance (at least for now).

G'luck
Fej
Old 10-20-2009, 12:08 PM
  #22  
kwhiteside
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Originally Posted by drivinhard
that "cuping" is normal. they all do that.

looking at the edges, you could use more camber, but the car may still be a street car so...
I don't need to set my car up for street anymore. I can go pure track if I want to. That said, I'm having this revelation about Camber.

Camber tilts the top of the tire in so that if it were a daily driver the insides of the tires would wear out, but since we are pushing/ sliding it gives you a a more equal distribution across the surface. In my case without the full race setup, my tires are tilting so more pressure is on the outside of the tire. So if I go full race, I'll use a little more of the inside and thus it might feel like I'm getting a bit more grip
Old 10-20-2009, 01:07 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by kwhiteside
I don't need to set my car up for street anymore. I can go pure track if I want to. That said, I'm having this revelation about Camber.

Camber tilts the top of the tire in so that if it were a daily driver the insides of the tires would wear out, but since we are pushing/ sliding it gives you a a more equal distribution across the surface. In my case without the full race setup, my tires are tilting so more pressure is on the outside of the tire. So if I go full race, I'll use a little more of the inside and thus it might feel like I'm getting a bit more grip
adding chamber will help a ton for sure. Having the right suspension settings is everything. However, I also dont think those 275s up front are helping any.
Old 10-20-2009, 01:16 PM
  #24  
kwhiteside
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Originally Posted by Kubs
adding chamber will help a ton for sure. Having the right suspension settings is everything. However, I also dont think those 275s up front are helping any.
Going to have to try my ZR1 17X11 wheels on the front and see if they clear the Wilwood Calipers. If they do, I might just get another pair and put 315's on them.

335 backs
315 fronts

would pretty much be a traction monster don't you think?
Old 10-20-2009, 01:21 PM
  #25  
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fej - Those are your wheels on the front

kubs - Those are your rubber on the back
Old 10-20-2009, 01:32 PM
  #26  
drivinhard
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Originally Posted by kwhiteside
Going to have to try my ZR1 17X11 wheels on the front and see if they clear the Wilwood Calipers. If they do, I might just get another pair and put 315's on them.

335 backs
315 fronts

would pretty much be a traction monster don't you think?
are these repro 17x11's or OEM GM?

if you like the V710, the 305/18 would fit well enough on the C5Z rear 18x10.5's speedlines, they will clear almost all aftermarket brakes (good spoke clearance), they are very very light/strong, and you'd be square for better at track rotation. would be a good HPDE set up
Old 10-20-2009, 01:44 PM
  #27  
kwhiteside
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Originally Posted by drivinhard
are these repro 17x11's or OEM GM?

if you like the V710, the 305/18 would fit well enough on the C5Z rear 18x10.5's speedlines, they will clear almost all aftermarket brakes (good spoke clearance), they are very very light/strong, and you'd be square for better at track rotation. would be a good HPDE set up
I hear you. My instructor at Road Atlanta (Fred Turner) has the 18/10.5 with 315's all the way around. His car was on rails, I couldn't believe how it handled.

Problem is I've got so much invested in the 17 setup. I'm feeling the recomdations to go 18" though.
Old 10-20-2009, 02:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by kwhiteside
I hear you. My instructor at Road Atlanta (Fred Turner) has the 18/10.5 with 315's all the way around. His car was on rails, I couldn't believe how it handled.

Problem is I've got so much invested in the 17 setup. I'm feeling the recomdations to go 18" though.
sell used 17's
buy used 18's.

you won't have much out of pocket to make up the difference
Old 10-20-2009, 02:36 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kwhiteside
(Fred Turner) ...with 315's... was on rails,
It'd have felt the same on 275's.
Old 10-20-2009, 02:45 PM
  #30  
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I'm just trying to figure out if I need 2 more 17" wheels for 275's or 2 more 18" wheels for 295's.
Old 10-20-2009, 03:07 PM
  #31  
drivinhard
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Originally Posted by sperkins
I'm just trying to figure out if I need 2 more 17" wheels for 275's or 2 more 18" wheels for 295's.
buy a whole set and have both

having run 275's on the 9.5, and the 10.5, (back to back, same day/track) the stability difference is huge.

makes me wish I had some 11" for the 295s
Old 10-20-2009, 03:46 PM
  #32  
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I am running the 305/315 18" OEM Speedlines on my car currently. I spent weeks and weeks looking for an OEM set, and ended up finding a pair on the forums that a guy started blasting to have powder coated, and ended up changing his mind. Paid $230 shipped for the pair Fortunately I have a friend who I do a lot of work through that took care of coating them black for me.

