STANG KILLA goes "racin" Part 2
09-08-2017, 12:05 PM
#88
Safety Car
Thread Starter
lol i said the same thing about the people in the hurricanes, yet there still getting killed, cars lost etc. i just dont understand that.
sadly i discovered road racing late in life, about 2.5 years ago, right about the time they announced TWS would be shutting down. been lucky to get the extra year out of it though. definatly gonna miss the place.
sadly i discovered road racing late in life, about 2.5 years ago, right about the time they announced TWS would be shutting down. been lucky to get the extra year out of it though. definatly gonna miss the place.
10-29-2017, 06:28 PM
#90
Safety Car
Thread Starter
well ive been taking some time off after TWS closed permanatly to store Hurricane Harvey flood cars 
Attachment 48355784
but starting to tinker with the car again. decided to install a quick release race wheel to help aid entry and exit with the fixed seats.
pulled off the airbag first by inserting two allen wrenches in the two holes on the side of the wheel. push in to move the spring pins/rods and it pops right off. amazing how little was holding it in.
Attachment 48355294
couple people said you could just wiggle the wheel off, that was bull. so i bought this little cheap puller and ground it down to fit into the two tiny holes in the pot metal wheel center. it broke imidiatly.
Attachment 48355295
after removing 3 screws for the horn buttons, i realized i could get the sheetmetal center out of the way, and get a real 2/3 jaw puller on it.
Attachment 48355296
worked great and came right off.
Attachment 48355297
picked up NRG 2.5 quick release and hub for the C6 splines.
Attachment 48355298
both the factory spline and NRG stuff was well marked for up/alignment.
hub on
Attachment 48355299
unfortunatly there wasnt enough of a cavity in the hub for the large plug and two air bag plugs. since i like to make everything reversable i stoped and ordered a 1" spacer (1/2" would have worked) to create a larger void for the plugs to stay.
Attachment 48355300
made this adapter with solid wire pins to spade connectors, to adapt the factory plug to the spades on all the NRG hubs
Attachment 48355301
stuck it into the factory connector, note the wire on either side of the connector are different colors! do not match. so you have to really trace them out to make sure your pluging into the right pins.
Attachment 48355302
found a cheap Chinese knock off of a Momo wheel on ebay.
at this point i stoped taking pics. ran into a snag with the wheel/horn button, that kept grounding itself to the hub and either not fitting or later setting the horn off driving me and my neighbors crazy. finally got that sorted 45 minutes later and rest was a breeze.
Attachment 48355303
Attachment 48355304
Attachment 48355305
Attachment 48355306
i took some before and after measurements
stock wheel: 19" from wheel to seat (plus width of tape measure)
"Momo" with NRG hubs, PLUS 1" spacer: 18.25" (plus width of tape measure)
Attachment 48355784
but starting to tinker with the car again. decided to install a quick release race wheel to help aid entry and exit with the fixed seats.
pulled off the airbag first by inserting two allen wrenches in the two holes on the side of the wheel. push in to move the spring pins/rods and it pops right off. amazing how little was holding it in.
Attachment 48355294
couple people said you could just wiggle the wheel off, that was bull. so i bought this little cheap puller and ground it down to fit into the two tiny holes in the pot metal wheel center. it broke imidiatly.
Attachment 48355295
after removing 3 screws for the horn buttons, i realized i could get the sheetmetal center out of the way, and get a real 2/3 jaw puller on it.
Attachment 48355296
worked great and came right off.
Attachment 48355297
picked up NRG 2.5 quick release and hub for the C6 splines.
Attachment 48355298
both the factory spline and NRG stuff was well marked for up/alignment.
hub on
Attachment 48355299
unfortunatly there wasnt enough of a cavity in the hub for the large plug and two air bag plugs. since i like to make everything reversable i stoped and ordered a 1" spacer (1/2" would have worked) to create a larger void for the plugs to stay.
Attachment 48355300
made this adapter with solid wire pins to spade connectors, to adapt the factory plug to the spades on all the NRG hubs
Attachment 48355301
stuck it into the factory connector, note the wire on either side of the connector are different colors! do not match. so you have to really trace them out to make sure your pluging into the right pins.
