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I don't believe the cradles move side to side. The passenger side does allow fore/arft movement which can "twist" the cradle so to speak, but nothing that can move side to side....unless you take those pins and remove them or shave them down a bit in size.
Loosening up my cradle and smacking with a dead blow gave me 1/4 degree.
Originally Posted by Dr.Ron
Based on the specs in my lead post, I'd only need shims for the left side. Is it wise to do that??
Done all the time.
Also will intentionally do differential alignments based on track.
Cradle is 4 bolts that go into the frame. Do NOT use an impact on them.
For my own sanity. Are they the camber bolts in the top right in the attached photo. I got my vette 2 weeks ago and I'm looking for more camber.
I only managed to achieve F -2.2 1/8 toe out R -1.3 11/32 toe in at the factory ride height. Going to lower the car and get more but if needed I will hit the cradle out. I would like to achieve -2.7F/-1.8R. I would just prefer not to sacrifice suspension geometry to get the numbers I want, Ideally I would like to lower the as little needed to achieve those numbers.
For my own sanity. Are they the camber bolts in the top right in the attached photo. I got my vette 2 weeks ago and I'm looking for more camber.
I only managed to achieve F -2.2 1/8 toe out R -1.3 11/32 toe in at the factory ride height. Going to lower the car and get more but if needed I will hit the cradle out. I would like to achieve -2.7F/-1.8R. I would just prefer not to sacrifice suspension geometry to get the numbers I want, Ideally I would like to lower the as little needed to achieve those numbers.
No, camber bolts are camber bolts. Cradle bolts are cradle bolts.
Cradle bolts attach THE CRADLE to THE FRAME.
Camber bolts attach the CONTROL ARM to THE CRADLE.
If/when you move the cradle what you gain on one side you lose on the other. You CANNOT gain neg. camber on BOTH sides by moving a single piece cradle, think about it.
Moving it is only of use if your potential adjustment (usually negative) on one side is grossly different from the other. This typically means the car was wrecked & the frame bent. Straighten the frame & start over.
Check my videos as I am pretty sure I show the cradle being dropped when I removed the steering rack.
No, camber bolts are camber bolts. Cradle bolts are cradle bolts.
Cradle bolts attach THE CRADLE to THE FRAME.
Camber bolts attach the CONTROL ARM to THE CRADLE.
If/when you move the cradle what you gain on one side you lose on the other. You CANNOT gain neg. camber on BOTH sides by moving a single piece cradle, think about it.
Moving it is only of use if your potential adjustment (usually negative) on one side is grossly different from the other. This typically means the car was wrecked & the frame bent. Straighten the frame & start over.
Check my videos as I am pretty sure I show the cradle being dropped when I removed the steering rack.
Ok got it. My right side of the car has more and I would like to balance it out.
Ok got it. My right side of the car has more and I would like to balance it out.
Truthfully it seemed like a PITA for small gain. Just use more or less washers depending on side.
If you do not have a good repeatable way of measuring both Camber and Caster & do not understand alignment principals as related to both, do not touch anything.
Truthfully it seemed like a PITA for small gain. Just use more or less washers depending on side.
If you do not have a good repeatable way of measuring both Camber and Caster & do not understand alignment principals as related to both, do not touch anything.
The cradle seems easy enough with a 2 post. I just wanted clarity on the actual bolts that where being discussed. I've been diy alignments for awhile now. I just do not want to slam the car to ruin the geometry and get the car in fighting form for SSR.
Also may want to check wheelbase comparing driver side to pass side. Measure from hub to hub if possible. Spinning the cradle can in turn effect wheelbase / rear caster.
Truthfully it seemed like a PITA for small gain. Just use more or less washers depending on side.
If you do not have a good repeatable way of measuring both Camber and Caster & do not understand alignment principals as related to both, do not touch anything.
I would not bother either just to even things out.
You are going to find that it's not "that" easy to shift it & you may need to grind off the alignment pins to do it.
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