Building the Perfect LS1 Roadrace motor...Help From the experts please!
10-08-2012, 12:22 AM
#21
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Patriot springs, check.
ARE dry sump, check.
Yellow Terra rockers, crack.
My 1.7 ratio, 2 year old version earlier this year at Summit Point:
I'm just starting a rebuild now. The debate is wether to reuse my forged rotating assembly (gouged cylinder wall requires a new block) or buy a stock long block and reinstall my existing dry sump to save some $$. Still undecided..
Very interested in this thread.
John
ARE dry sump, check.
Yellow Terra rockers, crack.
My 1.7 ratio, 2 year old version earlier this year at Summit Point:
I'm just starting a rebuild now. The debate is wether to reuse my forged rotating assembly (gouged cylinder wall requires a new block) or buy a stock long block and reinstall my existing dry sump to save some $$. Still undecided..
Very interested in this thread.
John
Last edited by Maynor29; 10-12-2012 at 11:55 PM. Reason: Tpo
10-08-2012, 07:47 AM
#22
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
John, I have the chance to buy a set of YelloTerra rockers from the previous owner and have been told by several people not to go that route. Your pics show "WHY"... I'll probably go the Comp-Cams route once we start spending money. The valve train failures on these cars is what scares me most.
Mike
Mike
10-08-2012, 01:04 PM
#24
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I tore down the LS1 shortblock today and laid all the bits out on the table to see exactly what I have...So far I've pulled the cam and here are the specs:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1086&sb=2
I also dug through the boxes of stuff the previous owner gave me, and low and behold there are rockers in one of the boxes, so I ended up with those Yello-Terra Rockers afterall. I'll sell them, I guess.
Main and rod bearings look good on the few caps I removed. Overall the motor seems to be in good shape.
Mike
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1086&sb=2
I also dug through the boxes of stuff the previous owner gave me, and low and behold there are rockers in one of the boxes, so I ended up with those Yello-Terra Rockers afterall. I'll sell them, I guess.
Main and rod bearings look good on the few caps I removed. Overall the motor seems to be in good shape.
Mike
10-08-2012, 01:22 PM
#25
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10-11-2012, 07:45 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
So I'm not going the 383 stroker route. Not cost effective from what I'm reading. What would you guys recommend for a heads/cam package? I'll Sell the Patriot 5.3 heads complete with the valvetrain and cam and just refresh the shortblock with forged rods/pistons, and have already planned out the drysump. Also think I'm gonna go the Tilton 5.5 triple disc route.
10-11-2012, 10:34 PM
#27
Drifting
AFR and RHS seem to make good heads.
OR you could resleeve that motor and but in some cylinders with a 4" bore or more. Then you can use the square-port LS3-style heads.
OR you could resleeve that motor and but in some cylinders with a 4" bore or more. Then you can use the square-port LS3-style heads.
10-13-2012, 12:05 AM
#30
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Dry sump pan rule #1, run screened outlet (suction side) fittings ala:
If something internal ever breaks, it might save your suction pump from major damage.
John
If something internal ever breaks, it might save your suction pump from major damage.
John
10-13-2012, 01:25 AM
#31
Safety Car
How many stages on the pump did you get?
I see pics of lots of Y-Ts cracked and they seem to correlate to spring pressure. There is a gonzo version of the Y-Ts that can handle the pressure, but most people end up with the wrong version for their app and then it goes downhill from there.
I see pics of lots of Y-Ts cracked and they seem to correlate to spring pressure. There is a gonzo version of the Y-Ts that can handle the pressure, but most people end up with the wrong version for their app and then it goes downhill from there.