IMO for the cost, you could pick up a set of 18's and sell the 17's and buy scrubs for various configurations for around the same price (outside mount/balance costs).

They also allow for future BBK upgrades etc. It took me a while to come around on the 18" option, but I think it allows the best combination of tire options, scrubs, clearance for brake upgrades, and performance. And they bolt on without issue, although you will rub the inner fender pieces at full lock with a 305+.

G'luck
Fej
Old 10-20-2009, 03:57 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by drivinhard
buy a whole set and have both

having run 275's on the 9.5, and the 10.5, (back to back, same day/track) the stability difference is huge.

makes me wish I had some 11" for the 295s
The 295 on paper looks like a perfect fit for the 18x10.5
Old 10-20-2009, 04:12 PM
  #34  
drivinhard
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Originally Posted by sperkins
The 295 on paper looks like a perfect fit for the 18x10.5
it's very good
Old 10-20-2009, 04:40 PM
  #35  
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When you get it re-alingned make sure the eccentric bolts are properly torqued. I had to re-torque every time I had mine done. If you mark them you can check to see if they've moved.
Old 10-20-2009, 07:34 PM
  #36  
varkwso
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I have found entering a corner too fast, for the tires on front (due to wear or whatever), also makes the car understeer worse. Luckily you can power up the oversteer with the throttle if there is enough track left. Laps are faster from an entry speed minimizing initial understeer.

But Chris is right - do not chase bad tires.

May do Roebling in Nov with Chin - undecided at the moment. Will be there on the 16th with SeatTime.
Old 10-21-2009, 12:48 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by varkwso

But Chris is right - do not chase bad tires.

May do Roebling in Nov with Chin - undecided at the moment. Will be there on the 16th with SeatTime.
Was hoping to see you there. Just as well I guess, that blocking posture you take around the track might cause me to have to ride my brakes too much

Kidding of course, I do hope you make it. I'll get the full race camber, and I'll at least go back to my proven fronts and rotate them on Sunday. If I remember right, the right sweepers heading into the straight and then out of the straight are so fast you can get some push. Sure want to minimize that to have a good day.

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Old 10-21-2009, 09:07 PM
  #38  
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If you can go full time 'track' alignment.......

-2.6 front 1/8th toe out
-1.6 rear zero toe (1/16 -1/8th IN if you have sweepers)

Just my .02.....

275/315 isn't optimum......square works.......295/315 would be an improvement too
Old 10-21-2009, 09:32 PM
  #39  
kwhiteside
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Originally Posted by CP Thunder
If you can go full time 'track' alignment.......

-2.6 front 1/8th toe out
-1.6 rear zero toe (1/16 -1/8th IN if you have sweepers)

Just my .02.....

275/315 isn't optimum......square works.......295/315 would be an improvement too
was going to go by this pfadt alignment sheet, see attached. just a little different and I really don't know what is right, but I know pfadt is highly respected.

I hear you guys on the tires. Money, money, money. Ordered a Corbeau A4, and a set of DTC70 pads. I've got an extra set of 315 rubber, but the 17X9.5 wheels I put them on didn't catch the whole rubber patch. I'll try the 17X11's on the front soon and if they work, well, another $250 for a pair of rims. I would be rolling on 335/315 and have my 275's as extras if needed.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:46 AM
  #40  
varkwso
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Originally Posted by kwhiteside
was going to go by this pfadt alignment sheet, see attached. just a little different and I really don't know what is right, but I know pfadt is highly respected....
You are goinig to need 1/8 toe out in front and 1/8 toe in at the rear with the ~camber by CP Thunder. I run it full time on both my cars - tires on the street do fine - get enough track days to even the wear.

If you get behind me at Roebling - I will not block you. I have been known to even point/let EvoCool by.

Last edited by varkwso; 10-22-2009 at 06:48 AM.


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