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check valve in valve cover vent on dry sump

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Old 04-02-2012, 12:48 AM
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z06801
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Default check valve in valve cover vent on dry sump

Should you run a check valve in the valve cover vent to create more vacuum in the crank? running ARE system with internal oil pump.
Old 04-02-2012, 10:27 AM
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FlamingZ06
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A better question might be "why is there a valve cover vent?"
Old 04-02-2012, 11:10 AM
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I'm talking about the AN fitting from the top of the dry sump tanks to the valve cover. I have one going to a vented catch can and the other one which has the line going into the center vented to the valve cover both with a #10 AN. First start up and 10 minute warm up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIT_t...ature=youtu.be

Last edited by z06801; 04-02-2012 at 11:18 AM.
Old 04-02-2012, 11:48 PM
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trackboss
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I wouldn't vent the engine at all. Instead install a vacuum regulator on the engine.
Old 04-03-2012, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by trackboss
I wouldn't vent the engine at all. Instead install a vacuum regulator on the engine.
This is what my engine builder said, by not letting the dry sump create a vacuum in the crank your giving up a lot of HP but where should the line from the tank that is marked PCV or valve cover go, this is where I was talking about a check valve so the tank could vent back to the motor but the engine would not vent back the other way. This is ARE's schematic. From the video do you see anything wrong with my set up?

Last edited by z06801; 04-03-2012 at 12:49 AM.
Old 04-03-2012, 03:17 AM
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It looks to me that you are running a scavenge only system with the stock pump for pressure. I am not sure why ARE suggests venting the motor, but in general you want the motor sealed and only the tank vented. Reason is you are no longer holding much oil in the pan so the scavenge pump draws oil and air. By venting the motor you are allowing a lot more air in and reducing scavenge capability. Also, I would not run an oil cooler on the scavenge line. The scavenge line to the tank may also have air in it so the effectiveness of the oil cooler is reduced. The only time an oil cooler can be used correctly on the scavenge line is if there is an oil/air separator before it (usually built into the pump). If there is a concern for too much vacuum then a pressure relief valve should be installed on the motor.
Speaking for myself, I would be more concerned about setting up the oil system to do the job right than getting the extra hp from the vacuum although it is a nice bonus.
Old 04-03-2012, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by trackboss
It looks to me that you are running a scavenge only system with the stock pump for pressure. I am not sure why ARE suggests venting the motor, but in general you want the motor sealed and only the tank vented. Reason is you are no longer holding much oil in the pan so the scavenge pump draws oil and air. By venting the motor you are allowing a lot more air in and reducing scavenge capability. Also, I would not run an oil cooler on the scavenge line. The scavenge line to the tank may also have air in it so the effectiveness of the oil cooler is reduced. The only time an oil cooler can be used correctly on the scavenge line is if there is an oil/air separator before it (usually built into the pump). If there is a concern for too much vacuum then a pressure relief valve should be installed on the motor.
Speaking for myself, I would be more concerned about setting up the oil system to do the job right than getting the extra hp from the vacuum although it is a nice bonus.
Thanks for your response and that is my main concern, just that it is working properly. Had very good pressure during its ten minute warm up, but then developed a leak from valve cover, already had new ones on the way because they were not fitting properly. We'll wait till we get them on and finish the break-in and tune on the dyno. Should make good power, 434ci LS2 with a mid range torque cam.

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