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Anyone have input on crankcase pressure solutions?
I have a stroked 402 that was leaking oil at VIR Monday. I am assuming it is crankcase pressure pushing it our the rear seal as I see no oil anywhere else. After researching, I have found these 3 options:
Mighty Mouse can approx. $220. Here is a vid of his can in action:
COSpeed replied in detail about their can - appros $350:
Hi Johnny,
What your experiencing is common. By defeating the evacuation functions of the PCV system, you now are allowing pressure to build and be present in the crankcase as a breather relies on greater pressure to be present behind it to force release through the breather. Simple flow dynamics. We see this more and more, and as this went out technical wise in the mid 1960's and is not used in any professional motorsport's as it also leaves nearly all the contaminates that most be remove from the crankcase before they can settle and mix with the engine oil in the crankcase. So several issues. This also causes instability of the piston rings allowing even greater blow-by compounding the issue. Odd's are your seal will be fine as soon as you install a proper system that pulls suction on the crankcase correcting these issues as usually it is a leak by the pressure in the crankcase pushing oil past the seal more often than the seal being displaced.
Now, yes, our Monster system or the Elite E2-X Ultra (same size and design internally) will provide evacuation using the intake manifold when at idle, light cruise, and deceleration when the intake manifold is providing vacuum. But when you accelerate or go WOT, the cam lobe overlap creates reversion pulses that cancel any usable vacuum, so we use the suction present just in front (up stream) of the throttle body to continue evacuation during acceleration and WOT operation. The checkvalves prevent and back flow, and also automatically default to the strongest suction source available at the time.
This has other benefits. Currently as your allowing pressure to build and be present, the pistons are fighting this pressure on each down stroke and that robs power parasitically. As piston rings are designed to maintain stability and seal properly only with pressure above them, and suction below, installing a proper system corrects all of this.
You want our Monster system (40 oz. capacity and good to well over 1000 hp) and the billet cleanside separator to do this correctly.
Also, are you running the stock valve covers? If not, most aftermarket units have no baffling underneath and contribute to oil and pressure issues as well. The LS3/L99 OEM valve covers work the best in controlling this.
Hope that helps!
Let me know and I can guide you through the installation step by step as well, and after you install the system and track the car, please make a thread about your experiences. It only seems this crowd of modern muscle shops don;t understand how critical proper evacuation is ( all internal combustion engines must have a filtered MAF metered fresh air source entering one bank of the engine to flush and replace the foul oil and contaminate laden vapors being evacuated from the opposite bank.
Watch this video to see the impact on the dyno of a small displacement V8 turning similar RPM's that you do. Venting VS pulling suction on the crankcase:
There is far more to consider in proper crankcase evacuation, and "venting" is a negative to an engine no matter what. Wear is many times that of an engine where the contaminates constantly entering as blow-by are left to settle and accumulate in the oil VS being flushed and removed before they can mix.
Let me know if I can be of more assistance!
And finally the full GZvacuum punp - approx. $1000.
I have the three ports on the valve covers tee'd together to one breather can and the line from valley cover run through another breather can. Very little oil in catch cans and none coming out breather on valve cover can. This is my current set up:
Just wanting to see if someone has had success with breathers before going the GZ pump.
My unresolved problem is spitting out 3oz of oil per 2.5mile race lap out the valve cover bleeder on a stock LS6 motor. The valley is clean. I will have to do some tests to find out what is wrong. I will do a leakdown compression and put a vac gauge on the valvecover to see if my crank case is getting pressurized.
In your case I would do the same tests to see if the rear main seal was getting pressurized. It is possible you are leaking there because you got a bad one.
My unresolved problem is spitting out 3oz of oil per 2.5mile race lap out the valve cover bleeder on a stock LS6 motor. The valley is clean. I will have to do some tests to find out what is wrong. I will do a leakdown compression and put a vac gauge on the valvecover to see if my crank case is getting pressurized.
In your case I would do the same tests to see if the rear main seal was getting pressurized. It is possible you are leaking there because you got a bad one.