Attachment 48355302
found a cheap Chinese knock off of a Momo wheel on ebay.
at this point i stoped taking pics. ran into a snag with the wheel/horn button, that kept grounding itself to the hub and either not fitting or later setting the horn off driving me and my neighbors crazy. finally got that sorted 45 minutes later and rest was a breeze.
Attachment 48355303
Attachment 48355304
Attachment 48355305
Attachment 48355306
i took some before and after measurements
stock wheel: 19" from wheel to seat (plus width of tape measure)
"Momo" with NRG hubs, PLUS 1" spacer: 18.25" (plus width of tape measure)
03-25-2018, 10:18 PM
#91
Safety Car
Thread Starter
spring is here. time to get back at it again.
been tired of the deafin your hearing after 15 minutes loud exhaust. i like loud but this makes you not be able to hear the person talking to you in your face, and thats after the motors off.
stage 1. vibration dampning. most people think dynamat is for sounds. its for vibrations, that cause resonance. the truck floor of the vette is a giant plastic bass drum.
i picked up the Noico mat from amazon.
its slightly thicker than Dynomat, and alot cheaper.
this 18sqft kit was perfect for the vettes trunk area.
i also did the vertical areas behind the seats where it transitions from trunk floor height to floor boards heights. these panels are actually steel unlike the trunk floor.
i did before and after testing. twice using 2 different cell phone apps (im sure there not that accurate as a decibel meter, but all i was after was relative difference)
i did idle, 1500rpm, 2000, 2500, 3000, part thottle under load, and WOT.
i wont post them all but idle was 79 dbs, and load and WOT were both 85 dbs. both before and after the Noico mat. was a total waste of time and the 12 pounds it added to the car. obviously vibes werent part of my problem.
previously i removed the panel below the radiator to let air in from below, as well as from front grill. after testing it wasnt better or worse, but i decided to go back to the way GM intended it. with a bit of an improvement.
with the factory panel gone
with aluminum i made to bridge the gap from the black bar where the factory panel attaches and to the radiator. ie so no air can slip underneith the radiator, all must pass threw it. there was a good 1-2" gap. and air will take the path of least resisance. especially with the rear tilt rad.
and with factory panel added to that. now all air must come threw grill and pass threw rad.
been tired of the deafin your hearing after 15 minutes loud exhaust. i like loud but this makes you not be able to hear the person talking to you in your face, and thats after the motors off.
stage 1. vibration dampning. most people think dynamat is for sounds. its for vibrations, that cause resonance. the truck floor of the vette is a giant plastic bass drum.
i picked up the Noico mat from amazon.
its slightly thicker than Dynomat, and alot cheaper.
this 18sqft kit was perfect for the vettes trunk area.
i also did the vertical areas behind the seats where it transitions from trunk floor height to floor boards heights. these panels are actually steel unlike the trunk floor.
i did before and after testing. twice using 2 different cell phone apps (im sure there not that accurate as a decibel meter, but all i was after was relative difference)
i did idle, 1500rpm, 2000, 2500, 3000, part thottle under load, and WOT.
i wont post them all but idle was 79 dbs, and load and WOT were both 85 dbs. both before and after the Noico mat. was a total waste of time and the 12 pounds it added to the car. obviously vibes werent part of my problem.
previously i removed the panel below the radiator to let air in from below, as well as from front grill. after testing it wasnt better or worse, but i decided to go back to the way GM intended it. with a bit of an improvement.
with the factory panel gone
with aluminum i made to bridge the gap from the black bar where the factory panel attaches and to the radiator. ie so no air can slip underneith the radiator, all must pass threw it. there was a good 1-2" gap. and air will take the path of least resisance. especially with the rear tilt rad.
and with factory panel added to that. now all air must come threw grill and pass threw rad.
