Hoosier Tech Tips
Le Mans Master
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From: Akron Ohio
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
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Depends on many many factors, but...A6 is the tire of choice. It is NOT true that R6's last longer, or that R is for roadracing and A is for autocross. In fact, testing by people with bigger budgets than mine have indicated that the A6's actually stay faster for more heat cycles than an R6 (6 - 8 vs 3 - 5). There is data everywhere that the A6 ("new" to "new" comparison) is 1 - 2 seconds faster than an R6.
Virtually everyone on the forum that is not restricted to a different brand of tire runs A6 for competition, both time trial or road racing. Does that mean it's the best tire? I'm not qualified to make that assessment.
The Kumho V710 is also pretty damn fast.
If you're not competing, for HPDE I'd run something like a Nitto or Toyo. Not as fast overall but they'll last 3 times longer before being rendered useless.
Virtually everyone on the forum that is not restricted to a different brand of tire runs A6 for competition, both time trial or road racing. Does that mean it's the best tire? I'm not qualified to make that assessment.
The Kumho V710 is also pretty damn fast.
If you're not competing, for HPDE I'd run something like a Nitto or Toyo. Not as fast overall but they'll last 3 times longer before being rendered useless.
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St. Jude Donor '08
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Now you guys tell me I should use A6s. Just got R6s. Have gone through two sets of R6s so I guess as soon as I wear these out it's A6s. I'm pretty much done with the mods to the car and we drive SM all the time so I'll be able to see just how long the tires last back to back. I'll keep track of how many sessions I can run on each. Talk to you in a year or so.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Private
Depends on many many factors, but...A6 is the tire of choice. It is NOT true that R6's last longer, or that R is for roadracing and A is for autocross. In fact, testing by people with bigger budgets than mine have indicated that the A6's actually stay faster for more heat cycles than an R6 (6 - 8 vs 3 - 5). There is data everywhere that the A6 ("new" to "new" comparison) is 1 - 2 seconds faster than an R6.
Virtually everyone on the forum that is not restricted to a different brand of tire runs A6 for competition, both time trial or road racing. Does that mean it's the best tire? I'm not qualified to make that assessment.
The Kumho V710 is also pretty damn fast.
If you're not competing, for HPDE I'd run something like a Nitto or Toyo. Not as fast overall but they'll last 3 times longer before being rendered useless.
Virtually everyone on the forum that is not restricted to a different brand of tire runs A6 for competition, both time trial or road racing. Does that mean it's the best tire? I'm not qualified to make that assessment.
The Kumho V710 is also pretty damn fast.
If you're not competing, for HPDE I'd run something like a Nitto or Toyo. Not as fast overall but they'll last 3 times longer before being rendered useless.
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Melting Slicks
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From: Brunswick GA
I would like to ask a clarifying question. You state the A6 basically lasts as long or longer than the R6, but your statement seems biased toward heat cycles. Yes, we know the R6's lose a good portion of their grip after several heat cycles, and it sounds like the A6's do not. But I like other have gone with R6's because I was told they won't cord nearly as fast as the A6. For an HPDE person, cording is more important than having a consistent tire. If the tire loses 30% of it's grip, but lasts longer (meaning doesn't cord as fast), that is probably a better value to someone doing HPDE. But are you also saying the A6 will last as long as the R6 (cord wise)?
However, I disagree in not wanting a consistent tire for HPDE. If I were driving my street car on track (which I do occasionally), I would want a consistent tire for safety of mine and my cars' sake. But I run NT-01's on that car which stay pretty consistent.
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Le Mans Master
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From: Private
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every car will be different according to setups/mods and desires. Also driving styles. I like 32 frt and 30 rear on my car and they usually end 42-44 hot depending on temps of the day.
Last edited by John Shiels; May 19, 2011 at 01:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Private
In my experience this is true: as the R6 heat cycles the oils come out of the rubber and it gets harder and harder..thus, the tread doesn't actually wear as fast.
