Track Only Rotors???
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Track Only Rotors???
I was thinking about running track only rotors for my 2013 Z06, so this way I wouldn't have to worry about bedding in the carbotech pads (XP10/XP8) to my stock rotors every time. Plus I could travel with my stock rotors as backups to my track only rotors. Is this a good idea?
Any recommendation on a set of mid-grade rotors (front/rear). StopTech Powerslot, DBA T2 Slotted, DBA T3 Club Spec 4000, Stock rears?
Thanks.
Any recommendation on a set of mid-grade rotors (front/rear). StopTech Powerslot, DBA T2 Slotted, DBA T3 Club Spec 4000, Stock rears?
Thanks.
#3
Safety Car
Here's an article I wrote a while back about brake discs. I'm not sure what you mean by a mid-grade rotor. Why would you want a cheap rotor for the track?
I hate it if I have to change a tire at the track. I can't imagine what it would be like changing rotors for every track event.
Richard Newton
I hate it if I have to change a tire at the track. I can't imagine what it would be like changing rotors for every track event.
Richard Newton
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Here's an article I wrote a while back about brake discs. I'm not sure what you mean by a mid-grade rotor. Why would you want a cheap rotor for the track?
I hate it if I have to change a tire at the track. I can't imagine what it would be like changing rotors for every track event.
Richard Newton
I hate it if I have to change a tire at the track. I can't imagine what it would be like changing rotors for every track event.
Richard Newton
Let me ask you Richard...are any of the rotors that I listed in my initial post a bad rotor for the track? Please let me know.
I should of said at a "mid-level price-point", because everyone is on a budget. Just like I wasn't able to purchase the highest quality carbotech pad...I'm not ready to purchase the highest quality rotor, either.
I plan to change rotors at home before I trailer to the track, then change back on my return. Having an extra set of rotors on hand could be helpful if I ever find any stress cracks in the middle of a weekend....or during a three day event at Daytona.
Options please.
#7
I was thinking about running track only rotors for my 2013 Z06, so this way I wouldn't have to worry about bedding in the carbotech pads (XP10/XP8) to my stock rotors every time. Plus I could travel with my stock rotors as backups to my track only rotors. Is this a good idea?
Any recommendation on a set of mid-grade rotors (front/rear). StopTech Powerslot, DBA T2 Slotted, DBA T3 Club Spec 4000, Stock rears?
Thanks.
Any recommendation on a set of mid-grade rotors (front/rear). StopTech Powerslot, DBA T2 Slotted, DBA T3 Club Spec 4000, Stock rears?
Thanks.
It gets old pretty quick pulling the calipers & rotors off everytime I want my street pads on. I did not try the torx pins on the stock calipers as I've heard they are more difficult and strip easily.
Once my stock calipers show any sign of abnormal wear/function I'll spend the cash and upgrade to an aftermarket set, but as you mentioned we are all on a budget.
#8
Racer
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Can't help you out with rotor suggestions, as I use disposable rotors on a C5.
#9
Instructor
I think having a separate set of rotors and pads for the track is a great idea. I have been doing this with every track car of mine since the late 90s. Benefits: for the street and autocross, the pads are always perfectly mated to the rotor (important for good braking, especially autocross), for the track the rotors are always perfectly bedded (no worries about light street use stripping the bedding from the rotor). It is not that much extra work to change the rotors if you are changing the pads: 2 more bolts per wheel.
#10
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If you aren't changing the calipers then go with the stock front Z06 Rotors. In my experience they last just about as long as the expensive rotors and cost a lot less (5 days before cracking Vs AFX/Coleman two piece units that made it 7 days). Stock rears lasted about as long as the fronts but didn't visibly heat check before cracking. The AFX/Coleman rear two piece rotors went 20 days before I wore them out (never cracked, just got to thin). In that case the expensive rotors were the way to go.
I currently have Wilwood calipers and rotors on my Z. With 6 track days on them the front two piece rotors have a fair amount of heat checking while the rears have none. Not sure how many more track days I can get out of the fronts but it looks like the math doesn't add up for them. Will have to see whether the rears work out the same as the Coleman's.
One thing I tried earlier in the season was the Advance Auto Parts lowest cost rotors. At the store they cost about the same as the stock ones do shipped to the house. However, upon inspection it is obvious they aren't as well built as the stock rotors since they have less material in the vent area between the rotor faces. They did take 3 track days and look pretty good.
This is the first year in a long while that I didn't do 20 track days (only 15) and my experience over the 4 years since I got my Z shows me the stock rotor is the most cost effective rotor you can use. Last weekend I did a 3 day event and I carried two stock front rotors for spares in case the Wilwoods needed changing.
Now my disclaimer: Due to individual driver characteristics your results can vary.
Bill
I currently have Wilwood calipers and rotors on my Z. With 6 track days on them the front two piece rotors have a fair amount of heat checking while the rears have none. Not sure how many more track days I can get out of the fronts but it looks like the math doesn't add up for them. Will have to see whether the rears work out the same as the Coleman's.
One thing I tried earlier in the season was the Advance Auto Parts lowest cost rotors. At the store they cost about the same as the stock ones do shipped to the house. However, upon inspection it is obvious they aren't as well built as the stock rotors since they have less material in the vent area between the rotor faces. They did take 3 track days and look pretty good.
This is the first year in a long while that I didn't do 20 track days (only 15) and my experience over the 4 years since I got my Z shows me the stock rotor is the most cost effective rotor you can use. Last weekend I did a 3 day event and I carried two stock front rotors for spares in case the Wilwoods needed changing.