03-25-2018, 10:56 PM
#92
Safety Car
Thread Starter
decided i wanted to run a staggered setup this year. 315/335s. this meant new wheels. decided to get my first ever set of custom forged wheels. went with forgestar as they were the only remotely affordable company. i waited 3 months for there Black friday sale and then jumped in.
using my old 18x10.5 repros and some spacers. i got the specs worked out as to what i wanted. 18X11 fronts and 18x12 rears, super deep concave, with the appropriate backspacing.
sadly the CF5 design i wanted wasnt available in 13" rears.
hit up 5 Corvette forum vendors that sold them. told them the sizes and specs i wanted. only 1 vendor, "Get Your Wheels", took the time to work with me and my specs, even getting there tech and a Z06 to take some measurements as well. everyone wanted to sell me a safe +38m for the fronts. i knew this would stick out of the fenders. not acceptable. between the two of us measureing we found that up to +50mm would be safe to clear everything. and have no to little rubbing on the brake ducts at full lock. i decided on 45mm. right in between. if i had to do it again. i might do closer to 50mm. but had no way to be sure. so wanted some safetly margin. they fit great with no stick out.
On the rears i went with the GM +59mm from the stock 12" rears. wish i would have gone less. sticking the wheel out closer to the edge of the wheel well. there tucked a bit. easy fix with some 3/16" spacers i already had.
"Get your wheels" also priced match AND beat another vendors lowest price from the bunch. AND send me free black locking lug nuts and tool.
took another 3.5 months to have them machined and done.....
they arrived!!!!
Attachment 48353633
test fits
Attachment 48353634
Attachment 48353635
tons o BBK clearance
Attachment 48353636
a week before mine were done, i found out the forgestars werent hub centric. but that rings were available. luckily these were included. center caps too. sadly the centric rings wouldnt sit far enough inside the barrel. so the wheel wouldnt fully seat and sit flat. had to grind most of the outer bevel lip off the centric ring so the wheel mount surface could sit flat.
Attachment 48353637
one wheel had a chip right at the center cap bore, and looked like there was more black powdercoat under it. like it was repowdercoated once. also that wheel only the center cap wouldnt fit right. it was too tight. again like it had been powdercoated twice. closing the tolerances.
wrapped the wheels in Rival S and got them mounted!
those 335s look SO good from the rear!
Attachment 48353638
Attachment 48353639
Attachment 48353640
using my old 18x10.5 repros and some spacers. i got the specs worked out as to what i wanted. 18X11 fronts and 18x12 rears, super deep concave, with the appropriate backspacing.
sadly the CF5 design i wanted wasnt available in 13" rears.
hit up 5 Corvette forum vendors that sold them. told them the sizes and specs i wanted. only 1 vendor, "Get Your Wheels", took the time to work with me and my specs, even getting there tech and a Z06 to take some measurements as well. everyone wanted to sell me a safe +38m for the fronts. i knew this would stick out of the fenders. not acceptable. between the two of us measureing we found that up to +50mm would be safe to clear everything. and have no to little rubbing on the brake ducts at full lock. i decided on 45mm. right in between. if i had to do it again. i might do closer to 50mm. but had no way to be sure. so wanted some safetly margin. they fit great with no stick out.
On the rears i went with the GM +59mm from the stock 12" rears. wish i would have gone less. sticking the wheel out closer to the edge of the wheel well. there tucked a bit. easy fix with some 3/16" spacers i already had.
"Get your wheels" also priced match AND beat another vendors lowest price from the bunch. AND send me free black locking lug nuts and tool.
took another 3.5 months to have them machined and done.....
they arrived!!!!
Attachment 48353633
test fits
Attachment 48353634
Attachment 48353635
tons o BBK clearance
Attachment 48353636
a week before mine were done, i found out the forgestars werent hub centric. but that rings were available. luckily these were included. center caps too. sadly the centric rings wouldnt sit far enough inside the barrel. so the wheel wouldnt fully seat and sit flat. had to grind most of the outer bevel lip off the centric ring so the wheel mount surface could sit flat.
Attachment 48353637
one wheel had a chip right at the center cap bore, and looked like there was more black powdercoat under it. like it was repowdercoated once. also that wheel only the center cap wouldnt fit right. it was too tight. again like it had been powdercoated twice. closing the tolerances.
wrapped the wheels in Rival S and got them mounted!
those 335s look SO good from the rear!
