r0nd3L

This past weekend I was out at the track for the first time with my C5Z.

Halfway through first session, I noticed my steering wheel was not straight anymore while going down the straight away. I pitted out, jacked the car up, and did inspection. Everything seemed tight: wheel wiggle test, lugs, etc. I proceeded to take caution next session, but everything was fine and I was able to pick up the pace quite a bit and rest of the day went OK despite off center steering wheel.

When I came home, I did more thorough validations. My eccentrics were marked and they did not shift at all and were properly torqued. The steering rack bolts are tight. Subframe bolts tight. Tie rods look ok and adjustment nuts are tight.

I'm sort of out of ideas and feel concerned I cannot find the root cause. I'm looking for the help/ideas from the knowledgeable folks in forum, much appreciate any input!

Car setup:
-Mild cam
-Full Exhaust
-K&N Intake
-B&M shifter
-Raybestos ST-43 pads
-DRM/LG Brake duct setup
-DRM Bilstein shocks
-18x9.5" / 19x11" with 275/305 Toyo R888 running about 34-35psi hot.
-Track alignment (-3* front camber, some toe-out, -1.5* rear camber, some toe-in)
-Sparco steering wheel, Sparco seats, Schroth 6pt harness, Brey kaurs harness bar

froggy47

Well, if it's just the steering wheel that's off, then it's the tie rod adjusters that moved, or ball joints, or wheel bearing. Or inside attachment of tie rod (rare).

FASTFATBOY

If the lower control arm moves in front, it changes toe and steering wheel.

Do a ride height check, My Z28 did that with a broken front shock. It also did it when I bent a rear lower control arm bracket and the rear end was crooked in the car.

Bill Dearborn

Check the bushings in both the upper and lower control arms. The front bushings on my 97 slipped over time with both the upper and lower control arms moving rearward on the bushings which upset camber, caster and toe without ever changing the cams.

Bill

mdavis7

I second this. Had similar experience as you with my C6 GS and it was lower control arms bushings lead to a complete change of alignment in addition to actual movement. See below..





Doesn't look like it but look at mark on top, completely moved!

froggy47

I have NEW T1 upper control arms for sale if you need them. See in c5 autox for sale section.

Please post what you find as to cause.

r0nd3L

Whoever mentioned check rear of the car gets a cookie

Both rear eccentric bolts slipped by several degrees. Thankfully the shop marked the eccentrics so I was able to set them back to where they should be. I will go for a drive and see how the car feels.

I think this would explain why the rear of the car felt rather lose all day, especially on corner entry. I also noticed I need more rear camber as I wore the outside edges a tad past the arrow on R888.

Thanks everybody for your input!

ErnieN85

put a torque wrench on the nuts and hold the bolt with a big wrench when you put them back.
they don't slip when tightened correctly (usually)
if that doesn't work you need camber plates

edge04

went off track on sat. I didn't hit anything but it was a violent drive over the rumble strips into the grass and back on. Noticed Sun that my steering wheel also was off and to the left. Will look at it this week but glad I saw this thread.

froggy47

You said in the original post:

"When I came home, I did more thorough validations. My eccentrics were marked and they did not shift at all and were properly torqued. The steering rack bolts are tight. Subframe bolts tight. Tie rods look ok and adjustment nuts are tight."

Glad you found it.

mdavis7

Glad to help!

FASTFATBOY

I would like a dozen chocolate chip cookies please, I need to keep my figure up. I'm hella fast in the left handers.

Split them with you Mdavis7

r0nd3L

I have failed to check the rear of the car.

r0nd3L