Brake lines: Anyone still run original rubber on 2002?
#21
Bob,
I remember now that this was one of the big reasons why I've never upgraded--worried about issues w/ the fittings and installing them correctly. Is the install your issue w/the round banjo fittings etc? Or do they require service or something aggrevating that makes you not like the SS lines?
I remember now that this was one of the big reasons why I've never upgraded--worried about issues w/ the fittings and installing them correctly. Is the install your issue w/the round banjo fittings etc? Or do they require service or something aggrevating that makes you not like the SS lines?
Look at the DRM lines above. His lines are the best I have seen of the screw in types because there is only one fitting in the caliper then what appears to be DOT legal swagged 90 fitting on to the screw in fitting as opposed to some designs using non-dot 90 degree compression fittings. Is the DRM unit overkill? Maybe but I like it! And if the lines are typical AN-3 you can most likely use those same lines with a different screw in fitting when you change to a big brake kit. DOT is important because they have to do like a million whip cycles before failure. Is that overkill? Maybe but I like it.
#23
Team Owner
#24
Drifting
I have cracked my fair share of rotors, so I think I'm using my brakes as hard as anyone.
I was told by someone who prepares Corvettes for T1 that the reason that I have not spread my original calipers is that I run 500 degree brake fluids like LMA, Syntec & Super Blue. Run something with a 600 B.P. and you can get to temperatures that soften the cast aluminum.
I was told by someone who prepares Corvettes for T1 that the reason that I have not spread my original calipers is that I run 500 degree brake fluids like LMA, Syntec & Super Blue. Run something with a 600 B.P. and you can get to temperatures that soften the cast aluminum.
#25
Team Owner
I have cracked my fair share of rotors, so I think I'm using my brakes as hard as anyone.
I was told by someone who prepares Corvettes for T1 that the reason that I have not spread my original calipers is that I run 500 degree brake fluids like LMA, Syntec & Super Blue. Run something with a 600 B.P. and you can get to temperatures that soften the cast aluminum.
I was told by someone who prepares Corvettes for T1 that the reason that I have not spread my original calipers is that I run 500 degree brake fluids like LMA, Syntec & Super Blue. Run something with a 600 B.P. and you can get to temperatures that soften the cast aluminum.
#26
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#27
Former Vendor
Well the oem banjo block have about 1+ square inches of flat surface clamping down on the caliper and has an anti rotaional detent IIRC. The thpical aftermarket ss line have round banjo fittings that have as much surface area clamping that is the size of what the bolt is...probably 20% of oem. So the possiblilty of failure is so much higher. Did GM over engineer this feature? Maybe but I like it.
Look at the DRM lines above. His lines are the best I have seen of the screw in types because there is only one fitting in the caliper then what appears to be DOT legal swagged 90 fitting on to the screw in fitting as opposed to some designs using non-dot 90 degree compression fittings. Is the DRM unit overkill? Maybe but I like it! And if the lines are typical AN-3 you can most likely use those same lines with a different screw in fitting when you change to a big brake kit. DOT is important because they have to do like a million whip cycles before failure. Is that overkill? Maybe but I like it.
Look at the DRM lines above. His lines are the best I have seen of the screw in types because there is only one fitting in the caliper then what appears to be DOT legal swagged 90 fitting on to the screw in fitting as opposed to some designs using non-dot 90 degree compression fittings. Is the DRM unit overkill? Maybe but I like it! And if the lines are typical AN-3 you can most likely use those same lines with a different screw in fitting when you change to a big brake kit. DOT is important because they have to do like a million whip cycles before failure. Is that overkill? Maybe but I like it.
Our C4-C5 lines are 100 percent DOT approved.
Randy
#28
Race Director
I want to first start out by saying my car has only been driven in HPDE's. Maybe all out w2w racing is harder on the lines. I'm still using my original non-rebuilt calipers. I have always run stock Z06 pads on the street and Hawk DTC70's on the track. As FatBillyBob said, "did GM over engineer the brakes, I guess so, and I like it". I drive and brake as hard as anyone, actually I late brake a lot, so far so good. but now that this topic has come up, I'll inspect the lines more closely. 68k+ miles
Last edited by GeorgeZNJ; 03-14-2010 at 11:10 AM.
#29
Racer
I run SS lines because everyone runs them in my race class. Great reason eh??? I have not found a set of SS lines I like because they all use round banjo fittings or a rube goldberg of multiple screw in fittings. The OEM rubber line uses a banjo block which is a DOT legal darn near foolproof design. IMO the best lines for stock calipers would be SS banjo block lines.
Last edited by uberC5; 03-10-2011 at 06:03 PM. Reason: added info
#30
Team Owner
With age brake lines can look fine and collapse on the inside. I had a truck where I thought it was the caliper not releasing. It would then get hot and lock up. I installed new calipers on a big truck then found out it was the lines collapsed. They would let the caliper brake but not let the fluid back to release. Smart mechanic told me the tip to check.
#31
Drifting
Still have my OEM lines on my 02Z. Lots of track time on them too.
My friend switched his out last year on his 02Z. Not sure what brand, but the routing or length may not have been the same as OEM. His left front tire rubbed thru the SS braid and into the Teflon tube. The pedal hit the floor at the end of the brake zone in T5 at Road America.
If you do go aftermarket, make sure the lines can't touch anything.
My friend switched his out last year on his 02Z. Not sure what brand, but the routing or length may not have been the same as OEM. His left front tire rubbed thru the SS braid and into the Teflon tube. The pedal hit the floor at the end of the brake zone in T5 at Road America.
If you do go aftermarket, make sure the lines can't touch anything.
#32
Team Owner
Still have my OEM lines on my 02Z. Lots of track time on them too.
My friend switched his out last year on his 02Z. Not sure what brand, but the routing or length may not have been the same as OEM. His left front tire rubbed thru the SS braid and into the Teflon tube. The pedal hit the floor at the end of the brake zone in T5 at Road America.
If you do go aftermarket, make sure the lines can't touch anything.
My friend switched his out last year on his 02Z. Not sure what brand, but the routing or length may not have been the same as OEM. His left front tire rubbed thru the SS braid and into the Teflon tube. The pedal hit the floor at the end of the brake zone in T5 at Road America.
If you do go aftermarket, make sure the lines can't touch anything.
Last edited by John Shiels; 03-12-2011 at 11:25 AM.
#33
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Still have my OEM lines on my 02Z. Lots of track time on them too.
My friend switched his out last year on his 02Z. Not sure what brand, but the routing or length may not have been the same as OEM. His left front tire rubbed thru the SS braid and into the Teflon tube. The pedal hit the floor at the end of the brake zone in T5 at Road America.
If you do go aftermarket, make sure the lines can't touch anything.
My friend switched his out last year on his 02Z. Not sure what brand, but the routing or length may not have been the same as OEM. His left front tire rubbed thru the SS braid and into the Teflon tube. The pedal hit the floor at the end of the brake zone in T5 at Road America.
If you do go aftermarket, make sure the lines can't touch anything.