longdaddy

everything is normal in street driving or conservative/smooth track driving (i.e. another person driving my car )

when i slide the car/spin the wheels by combining a turn with hard braking/acceleration, I get the warning about abs/tc/ah (ah/tc is always off) and abs stops working until I shut off the car and restart.

i am going to start by checking the wiring and plugs for front wheel sensors (rears have not been touched in ages).

anything else to check?

in addition, I get a lot of noise from the power steering and foam in ps fluid. this may or may not be related, my power steering has been a little "whiny" for a while.

mgarfias

you have a tech2 or ease with the abs enhancement? if so, log from the EBCM. Any codes left over, or is it all transient?

ErnieN85

Usually that's the first sign of loosening wheel bearings.

longdaddy

the front hubs are new ("national" brand).

i am going to go ahead and see if I can get the codes

SouthernSon

After about 8k track miles on my '03 I got an ABS 1214 code which means 'ain't working'. I had to come in from the session to keep from flat spotting my tires. Next morning, after all cooled off, ABS worked fine for the entire day. I WILL procure another ABS module though.

On the whiny steering, your pump/and or rack are about to go out. Mine whined for several events before biting the dust. If it is the pump, I would recommend the better one from Turn One. Try to go used OEM for the rack. I understand rebuilt racks don't seem to last as long.

longdaddy

now that i think about it, i have put 6 or 7 pretty hard track days on the new hubs, on r6/a6 tires...

ErnieN85

new ones last best if they have some road miles on them first. they seem to work harden and last longer than if they are used on track right away. I'm not saying that is your problem but............. I'd check

Falcon

They should withstand that easily. My front hubs (Timkens) usually last a couple of years of racing.

Once you get the codes, many here may have some answers.

When my ABS went out, it was all of a sudden when trying to slow from 120. After changing the hubs, the problem still existed. Found to be a short in the wiring, and I had to buy a new EBTCM module, either it got fried or was the problem all along.

I'll chase down the codes I was getting, but the DIC read the same as yours, but it probably does that for about any code affecting ABS/TC/AH.

If you need a new EBTCM module, you can get a rebuilt one ($150) from ABSFIXER.com. ****If it's reparable.

****Here are some of the codes I got:

TCS 1232, 1233, 1267, 1248, U1000 & a 1255 thrown in occasionally.

varkwso

my experience also

longdaddy

my codes seem to be a little different.

All are "H" codes:
TCS:
C1221 Wheel speed sensor Circuit
C1225 Wheel speed sensor circuit

not sure which sensors? the description mentions "wheel speed is 0 while other wheels are moving within 7mpth of each other" - so this could be a symptom of wheels locking up when ABS is not working right, not an evidence of bad wheel sensors. Or? 2.5 seconds is a long time to be sliding 2 completely locked up front wheels.


LDCM:
B2282 Battery #1 Circuit
B2284 Battery #2 Circuit
U1064 "lost communication" - i think I have had the U1xxxH codes pop up occasionally for as long as I have had the car
U1096 same

RDCM:
B2283 Battery #1 Circuit
B2285 Battery #2 Circuit
B2265 Mirror Position Sensor Signal (huh?)
U1064
U1096

mgarfias

H code means its not currently happening. If you lost comm to the speed sensor and it shut down the ABS then came back this is what I'd expect. Does it not tell you which sensor it was (I don't have my service manual here, otherwise I'd look it up).

Ignore the L/RDCM, thats the door modules. U1064 is fairly normal in the door controllers for some reason (at least on my car).

If this was me, I'd hook up ease while scanning the TCS, and go slide the car and figure out which sensor is going on. Without the scanner, I'd pull both of the front speed sensor connectors and flush out with contact cleaner.

JohnD60

This probably isn't it but just in case..... did you replace your brake hoses recently????

I had the same problem my first event this year right after replacing my front brake hoses with a set from Russell. Turns out the Russell lines interrupt the ground to the wheel sensors. Replaced them with Goodrich and everthing went back to normal again.

John

geerookie

C1221 is LF sensor no input and is probably a connection at the wheel speed sensor or a ground on the frame rail on the drivers side.

C1225 is LF excessive speed variation.
Since both of these codes are exclusive to the left front sensor I would check the connector at the wheel AND then the connection at the frame. There are two that cause problems. Then I would check the grounds on top of the frame rail on the drivers side front near the head light and the one near the firewall.

Just a side note, logic says it probably isn't the grounds since they would also cause you to see some other random codes. I would pursue both of the sensor connections first but remember that ground problems in electronics rarely follow normal laws of logic!

longdaddy

thanks for isolating this to LF, this reduces the amount of work by 75%


negative on brake lines - same lines i've been running for the last 4 years.

longdaddy

well i cleaned all 4 connectors in the front and slightly pushed the pins inside for better contact.

went out and could not reproduce the issue - AH, TC and ABS appear to work correctly and the car behaves as expected with AH/TC off.

i also was very low on PS fluid which was odd since I do not have any leaks - topped it off and it stopped foaming/overheating.

SouthernSon

Check the accordian boot cover. The fluid accumalates in there sometimes without leaking further. Good luck with it. You may have lucked out.