Tighter steering ratio, tighter on center steering rack for C5/C6?
#61
Drifting
I am interested in this thread as well.
1. What's involved in a rack swap from a C5 to a better unit?
2. Who here has paired this swap with swapping from C5 uprights to 2009+ C6 uprights/steering knuckles? That's supposed to quicken your ratio a bit.
3. Which solid bushings do people here like, specifically?
1. What's involved in a rack swap from a C5 to a better unit?
2. Who here has paired this swap with swapping from C5 uprights to 2009+ C6 uprights/steering knuckles? That's supposed to quicken your ratio a bit.
3. Which solid bushings do people here like, specifically?
#62
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I saw in a Gspeed thread, where they are doing the mega lightweight C5Z, that they swapped a C6 rack in direct, despite a lot of people saying you couldn't.
I did some research on the C6 setup and it seems the knuckles have the tie rod point further out, not closer...so the effect would be opposite of faster steering, when mated with the C5 rack. I am continually looking and assessing which route to go, but I've been AGAIN, in the midst of a shop move and have just been driving my car as is. I've been working hard to strike a balance of street compliance, but sharpness as well. It's a pretty delicate line to walk when you really try to dial in the right type of compliance but the right amount of precision. I'm really looking for that GT3'esque compromise.
I did some research on the C6 setup and it seems the knuckles have the tie rod point further out, not closer...so the effect would be opposite of faster steering, when mated with the C5 rack. I am continually looking and assessing which route to go, but I've been AGAIN, in the midst of a shop move and have just been driving my car as is. I've been working hard to strike a balance of street compliance, but sharpness as well. It's a pretty delicate line to walk when you really try to dial in the right type of compliance but the right amount of precision. I'm really looking for that GT3'esque compromise.
#63
Burning Brakes
#65
Bringing this back from the dead...hoping some new feedback can be learned.
What would you get, if your whole front subframe was being replaced, and the steering rack and tie rods were trashed. All is getting replaced, with coilovers already here. So you are starting from fresh, and ONLY tracking the car....
Would you just get stock replacement? Swap from another car? Upgrade to an aftermarket?
What would you get, if your whole front subframe was being replaced, and the steering rack and tie rods were trashed. All is getting replaced, with coilovers already here. So you are starting from fresh, and ONLY tracking the car....
Would you just get stock replacement? Swap from another car? Upgrade to an aftermarket?
#66
Burning Brakes
you know I've been reading this thread and wondering the same, the two 'bad' things of the vette imo is the steering feel and the brakes (I don't care what anyone says stock brakes suck, adding more aggressive pads somewhat works but then fade still comes on, rotors are too small, and they don't last). But... the steering feel.. yeah... vague and dead in comparison to many many many other cars... I can't believe this hasn't been addressed until now... I mean I did install a 330mm wheel and it feels soooo much better but the actual 'feel' and that on center feel is crap...
#67
Instructor
The very first thing I did to my car was quicken the steering.
I drilled a 1/2" hole, .7 of an inch back from the original hole (shorten the arm)
Use a 1/2" bolt and 1/2" rod end for bump steer and make up a link tube for tie rod, (1/2" on one end, Metric on the other)
Use spacers behind the ***** on the steering rack for stops. (Ford makes some snap in plastic stops of different sizes.)
Best thing you can do to the car. IMO
I drilled a 1/2" hole, .7 of an inch back from the original hole (shorten the arm)
Use a 1/2" bolt and 1/2" rod end for bump steer and make up a link tube for tie rod, (1/2" on one end, Metric on the other)
Use spacers behind the ***** on the steering rack for stops. (Ford makes some snap in plastic stops of different sizes.)
Best thing you can do to the car. IMO
#68
Safety Car
The very first thing I did to my car was quicken the steering.
I drilled a 1/2" hole, .7 of an inch back from the original hole (shorten the arm)
Use a 1/2" bolt and 1/2" rod end for bump steer and make up a link tube for tie rod, (1/2" on one end, Metric on the other)
Use spacers behind the ***** on the steering rack for stops. (Ford makes some snap in plastic stops of different sizes.)
Best thing you can do to the car. IMO
I drilled a 1/2" hole, .7 of an inch back from the original hole (shorten the arm)
Use a 1/2" bolt and 1/2" rod end for bump steer and make up a link tube for tie rod, (1/2" on one end, Metric on the other)
Use spacers behind the ***** on the steering rack for stops. (Ford makes some snap in plastic stops of different sizes.)
Best thing you can do to the car. IMO
#69
Melting Slicks
The very first thing I did to my car was quicken the steering.
I drilled a 1/2" hole, .7 of an inch back from the original hole (shorten the arm)
Use a 1/2" bolt and 1/2" rod end for bump steer and make up a link tube for tie rod, (1/2" on one end, Metric on the other)
Use spacers behind the ***** on the steering rack for stops. (Ford makes some snap in plastic stops of different sizes.)
Best thing you can do to the car. IMO
I drilled a 1/2" hole, .7 of an inch back from the original hole (shorten the arm)
Use a 1/2" bolt and 1/2" rod end for bump steer and make up a link tube for tie rod, (1/2" on one end, Metric on the other)
Use spacers behind the ***** on the steering rack for stops. (Ford makes some snap in plastic stops of different sizes.)
Best thing you can do to the car. IMO
Just to add more info / another solution to this thread:
My C5Z currently runs the FDF Mini Mantis Angle Kit on the mild setting, with 5mm rack spacers to limit steering travel a tad so there aren't any rubs.
Using a custom device which goes between the SWPS (steering wheel position sensor) and car/EBCM, I tweak the SWPS signal so that Active Handling is effectively unaware of the quicker steering. I have been posting my progress on the device starting here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1603268994
It's worth mentioning I did all this work just to have more steering travel as the car is a DD more than anything else, and therefore haven't tested the device in a situation more extreme than spirited daily driving. For me, the quicker steering was merely a very welcomed side-effect which honestly just makes the car's steering feel "normal".
#70
I said this a little bit wrong I think....
My car's (C5Z) steering response with the poly bushings, good alignment, good shocks, OEM springs, bars, and good street tires is good. Sets quick, stays true, and is predictable, BUT it is really the steering FEEDBACK that is lacking compared to some other cars in the class.
Some cars just have that connected to the road steering communication, GM just didn't do it for us....
My car's (C5Z) steering response with the poly bushings, good alignment, good shocks, OEM springs, bars, and good street tires is good. Sets quick, stays true, and is predictable, BUT it is really the steering FEEDBACK that is lacking compared to some other cars in the class.
Some cars just have that connected to the road steering communication, GM just didn't do it for us....
Definitely agree. If you want that road feel the c7 is where it's at. My C6 feels reel vague