How many hours of HPDE driving did you get out of your C6 Z51 rotors?
04-30-2010, 05:48 PM
#21
Safety Car
Eh, screw it... I hate being under prepared or having my day ruined do to an equipment problem. I just bought the 10/8 combo and will be buying the C5 rotor setup.
I'm sure once I get this car on the track I'll want to go back again, so having that stuff around won't be a bad thing. With the weekday HPT events I can just drive to work and head straight to the track if I can open up my afternoon enough.
I'm sure once I get this car on the track I'll want to go back again, so having that stuff around won't be a bad thing. With the weekday HPT events I can just drive to work and head straight to the track if I can open up my afternoon enough.
05-02-2010, 01:43 PM
#22
Intermediate
Member Since: Nov 2009
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm also using carbotech 10 and 8.
You will not be dissappointed.
You may notice that your pads and rotors will last longer than other vette.drivers in your group with different brand pads. At least that's what I have noticed.
I even leave my pads on the street and they still stop fairly well at ambient temps!
You will not be dissappointed.
You may notice that your pads and rotors will last longer than other vette.drivers in your group with different brand pads. At least that's what I have noticed.
I even leave my pads on the street and they still stop fairly well at ambient temps!
05-02-2010, 09:23 PM
#23
Intermediate
Member Since: Jan 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Has anyone tried the Carbotech on a C6 GS? Looked at their website and they only show the Z06 through 2008 and not 2010.
I am looking for pads and rotors for street \ Track driving (about one track day a month).
Thanks,
I am looking for pads and rotors for street \ Track driving (about one track day a month).
Thanks,
05-04-2010, 11:22 PM
#24
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Eh, screw it... I hate being under prepared or having my day ruined do to an equipment problem. I just bought the 10/8 combo and will be buying the C5 rotor setup.
I'm sure once I get this car on the track I'll want to go back again, so having that stuff around won't be a bad thing. With the weekday HPT events I can just drive to work and head straight to the track if I can open up my afternoon enough.
I'm sure once I get this car on the track I'll want to go back again, so having that stuff around won't be a bad thing. With the weekday HPT events I can just drive to work and head straight to the track if I can open up my afternoon enough.
I'm planning on the 5/12 evening event and Fast Friday on the 28th at MAM. When is the next time you are out?
05-06-2010, 09:45 AM
#25
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I'm running the same tracks with the same car. Running in the advanced group at Heartland Park and MAM on stock rotors with Carbotech xp12 pads all around I can get up to 7 days (800 miles) on the front rotors. Keeping all traction control and stability control off will make your rear pads and rotors last at least 3 times as long. I have the quantum brake ducting. I buy my rotors from Gene and don't touch the brakes at all on the cool down lap. Roll into your pit and pop the hood to keep everything cool.
I'm planning on the 5/12 evening event and Fast Friday on the 28th at MAM. When is the next time you are out?
I'm planning on the 5/12 evening event and Fast Friday on the 28th at MAM. When is the next time you are out?
I'm not sure if my stuff will get here in time, so I may have to run 5/12 on stock brakes, but we'll see.
05-08-2010, 05:07 AM
#26
Here's my experience, as a guy who ran 6 hpde's total at the front of the pack in intermediate. A day is 4-5 20 minute sessions. I'm at over 60k and I just now changed my z51 rotors. Only because the lip was getting a little large and I felt 60k is enough, still no cracks at all.
I always ran stock z51 pads, and I'm sure that's the secret to rotor life. I think they're awesome pads. At my skill level on street tires (F1 SC and PS2) I never reached the limits of the stock setup. Never noticed fade, abs always kicked in if I was a little rough on it. I run motul 600 fluid and braided lines. Front pads would last about two events plus street driving. Rears almost twice as long. Sure my pedal's a little mushy but it has nothing to do with heat, and I'm guessing it's the calipers and/or brake booster deflecting.
R-comps and more aggressive driving might change the picture, but for now this is the perfect setup for me.
I always ran stock z51 pads, and I'm sure that's the secret to rotor life. I think they're awesome pads. At my skill level on street tires (F1 SC and PS2) I never reached the limits of the stock setup. Never noticed fade, abs always kicked in if I was a little rough on it. I run motul 600 fluid and braided lines. Front pads would last about two events plus street driving. Rears almost twice as long. Sure my pedal's a little mushy but it has nothing to do with heat, and I'm guessing it's the calipers and/or brake booster deflecting.
R-comps and more aggressive driving might change the picture, but for now this is the perfect setup for me.
05-08-2010, 09:09 AM
#27
Intermediate
Member Since: Jan 2010
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I guess me being a beginner takes a toll on my brakes.. My pads lasted a day (ran out of pad on the first session of the second day), should have checked the night before but I never dreamed that 1 track day is all it takes.
05-08-2010, 09:31 PM
#28
Pro
I have done around 20 events and run in the advanced solo group now. I still use the Z51 rotors even though I know most track junkies downsize to the standard 12.8 inch front rotors, I have found the drilled 13.4 inch Z51 rotors to provide very good braking with Carbo XP10s up front and Carbo XP8s in the rear.
Rotor wear is a function of the heat cycles and some tracks are much harder on brakes than others. In addition some pads are harder on rotors than others. The cold (or hot) hard facts are that if you are running to make the best time, you are going to be hard on the brakes as you dive deep into the corners. I do get "heat checking" on a brand new set of properly bedded-in rotors after just a couple sessions. Even with the Quantum Air Ducts installed and extra paddock cool-down drive-time after the cool-down lap.
