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Anyone have pics of Accusump setup w/manual valve?
Switching from EPC valve to manual after 2 switches gone bad. Car is still a dd. Curious where to put the manual cable switch? I bought a used tank as mine imploded. From what I can tell from install docs, it is ready to go:
This what I had before:
Also, does anyone have a pic of how the cable bracket installs? Didn't see a single one on google.
I was wondering why one would choose to use a manual one over electric and I guess failur is the answer.
I spoke with canton and they thought it would be crazy to use a manual valve for road racing and suggested their electric pressure activated one.
This on a C6 or 5? Curious where you mounted the pump itself and if you ran a remote air pressure gauge.
Interesting, the canton website recommends a manual valve for racing applications. Mine is mounted to the tunnel on the passenger side, but it is not a de and has no passenger seat or interior.
Interesting, the canton website recommends a manual valve for racing applications. Mine is mounted to the tunnel on the passenger side, but it is not a de and has no passenger seat or interior.
canton has started using a different electronic valve. i'm not 100% sure but it looks like it operates much faster. maybe the old electric valve was slower and the new one is a zero restriction.
canton has started using a different electronic valve. i'm not 100% sure but it looks like it operates much faster. maybe the old electric valve was slower and the new one is a zero restriction.
Maybe, the website still says to use the manual valve for racing, but that was the issue with the electric valve, it didn't flow enough to fully discharge and refill between cycles on certain tracks/applications. The electric valve would be much more attractive if the updated version can flow as well as the simple ball valve and is more reliable, there are countless threads with people complaining of various failures over the years.
Maybe, the website still says to use the manual valve for racing, but that was the issue with the electric valve, it didn't flow enough to fully discharge and refill between cycles on certain tracks/applications. The electric valve would be much more attractive if the updated version can flow as well as the simple ball valve and is more reliable, there are countless threads with people complaining of various failures over the years.
Johnny,
The new valves are head and shoulders above the old ones. The new valves use a piston style design instead of the previous versions rubber diaphragm. While the diaphragm weren't a huge issues the piston has much less that can go wrong and will last a lot longer. The new valve is also CNC'd from billet aluminum instead of cast from bronze like the previous valves. This gives it a much better look and actually reduces the weight a bit. We have also improved the packaging of the valve with the pressure switch as the previous version needed a manifold, this new valve has a port integrated into it's body. We are very pleased with how these valves have been performing and the upgrades they offer are well worth the extra cost.
This is an install I did for a friend a while back. I made an aluminum bracket for the bottom of the canister to attach to the frame and at the top I did some trimming of the flange on the inner fender and attached the clamp directly to it.
For the manual cable I made an aluminum bracket to be used as a bulkhead to secure it to the frame and on the actuator end I made a bracket and welded it to the existing aftermarket seat mount. Just so it is clear I did not mount that seat that way, and would never recommend as such.
After two electrical solenoid failures I, too, went to the manual valve several years ago. Mine is also located on the drivers rocker panel. I recently had a problem with the cable not moving. I found the ball post at the end of the cable had worked loose, was cocked sideways and was binding. To avoid it just make sure you double nut it and use some Loctite. Also, be sure to grease socket before attaching to the post.
The actuator and cable you've used came from moroso parts or from another application like fire bottle or boat throttle ?
i've built a manual actuator (snow blower lever/cable )but it needs a thicker internal wire to both open and close the valve fully.
08-12-2015, 11:55 PM
Anyone have pics of Accusump setup w/manual valve?