GM made a drivers valve cover with better baffling for the 5.3 that were having all the oil ingestion issues. I believe it came on all later trucks and suvs (2012+ ??).
Mine does not seem to have the oil ingestion as catch cans are mostly empty and tb is clean. Ordering the CoSpeed set up tomorrow and try that at track.
Mine does not seem to have the oil ingestion as catch cans are mostly empty and tb is clean. Ordering the CoSpeed set up tomorrow and try that at track.
Thanks.
i wish you the best of luck.
the flaw is assuming that either the engine filter or the intake manifold will always have enough suction and flow to equalize the crank pressure, which simply is not always true... especially with aftermarket combinations.
it is interesting the popular video to explain a catch can function does not in any way show or demonstrate their product...
let me try that for example:
mms has the best catch cans! just have a look at this vacuum cleaner!
see how powerful and amazing it is.. simply the best vacuum!
-and that my friends is your proof why mms catch cans are the best.
For several years I ran a simple one vent catch can on my C5Z that did catch quite a bit of oil but I would have little oil spatters all over the back of the car. The engine was still ingesting some oil and spitting it out. I installed this catch can setup last year -
The rear of the car is now clean and the catch can really picks up the oil. The car runs stronger (higher RPM) on a well run course. Has to be from no excess oil in the combustion chamber. This elite catch can has input from the open throttle side and the closed throttle side with one way check valves on each. It works for me.
The prob with any catch can setup is it will increase pressure. The main point is to keep pressure low in the CC, then if you can accomplish this + filtering great. I searched but could not find any pressure comparisons between the diff setups. Drilled valve cover with a pressure gauge would be very good data I think.
Lower pressure is better for HP, but there's a point (maybe around baro) that is acceptable for longevity/seals.
The prob with any catch can setup is it will increase pressure. The main point is to keep pressure low in the CC, then if you can accomplish this + filtering great. I searched but could not find any pressure comparisons between the diff setups. Drilled valve cover with a pressure gauge would be very good data I think.
Lower pressure is better for HP, but there's a point (maybe around baro) that is acceptable for longevity/seals.
Josh did you watch the two videos of mine in this thread?
Mine does not seem to have the oil ingestion as catch cans are mostly empty and tb is clean. Ordering the CoSpeed set up tomorrow and try that at track.
Thanks.
Save money and get the MM can. You'll thank me later. It's a killer product
Josh did you watch the two videos of mine in this thread?
Just looked... good that you are showing pressure. But idle is easy with plenty of vacuum.
How about part and WOT when there's less (or no) vacuum? WOT likely vents pre-TB (fresh air side). Pressure at diff throttle positions comparing stock vs catch can would be great info.
It goes baro with the very large vent/1 way check valve. The only way to prevent this is with a vacuum pump. In the blower area, every who's been sick of blowing seals out goes to the MM can, myself included. Tired ls2+14psi= blowby
the flaw is assuming that either the engine filter or the intake manifold will always have enough suction and flow to equalize the crank pressure, which simply is not always true... especially with aftermarket combinations.
it is interesting the popular video to explain a catch can function does not in any way show or demonstrate their product...
let me try that for example:
mms has the best catch cans! just have a look at this vacuum cleaner!
see how powerful and amazing it is.. simply the best vacuum!
-and that my friends is your proof why mms catch cans are the best.
I have no problem with the MM can. My logic was the CoSpeed/Elite can would have better name recognition if it didn't work and I had to sell and go to the GZ pump. I don't spend any time in the FI section anymore, so I don't know how it is perceived there. That was my logic.
For several years I ran a simple one vent catch can on my C5Z that did catch quite a bit of oil but I would have little oil spatters all over the back of the car. The engine was still ingesting some oil and spitting it out. I installed this catch can setup last year -
The rear of the car is now clean and the catch can really picks up the oil. The car runs stronger (higher RPM) on a well run course. Has to be from no excess oil in the combustion chamber. This elite catch can has input from the open throttle side and the closed throttle side with one way check valves on each. It works for me.
10-29-2016, 12:22 PM
Anyone have input on crankcase pressure solutions?