The heat-checking cracks continue to grow until I get uncomfortable running them. I have never had one crack all the way between the holes or to the edge. I am sure that some folks would run them longer, but I don't want to take a chance on a bad deal.
So, on average, I guess I get about 5 days (4 - 25 minute sessions each day) on a front set of GM Z51 rotors and about 8 days on the GM Z51 rear rotors.
Having said all that, I would really like to find reasonably priced blank 13.4 inch front rotors (and 13 inch rears) to see if they would last longer without the goofy drilled or cast holes. Some vendors "say" them have them, but to date have found none that actually deliver.
Rotor wear is a function of the heat cycles and some tracks are much harder on brakes than others. In addition some pads are harder on rotors than others. The cold (or hot) hard facts are that if you are running to make the best time, you are going to be hard on the brakes as you dive deep into the corners. I do get "heat checking" on a brand new set of properly bedded-in rotors after just a couple sessions. Even with the Quantum Air Ducts installed and extra paddock cool-down drive-time after the cool-down lap.
The heat-checking cracks continue to grow until I get uncomfortable running them. I have never had one crack all the way between the holes or to the edge. I am sure that some folks would run them longer, but I don't want to take a chance on a bad deal.
So, on average, I guess I get about 5 days (4 - 25 minute sessions each day) on a front set of GM Z51 rotors and about 8 days on the GM Z51 rear rotors.
Having said all that, I would really like to find reasonably priced blank 13.4 inch front rotors (and 13 inch rears) to see if they would last longer without the goofy drilled or cast holes. Some vendors "say" them have them, but to date have found none that actually deliver.
05-09-2010, 10:07 AM
#29
Racer
Member Since: Aug 2001
Location: Lindenhurst Illinois
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fun post...
My Z51 car has been to three events (2 at Road America, one at Gingerman). I drive in the advanced or instructors group, street tires (this is very important!) only.
I ran two events with PFC99 pads up front, stock Z51 in the rear, and my 1st event stock pads (new) all the way around.
Also before the 1st DE event I put a Quantum brake duct kit on the car (My 01 Z06 would eat its rotors in 2-3 days of hard driving with race pads) so I was preemptive here.
The Z51 brake rotors have lasted longer and probably have at least 1 more DE event in them, but I will bring spare rotors when I go. I can see the spiderweb surface cracks all over them now and as they get a bit bigger, the rotors will eventually crack through, which is no fun.
So managing the heat is key.
The three biggest factors on the Vette are:
1. Track tires? More grip == more energy for the brakes to absorb
2. Driving style... How good are you at conserving your brakes as they start to fade?
3. Cooling for the brakes
Better Pad's are going to let you stop better and have impact as do the pad's life (thinner will let the fluid boil easier, but really doesn't impact rotor heat in the same way) but the biggest factors are if you run R-compounds, and managing the heat for rotor life, I'd get some ducting on the rotors if you are running very fast.
And as a point of reference: 2 days of driving at Texas Motor Speedway's "Roval" in my 01 Z06... Running on Hoosiers, with I think Carbotech pads (hard to recall) and new rotors up front, I had 3 of 4 rotors crack through while braking into the chicane on the front straight (both fronts, 1 rear). It makes a distinctive thunk thunk thunk noise as the crack passes the brake calipers. That happens find the pit exit!
But that is a track that will eat your brakes with two high speed braking zones and no time between for cooling (at least not in a Vette...). But I have seen on rare occasions where a rotor shatters and destroy's a wheel, and that leaves you in a very bad way. So inspect the rotors and pads after every session
My Z51 car has been to three events (2 at Road America, one at Gingerman). I drive in the advanced or instructors group, street tires (this is very important!) only.
I ran two events with PFC99 pads up front, stock Z51 in the rear, and my 1st event stock pads (new) all the way around.
Also before the 1st DE event I put a Quantum brake duct kit on the car (My 01 Z06 would eat its rotors in 2-3 days of hard driving with race pads) so I was preemptive here.
The Z51 brake rotors have lasted longer and probably have at least 1 more DE event in them, but I will bring spare rotors when I go. I can see the spiderweb surface cracks all over them now and as they get a bit bigger, the rotors will eventually crack through, which is no fun.
So managing the heat is key.
The three biggest factors on the Vette are:
1. Track tires? More grip == more energy for the brakes to absorb
2. Driving style... How good are you at conserving your brakes as they start to fade?
3. Cooling for the brakes
Better Pad's are going to let you stop better and have impact as do the pad's life (thinner will let the fluid boil easier, but really doesn't impact rotor heat in the same way) but the biggest factors are if you run R-compounds, and managing the heat for rotor life, I'd get some ducting on the rotors if you are running very fast.
And as a point of reference: 2 days of driving at Texas Motor Speedway's "Roval" in my 01 Z06... Running on Hoosiers, with I think Carbotech pads (hard to recall) and new rotors up front, I had 3 of 4 rotors crack through while braking into the chicane on the front straight (both fronts, 1 rear). It makes a distinctive thunk thunk thunk noise as the crack passes the brake calipers. That happens find the pit exit!
But that is a track that will eat your brakes with two high speed braking zones and no time between for cooling (at least not in a Vette...). But I have seen on rare occasions where a rotor shatters and destroy's a wheel, and that leaves you in a very bad way. So inspect the rotors and pads after every session