Now my disclaimer: Due to individual driver characteristics your results can vary.
Bill
#12
Race Director
I can only speak from the C5 side as opposed to the C6Z perspective, but check NAPA as well. As far as "cheap" stock rotors go, my experience is that theirs are as good as any out there. It is what I run for the street and track backup (I use AP J-hooks on the track).
Last edited by RedLS1GTO; 09-30-2013 at 11:30 AM.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
To your other statement...I do plan on using the stock calipers and changing over to Motul RBF 600 for brake fluid. I like keeping things simple, so I do like your recommendation on using the stock drilled rotors, but at the same time I've heard so many issues with drilled rotors. Are the Coleman's a slotted rotor? I'm going to call Essex to see if they have an J-Hook replacement that will work with the stock calipers.
#14
Drifting
Been there, done that, got lazy and bought a trailer. Swapping rotors is a good plan but using compatible street pads and track pads is a better approach.
WRT rotor life, I was getting 8 days out of the cheapest $58 centric rotors and 8 days out of both the heavy duty and light weight $200 Performance AFX rotors.
I now have a Brembo GT package and they seem to be lasting much better but they are over $500 each.
Jim
WRT rotor life, I was getting 8 days out of the cheapest $58 centric rotors and 8 days out of both the heavy duty and light weight $200 Performance AFX rotors.
I now have a Brembo GT package and they seem to be lasting much better but they are over $500 each.
Jim
#15
Race Director
You are about 95% of the way done with a rotor swap when you change pads. At that point it is 2 bolts out, 2 bolts in. It adds about 30 seconds of work to each side and you don't have to worry about matching compounds. For the street, use what works best on the street and for the track, use what works best on the track.
#16
If you aren't changing the calipers then go with the stock front Z06 Rotors. In my experience they last just about as long as the expensive rotors and cost a lot less (5 days before cracking Vs AFX/Coleman two piece units that made it 7 days). Stock rears lasted about as long as the fronts but didn't visibly heat check before cracking. The AFX/Coleman rear two piece rotors went 20 days before I wore them out (never cracked, just got to thin). In that case the expensive rotors were the way to go.
I currently have Wilwood calipers and rotors on my Z. With 6 track days on them the front two piece rotors have a fair amount of heat checking while the rears have none. Not sure how many more track days I can get out of the fronts but it looks like the math doesn't add up for them. Will have to see whether the rears work out the same as the Coleman's.
One thing I tried earlier in the season was the Advance Auto Parts lowest cost rotors. At the store they cost about the same as the stock ones do shipped to the house. However, upon inspection it is obvious they aren't as well built as the stock rotors since they have less material in the vent area between the rotor faces. They did take 3 track days and look pretty good.
This is the first year in a long while that I didn't do 20 track days (only 15) and my experience over the 4 years since I got my Z shows me the stock rotor is the most cost effective rotor you can use. Last weekend I did a 3 day event and I carried two stock front rotors for spares in case the Wilwoods needed changing.
Now my disclaimer: Due to individual driver characteristics your results can vary.
Bill
I currently have Wilwood calipers and rotors on my Z. With 6 track days on them the front two piece rotors have a fair amount of heat checking while the rears have none. Not sure how many more track days I can get out of the fronts but it looks like the math doesn't add up for them. Will have to see whether the rears work out the same as the Coleman's.
One thing I tried earlier in the season was the Advance Auto Parts lowest cost rotors. At the store they cost about the same as the stock ones do shipped to the house. However, upon inspection it is obvious they aren't as well built as the stock rotors since they have less material in the vent area between the rotor faces. They did take 3 track days and look pretty good.
This is the first year in a long while that I didn't do 20 track days (only 15) and my experience over the 4 years since I got my Z shows me the stock rotor is the most cost effective rotor you can use. Last weekend I did a 3 day event and I carried two stock front rotors for spares in case the Wilwoods needed changing.
Now my disclaimer: Due to individual driver characteristics your results can vary.
Bill
#17
Safety Car
I always drove on race pads (DTC60s/PFC01s/ST-43s). Never had an issue with noise, braking ability, etc.
Swapping rotors before and after every event (along with some swaps during an event due to cracking), sounds pretty miserable to me.
Swapping rotors before and after every event (along with some swaps during an event due to cracking), sounds pretty miserable to me.
#18
Supporting Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
I was thinking about running track only rotors for my 2013 Z06, so this way I wouldn't have to worry about bedding in the carbotech pads (XP10/XP8) to my stock rotors every time. Plus I could travel with my stock rotors as backups to my track only rotors. Is this a good idea?
Any recommendation on a set of mid-grade rotors (front/rear). StopTech Powerslot, DBA T2 Slotted, DBA T3 Club Spec 4000, Stock rears?
Thanks.
Any recommendation on a set of mid-grade rotors (front/rear). StopTech Powerslot, DBA T2 Slotted, DBA T3 Club Spec 4000, Stock rears?
Thanks.
__________________
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
#19
Drifting
You are about 95% of the way done with a rotor swap when you change pads. At that point it is 2 bolts out, 2 bolts in. It adds about 30 seconds of work to each side and you don't have to worry about matching compounds. For the street, use what works best on the street and for the track, use what works best on the track.
Jim
#20
You mention your DTC's were quiet? I run HP+ and they get Public Bus loud its terrible....