It's not true that I know of. There were a couple posts on LS1tech about a guy who knew a guy who pumped the pan dry on a F-body. Keep in mind the F-body has a lower oil capacity. This became internet hearsay.

I've been running a LS4 pump since I put a cam in my old Z06 back in 2006. It was the original LS4 pump with the 52 psi relief spring. On my current race car I use the latest iteration of the pump with the 42 psi relief spring. Been running it for two years w/o issue.

I did have oil coolers on both cars so that adds capacity to the oiling circuit. Even w/o an oil cooler the C5 w/ batwing pan still take 7 quarts of oil.

The pump does the same thing as a Melling and costs around $80 last I checked vs. $200+ for a Melling high volume pump.

 

Hmm. I have to look up whether the LS4 and L92 pumps are the same. My LS6 took 7qts to have the oil level at the dipstick level. I add an extra quart of oil for the track so that 8qts. If what you say is true then hopefully I have a free high volume pump... I hope.

 

Run the part numbers and see...

Original LS4 pump with 52 psi relief spring - http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factor...parts/12571885

Newer LS4 pump with the 42 psi relief spring (the one I have in the racecar now) - http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factor...parts/12612289

 

right, well, whatever it is, I have one and have not been able to suck the pan dry through any type of cornering on sticky R comps. Lowest oil pressure through long high g sweepers is like 50psi.

 

Melling shows M295 for the LS4 and M365 for the L92.

I found this:
LS6 stock 4.6gpm @ 1500rpm, 6.7gpm @ 6200rpm
M10296 high volume LS6, 5.4gpm @ 1500rpm, 8.0gpm @ 6500rpm
M365 6.5gpm @ 1500rpm, 9.5gpm @ 6500rpm

 

I have no idea on G's, but I tend to drive fairly hard and the car stuck really well. Before I installed the 243 heads with my oil drain modifications the motor was stone stock '99 (callaway intake and borla cat back)with just accusump and R6 tires at thunderhill and I got teens oil pressure around T-2 3rd gear roughly 180 left hander off camber slightly. FWIW, I was running 2.00 minutes flat going over the top of turn 5 (scca configuration) with a passenger at about 3600lbs plus total weight. A proper race car or even a car on a compounds is way faster.
Next time around it was sears point. Used pirelli grand am slicks (a little more grip than the wider R6's I had, but I'd bet a second or two slower than fresh A6) with the oil drain modifications (I also converted the pcv system to the later valley style which I am not convinced is any better than the older system I had) and I got the low oil presure warning every single time (once the tires got up to temp) around t-6. It's a fast, downhill, left hand, roughly 180* turn. The only solution was to short shift(4500-5000rpm). I actually completely let off for about a second or two exiting the turn until the display no longer said low oil pressure. I even once remember looking at the display after t-2 and I got the message there as well. That was odd because t-2 is an off camber, very slick, right hander that is at the top of a very short uphill straight so there is not a lot of grip or cornering force. I tried running the oil capacity both at normal fill and overfill. Made no difference.
There are some guys with later model cars going as fast or faster with ls6 motors and having success. I suppose my older ls1 may not oil as well, but the only thing different that I know of is the way the bottom end of the block breathes between each bank. I'd bet the newer blocks are improved, but I couldn't imagine it being that much better.
I'm not afraid of damaging my motor, but of what further damage could happen if something lets go. Oiling down the track could result in losing the entire car as well as any behind not to mention it could cause injury to drivers.
Anyhow, just sharing my experience.

 

AFAIK there aren't any oiling changes from the older LS1 blocks. You sure you just don't have a tired motor? Is oil pressure normal off track? I.e. any chance there's an issue with the oil pump O-ring sealing? If you don't install it exactly per the instructions it won't seal properly.

 

Motor is solid. Compression and leakdown all were ok. Only about 30k miles on entire car. Before the oil drainage improvements I made to the heads the oil pump was original as installed by the factory. The pressure seemed pretty low all the time, but I have always assumed it was normal. When I changed things around I triple checked that I installed the oil pump properly including the o-ring so everything is done right. After that the oil pressure increased, but it was because of the ported/shimmed pump. That however did not improve the oil starvation.
I suppose my motor could be one of those unique situations, but it is what I experienced. Thankfully, it didn't ever let go, but then again I stopped running it quite some time ago.

 

What oil pump do you guys suggest, stock ls6 with shimmed spring, melling 10296 high volume with reg press spring, m295 stock ls2/3, or stock L92 oil pump same as melling m365? This is for a car with a wet sump system and batwing pan.

 

This one - http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factor...parts/12612289

Been using it on the current racecar for 2 years now. Had the same pump with the 52psi relief spring on my old Z06 for 3 years of use before that. Zero issues.

Pump freshly installed w/ a new LS2 chain...

 

^^
SD says the oil capacity must be increased with that oil pump. For now Ill be staying with the batwing oil pan so idk if that may be too much pump for my setup.

 

That's standard CYA procedure. It's not too much pump. I have a stock batwing pan as well. If that pump is too much then any and all high volume pumps are too much pump and you should only use a LS6 pump.