However, I disagree in not wanting a consistent tire for HPDE. If I were driving my street car on track (which I do occasionally), I would want a consistent tire for safety of mine and my cars' sake. But I run NT-01's on that car which stay pretty consistent.
However, I disagree in not wanting a consistent tire for HPDE. If I were driving my street car on track (which I do occasionally), I would want a consistent tire for safety of mine and my cars' sake. But I run NT-01's on that car which stay pretty consistent.
The only tire I felt unsafe was when the Kumho's were de-treading. I had a set at the time (several years ago) that were recalled and after a few events, they were coming apart. I went with Hoosier from that time forward.
I would like to try A6's before I quit this car thing someday, but my concerns would be that I won't get the longevity from them (bang for the buck), and actually more important, abuse to the car. I already replaced a few bushings in 3 years that became deformed from the G's that R6's provide, I would only imagine it would be much worse with A6's. This is something people should consider, the more grip, the more abuse on the car (especially suspension).
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St. Jude Donor '08
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Goals are speed first. The car has Pfadt coilovers, Stoptech BB kit, SKW hubs, Brake cooling, Blah Blah Blah. No mods to engine or trans. Running speedline chrome Z wheels in stock size. Car has been cornerweighted by Guldstrand and aligned by him.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Private
I like to have a set last me 1-2 seasons at that price, and proper tire management and driving style help me acheive this.
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From: Buy USA products! Check the label! Employ Americans
From my experience the tires are best the first 3-4 events, then it is a slow process where they become less sticky. But having used many tires (treaded and non treaded). I have found a worn heat cycled Hoosier to be as good or still better than a newer treaded R compound. I have been using Hoosier for 10 years and never felt they were unsafe when worn down to cords. Do you have to adjust your driving style a bit, yes, but not that drastically.
The only tire I felt unsafe was when the Kumho's were de-treading. I had a set at the time (several years ago) that were recalled and after a few events, they were coming apart. I went with Hoosier from that time forward.
I would like to try A6's before I quit this car thing someday, but my concerns would be that I won't get the longevity from them (bang for the buck), and actually more important, abuse to the car. I already replaced a few bushings in 3 years that became deformed from the G's that R6's provide, I would only imagine it would be much worse with A6's. This is something people should consider, the more grip, the more abuse on the car (especially suspension).
The only tire I felt unsafe was when the Kumho's were de-treading. I had a set at the time (several years ago) that were recalled and after a few events, they were coming apart. I went with Hoosier from that time forward.
I would like to try A6's before I quit this car thing someday, but my concerns would be that I won't get the longevity from them (bang for the buck), and actually more important, abuse to the car. I already replaced a few bushings in 3 years that became deformed from the G's that R6's provide, I would only imagine it would be much worse with A6's. This is something people should consider, the more grip, the more abuse on the car (especially suspension).
kuhmos = junk and horrible tech support they suck!
Race Director
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From: Southern CA
That's a puzzler. In 8 years of autox and 2 Vettes & comparing notes with dozens of other Vette guys I never came across anyone that runs less front & more rear pressure.
Not sayin it's wrong, just sayin.
Must be an unusual setup and/or driving style that makes it work for you.
Pro
Joined: May 2007
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Just remember the racers don't care, but at setting below 30lbs, you will ruin and cord those tires very quickly just for a few tenths and at $1500 per set, after doing that a couple times, you may reconsider. If you are loaded, God Bless you and go for it
I like to have a set last me 1-2 seasons at that price, and proper tire management and driving style help me acheive this.
I like to have a set last me 1-2 seasons at that price, and proper tire management and driving style help me acheive this.
I'm just a couple times a year guy but I don't want to throw money away. Would cold pressures of 30 lbs give the best balance for speed/longevity? Hot pressures at the track last time were LF35,LR32,RF31,RR31 Wound up cording the LF.
rf