Attachment 48353638
Attachment 48353639
Attachment 48353640
03-25-2018, 11:24 PM
#93
Safety Car
Thread Starter
NCCC Autocross!
unfortunately my cam always bumps me way up in the classes (internal motor work) even though a stock C7 Z06 has 150 hp on me.
loved this C3 with the fender flares, lemans headlights, 6" lip CCW classics, and it sounded goooood.
never seen this color, camera and clouds couldnt pick it up. i looked REAL close in all the cracks. it didnt appear to be a wrap.
ended up have my O2 sensors throw burned out heater codes, half way threw the day, and 1 lean code. in the first vid you can actually hear the motor running rough at mid throttle. i raced anyway.
vid of me testing the limits of the new tires. lol too much.
ended up winning 1st in my class, and 2nd for the overall fastest time of the day. Bested by a great driver in a C7 Z06 on slicks.
my last run of the day was my best. this is it. 48.7
unfortunately my cam always bumps me way up in the classes (internal motor work) even though a stock C7 Z06 has 150 hp on me.
loved this C3 with the fender flares, lemans headlights, 6" lip CCW classics, and it sounded goooood.
never seen this color, camera and clouds couldnt pick it up. i looked REAL close in all the cracks. it didnt appear to be a wrap.
ended up have my O2 sensors throw burned out heater codes, half way threw the day, and 1 lean code. in the first vid you can actually hear the motor running rough at mid throttle. i raced anyway.
vid of me testing the limits of the new tires. lol too much.
ended up winning 1st in my class, and 2nd for the overall fastest time of the day. Bested by a great driver in a C7 Z06 on slicks.
my last run of the day was my best. this is it. 48.7
04-04-2018, 07:43 PM
#95
Safety Car
Thread Starter
well after getting the two o2 heater codes i ordered new ones. while i waited for them i wrapped the headers from the o2s to as far forward as i could reach under the car. to try to help keep the exhaust hotter back to the o2s. picked up 100' of DEI Titanium wrap. was my first time attempting wrapping.
also wrapped the x pipe to aid in footwell and tunnel heat. the 100' was perfect amount.
short version of long story:
o2s were supposed to be delivered friday, the night before my local autocross. well by 4pm they werent delievered and i got nervous. ordered another pair locally for backup.
i get home and pair # 1 is delivered. i open boxes and the plugs are wrong. turns out i ordered rears thinking the heaters would be better, not thinking the plugs might be different. wires were all different colors, couldnt even re wire the old plug on.
no worries i have a back up set waiting.... go check it. sombitch rear square plug too. 5 o clock panic. i called every Oreillys, Advanced, Autozone, AND dealer ship within 4 cities from me and NO ONE had front O2s. all had rears. finally tracked down one 1 hour south of me, and another 30 minutes west of me opposite directions. a 3 hour road trip later i had the 2 unicorns in hand. pulled late nighter in the dark and get them in.
clear codes and test fire. codes come back. by this time its 11pm and im done. come inside to find a lucky post by someone on corvette forum saying exposed wires will pop a fuse and give O2 heater codes. i did find melted O2 extention wires i re-covered. went out and sure enough that fuse is blown. but too late to retest. replace it and fire it up in the morning with no issues or codes.
so theres a good chance my old O2s were never bad, just melted extension wires poping the fuse and giving the heater codes.......
autocross time!
unfortunatly i was the last class of the day. my first run didnt start until 1:30. fastest time of the day to that point was a 41.2 after 4 rounds. i went out on my first pass and ran a 39.9
i couldnt believe it. and neither could everyone else. racers and crowd was cheering me on all day. and asking for ride alongs. was a TON of fun!
couple of outside views sent to me
ended up having the fastest RWD and overall time of the day.
im at the very bottom
last/fastest run of the day: 38 flat!
not sure why i was stabbing the throttle like a monkey threw those first series of lefts. i had been smooth there all day. i was getting tired i guess. was able to make the time back up in the 3 final 180s thanks to a tip to slow down more and slide less. it worked!
