C U IN REARVEIW

getting ready to install my joc bars and need to know if their is any special directions that I need to do to ensure proper setup (bought them used w/o instructions)...oem endlinks.

crimlwC6

Not that I recall. It is very helpful to have an extra set of hands and a lift if possible.

UrbanKnight

Nope, easy install, its the revers of taking the old ones off, not very hard, unless you have a cull rear diffuser, like APR.... Otherwise, 18mm open end wrench, and a 8mm and go to town!

ROBMARZ

Start with the middle setting on the rear swaybar. I hope you got the correct bushing for the bigger bars too.

The end links form Pfadt started making a lot of noise for me with weeks. I replaced with the quiet end links from LG.

Good luck

ErnieN85

Just make sure the bars swivel in the bushings. if they are to tight a couple of washers between the cradle & clamp will loosen them up

C U IN REARVEIW

thanks guys

froggy47

Check my video's on sway bars.

Click below.

V4kerker

c u in rearview if you have a base c6 you'll need to add spacers in the bushing bracket clamp so you don't compress them. The OEM clamps are made for the OEM rubber bushings. Love my JOC1 setup


OEM front sway bar bushing bracket is to small or needs washers to get the right pinch on bushing.

C U IN REARVEIW

Will I need longer bolts due to the use of spacers? Front definately needs em......

C U IN REARVEIW

are adjustable endlinks needed/suggested? I have been told that oem endlinks will hit front control arm during bumps? I also am running phadt featherlight c/o's. also,how do you "zero out" the swaybars??

V4kerker

Here's a pic without the washers/spacers. Just fill in in as needed. I think you can get replacement bushings at Vansteel. Get some good end link also get rid of the OEM ones.
C U IN REARVIEW I used the OEM bolts. Tighten down just enough to hold it firmly but it still moves/ rotates. Use a little bit of silicone grease/lube.

http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...structions.pdf
Link to instructions for sway bar install from Pfadt website.

Scooter70

To eliminate preload you need at least one adjustable link on each sway bar. Install one end link (either stock or adjustable one set to stock length) on one side. Drive car back and forth a few times to settle suspension. Drive up on ramps or 4-post lift so that you can get to the other end of the bar to install the other link. You want the full weight of the car on the wheels. (If you really want to be accurate, have the driver's weight in the seat.) Adjust the length of the second link so that the bolt slides in easily. Torque everything down and you're done.

LateBreak

Don't forget to grease the ID of your bushings so that the bars move freely

strano@stranoparts.com

Uh... I sell endlinks, but if you are buying new ones because of noise after a bar swap, you are wasting your money (if that's the reason vs. getting adjustability). Simply put the pinch nuts on the links don't hold as well once taken of. So, use some blue loctite and no more noise.

froggy47

Not unless you have the wrong bushing. I've put 2-3 washers (say 3mm) with the stock bolt & no issue, torque the bolt.

froggy47

And regrease at LEAST yearly

C U IN REARVEIW

Thanks

NealB

PM sent

C U IN REARVEIW

Now if I wanted to go with all four adjustable links (future corner balance capabilities), how do I go about setting the correct length to eliminate preload?

Scooter70

The adjustable links aren't about corner balancing. (Corner balancing should be done with sway bars detatched.) They're for eliminating the preload. As long as the bolt attaching the second link slides into the hole easily with the full weight of the car on the tires, there isn't any preload on the bar. Set the first link close to stock and then adjust the second one so that it slides right in and you're done.