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Thanks everyone, I will get ready to cut that bumper up and get more air in. I checked my logs and water is 245-260 when getting hot. I do have a stock 98 ls1 water pump with 125k on it. Time for an evans.
With the splitter, the car is now a front breather. Recommend going all in... Tilt the radiator forward, cut out the middle of the hood to vent the air, and make a big opening in the front.
A fan has no effect once the car is moving at track speed. You need the proper sized opening based on total area of your radiator core. I can't find the exact formula but I think it's like 75% of the area. I'll try to dig it up.
True but, the stock fan will "cavitate" or block the air flow as they free spin at high road speeds and there is no "bypass" we saw a Large drop 20 -30 degrees from the fan install, over the dewitts rad and stock fans and the fans do not turn on till we are in the pits.
Some early c5 vettes had bypass flaps in the shroud stock but all of our c5z's do not, the 01 coupe did.
Leaned radiator forward with removed license plate framed boxed with sheet metal, vented hood, double row radiator, separate oil cooler, spal fan, front breather. 190 to 200 degree water temps in AZ. I believe leaning and sealing the radiator is the most important part of the equation.
I would seal that bottom inlet underneath the splitter. Like others said, that could be causing an issue rather than solving it. Air pressure wise, the bottom of the splitter is a low pressure air in regards to the front of the bumper cover. So even though you have a "scoop" you could still have air leaking out of that bottom cut from the high pressure air coming in from the front and stacking up against the radiator.
Force ALL air to come in from the front AND open up your bumper cover more. And cut the center bung in the ACI splitter piece as well.
If you will seal that bottom opening under the splitter, my bet is you will solve your cooling issue AND get more downforce on the front end.
/\ /\ /\ I agree with this completely.
I would also add that you need to close off the openings where the fog lights are located. They allow high pressure air to enter the engine compartment thus pressurizing it. That will negatively affect the amount of air passing through through the radiator. You want the engine compartment as low of a pressure zone as possible for cooling and front downforce.
I'm not an engineer, but I don't see how these solutions would work. The stock radiator is positioned to be in the path of air flow coming from the bottom of the car. If you close off the air flow from the bottom of the car with a splitter, it seems you would need to make a large opening in front, tilt the radiator forward, cut a hole in the hood for air exit, and seal it all off. Right?
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