also wrapped the x pipe to aid in footwell and tunnel heat. the 100' was perfect amount.
short version of long story:
o2s were supposed to be delivered friday, the night before my local autocross. well by 4pm they werent delievered and i got nervous. ordered another pair locally for backup.
i get home and pair # 1 is delivered. i open boxes and the plugs are wrong. turns out i ordered rears thinking the heaters would be better, not thinking the plugs might be different. wires were all different colors, couldnt even re wire the old plug on.
no worries i have a back up set waiting.... go check it. sombitch rear square plug too. 5 o clock panic. i called every Oreillys, Advanced, Autozone, AND dealer ship within 4 cities from me and NO ONE had front O2s. all had rears. finally tracked down one 1 hour south of me, and another 30 minutes west of me opposite directions. a 3 hour road trip later i had the 2 unicorns in hand. pulled late nighter in the dark and get them in.
clear codes and test fire. codes come back. by this time its 11pm and im done. come inside to find a lucky post by someone on corvette forum saying exposed wires will pop a fuse and give O2 heater codes. i did find melted O2 extention wires i re-covered. went out and sure enough that fuse is blown. but too late to retest. replace it and fire it up in the morning with no issues or codes.
so theres a good chance my old O2s were never bad, just melted extension wires poping the fuse and giving the heater codes.......
autocross time!
unfortunatly i was the last class of the day. my first run didnt start until 1:30. fastest time of the day to that point was a 41.2 after 4 rounds. i went out on my first pass and ran a 39.9
i couldnt believe it. and neither could everyone else. racers and crowd was cheering me on all day. and asking for ride alongs. was a TON of fun!
couple of outside views sent to me
ended up having the fastest RWD and overall time of the day.
im at the very bottom
last/fastest run of the day: 38 flat!
not sure why i was stabbing the throttle like a monkey threw those first series of lefts. i had been smooth there all day. i was getting tired i guess. was able to make the time back up in the 3 final 180s thanks to a tip to slow down more and slide less. it worked!
05-03-2018, 06:35 PM
#97
Safety Car
Thread Starter
went to a new autocross at an airport. thought it would be pretty cool with all the extra room. did runs in 2nd instead of usual 1st gear. was crazy to have to stop the racing to have a crop duster or Scout cross the race course in a plane! once and entire fleet of aerobatic planes went up and flew "blue angels" formations over us for half an hour.
Fu cking exhaust came off again. this is getting old. after i got this side back on, i checked the other and it just fell of when i barely touched it.
the previous day it was 50* and raining, and race day it was 50* again in the morning. i struggled all day with grip. front lateral grip seemed decent at times, but i just couldnt get any rear grip.
i believe i ended up still winning my class with a couple 34.0s but i think i was a little over half a second off the fastest overall time. probly had a top 3 or top 5 time.
but for some reason i just didnt enjoy it. didnt have fun. i dont know if i wasnt in the mood, or if i wasnt happy with the cars or my driving perfomance. but the whole day was just kind of meh. I think it may be time to get back to what i really love.....
Fu cking exhaust came off again. this is getting old. after i got this side back on, i checked the other and it just fell of when i barely touched it.
the previous day it was 50* and raining, and race day it was 50* again in the morning. i struggled all day with grip. front lateral grip seemed decent at times, but i just couldnt get any rear grip.
i believe i ended up still winning my class with a couple 34.0s but i think i was a little over half a second off the fastest overall time. probly had a top 3 or top 5 time.
but for some reason i just didnt enjoy it. didnt have fun. i dont know if i wasnt in the mood, or if i wasnt happy with the cars or my driving perfomance. but the whole day was just kind of meh. I think it may be time to get back to what i really love.....
05-03-2018, 08:55 PM
#100
Safety Car
Sometimes concrete can be surprisingly slippery and you said it was about 50 degrees on top of that ? But I'm also convinced Hoosier Autocross tires would be much better in these events....It's not like hot lapping, tires take 2-3 laps to get to their "right" temperature and maybe then your BF's will do the job but in an autocross where you need instant grip I don't think they're remotely close to the Hoosiers....