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AC Delete weight savings?

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Old 04-07-2013, 10:09 AM
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Plano76vette
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Default AC Delete weight savings?

Guys I am contemplating an AC and Heater delete on my 2006 z51 car because it soon should be a HPDE only car. I will not cut any wire harness or make it so that I could not put it back in.

- condensor?
- compressor?
- control unit?

I have searched a lot on this forum and have not found anything definative.
Old 04-07-2013, 11:36 AM
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C5addict
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On my 2006 Z06 track day car it was worth about 25 pounds. Just removed the compressor, condenser, belt etc.
Old 04-07-2013, 08:35 PM
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that sounds about right, the compressor is NO fun to take out (with engine in the car), and even less fun to put back in later (although I did that to my old T1 car years ago).
Old 04-07-2013, 11:31 PM
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I was hoping it weighed more
Old 04-08-2013, 06:07 AM
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I am told that removing the system also helps with cooling.

Removing he compressor is also removing the weight up front, so I think that is probably a good place to lose it.
Old 04-08-2013, 06:54 AM
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argonaut
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I removed all the A/C components from my black 99. I mostly DE this car but its still street legal. I drive to/from events and the occaisional sunday drive. I have to tell you, its fricking hot! My friends, lounging in there their artic cold cockpits prior to heading out onto a 100+ degree track laugh at me sitting there sweating my *** off in grid. Getting stuck in traffic around town or highway is a misery. For a track only car, then its probably worth it if you have a cool suit. For a car that sees any street duty, I'd think twice about it.
Old 04-08-2013, 07:51 AM
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davidfarmer
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Removing the condenser definitely allows more air to get to the radiator, assuming you seal off the shroud properly
Old 04-08-2013, 05:58 PM
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Okay great info guys!

How much weight would i save if i took the factory radio out and removed all the Bose speaker system?
Old 04-08-2013, 07:20 PM
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Supercharged111
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Why not lose weight with headers, clutch, or battery intead of sacrificing luxuries?
Old 04-08-2013, 09:45 PM
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I currently am at 3050 with half tank of fuel
I have headers no cats, 18lb brail battery, fog light delete ...

I am about to pull my seats, seat belts, airbags ...

I want to do the clutch change when I need a clutch

I am just trying to weigh all my options
Old 04-08-2013, 10:05 PM
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At least 25 lbs with all the lines and condenser. Make sure you plug the lines entering the firewall if you plan to reinstall. Not sure if you can do this with the engine in the car though.
Old 04-09-2013, 09:11 AM
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How much does the heater core, fan and duct flap servo weigh behind the dash?

15lbs?
Old 04-09-2013, 11:06 AM
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If it's going to be an HPDE/track day car only, I would think you could lose a couple hundred pounds by removing everything that is not necessary for the car to run and drive. Gutting the interior of carpeting, door panels, rear trim, console, radio HVAC controls and such will be a good weight savings.

Race seats will be lighter than stock seats; look at the Kirkey aluminum seats. But if you are adding a roll cage, expect to pick up some of that lost weight but the safety factor is worth it.

I would think the A/C components would be about 30-35 lbs worth of savings. Have a shop evacuate the R-134a refrigerant for you. Get some rubber or plastic caps and close off the fittings on everything. If you ever decide to bring the car back to street trim, closing up everything will keep moisture and dirt out of the compressor, condenser, lines, receiver/dryer, etc.
Old 04-09-2013, 11:24 AM
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I will not cut any of the AC lines and i would def plug them off. I would probably save all the AC stuff so that i could put it back at some point. I have thought about completely gutting the interior, and i might eventually.

I think i want to make this High Tech Vette a lil old school.

Example:
my dad's 69 z28 has no AC but a complete interior. It does not look like a striped down car, it was just an option back then.

I might go behind some of the panels and remove some of the sound deading

I plan on removing the lock, window, and door buttons on the passenger side. I will get their bezels and fiberglass them shut. Therefore you just use the pull lever at the bottom to get in and out. I might even make the levers a pull tab like some of the high end light weight porsche .

I am tired of the vette being comfortable. I want it to be an animal!

I have a 2001 H1 on 42's (tires) and i love driving it because it is so rough and un refined. I get in my wife's lexus or my f250 King Ranch if i want to be comfortable and quite. Even though the truck has 1250 wtq
Old 04-09-2013, 04:12 PM
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Be very very careful. I wanted to do some of things you're talking about. Couple of things here and there. Turned out like this.


It's very addicting. You just can't stop, once you start doing it.

Steve A.
Old 04-09-2013, 06:06 PM
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While walking around the pits this weekend, I saw some gutted doors in a CMC car. The door handle itself was bolted to the bottom of the door on the inside, so you reached down and pulled up to open the door as the latch was connected via cable. IIRC though the C6s are electric, so that's probably equally flexible. Do you need to keep the glass? Why not lose the inner panels altogether too? Windows are always down when you're on track anyway.
Old 04-10-2013, 09:21 AM
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the c6's have a cable lever at the bottom of the floor board. So i will remove the electronic buttons all together .

I will probably not pull the glass, but maybe i will hehe...

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Old 04-17-2013, 04:25 PM
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LEAVINU
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Plano-
What did you end up doing in the fog light area? Any pics?
Old 04-17-2013, 04:43 PM
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I removed them and then took some "race mesh grill" and put it behind the bumper. I then epoxy'd them on. I am not a fan of fog lights and mine got broken when a valet backer into it with a pick up (idiot!)
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:17 PM
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Looks clean. Any function to the open area now? How is the air going in getting dispelled?


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