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Want to pull trigger on improving my C6Z brake cooling. I've read numerous threads about DRM, LG, etc. What's the proven package and exactly what do I need to get it done. Track season is close! I have a shop and lift, just want to do this once and get it right. Tips??
Want to pull trigger on improving my C6Z brake cooling. I've read numerous threads about DRM, LG, etc. What's the proven package and exactly what do I need to get it done. Track season is close! I have a shop and lift, just want to do this once and get it right. Tips??
I've used Doug Rippie ducting which works very well. still use them for any track related parts
brake cooling time!
I started with Lambert/Quantum Fog light ducts and some race mesh
added a slim aluminum cobb LED DRL light to replace the fogs and add some style. i just wired them to the factory fog light plugs.
ducts and mesh in
lights test
surprisingly bright
bumper/splitter re-enforcement installed
ducts on fog ducts, and grill misc stuff reinstalled
factory under bumper duct inlet, i cut off the tube 1" inside of the wheel well (inside bumper)
and here it is with the fog light ducts connected to the factory wheel well duct with the wheel well pulled back. the silver line is where the wheel well intersects the hard duct.
you can also see the LEDs wired to the fog plug and the factory opening for the brake duct now disconnected.
after 4-5 test fits the bumper is back on finally!
next was time to install the spindle ducts.
first i had to remove the wheel speed sensor and cut off the bracket.
bracket dremeled off
upgraded the factory padlets to 1 piece hawks. had great luck with these on the camaro on track.
Lambert/Quantum competition spindle ducts installed. kit also came with the peices to fully enclose 360 degrees, but i chose to leave those off. also came with tie rod heat shields. left those off too.
factory plastic wheel well duct connected to the spindle duct. keep in mind the suspension is at full droop here. the two line up pretty close when at ride height.
rotor and caliper reinstalled. pic from the back side. seals against the rotor hub pretty good.
wheel clearance at ride height. TONS o room. at least an inch everywhere. way better than i ever had in the camaro.
I ran AzDave modified ducting from the front grille. It is a much better place to duct from as the fog lights are a low pressure area. The grille, by design, is a high pressure area. I have tested the kit on the track and it definitely works. It does require a bit of fiddling to get it all routed correctly. But well worth it once done.
Cutout and added a duct:
Added 4" racing hose:
Ran hose to the inner brake duct and then to the Lambert kit:
I kept it real simple and factory looking. Grabbed on to the OEM Z51 holes in the bottom of the front clip, used OEM Z06 air ducts (about $60 for both), and bought one of the common kits that cost me about $80 I think. The entire project took me 2-3 hours. Now the guy that do it through the fog lights has a more effective set up, but for a hobbyist that didn't want any compromises in looks, has limited time and resources, this was the best route for me. I have not tested it on the track yet but even with pads/ fluid/ and Z06 brakes, brake heat has always been my #1 issue at the track and the primary thing that limits my ability to drive my fastest.
What I really want is a full set of Racing Brake rotors as those are supposed to really solve overheating brake issues but $2K has me a bit reluctant.
You are correct, racing rotors help solve overheating. Yet not for me, probably cuz I'm hard on brakes and could be smoother. Nothing new for people to hear, but big brakes at least on the fronts are a real answer.
Havent several other posters stated that the foglights are a low pressure area?
Originally Posted by Mordeth
I ran AzDave modified ducting from the front grille. It is a much better place to duct from as the fog lights are a low pressure area. The grille, by design, is a high pressure area.[/IMG]
Several have stated its a low pressure area based on an incomplete CFD model. If you model it without airflow into the radiator and with foglights in place it is a transitional laminar area.
Once you start to take into account positive flow into the radiator with the grill installed and with the foglights removed, the model changes to the point they are just about equal. Adding a small fence outbd of the openings yields even better results.
Note adding screen in a transition area "foglight" will affect flow more than a direct ram area "nose", its really amazing how much screen impedes flow.
You are correct, racing rotors help solve overheating. Yet not for me, probably cuz I'm hard on brakes and could be smoother. Nothing new for people to hear, but big brakes at least on the fronts are a real answer.
To be clear I meant the brand of rotors, called Racing Brakes. I consider them the premium rotor set in the industry when it comes to dealing with heat.
I currently have Z06 sized DBA4000s on my base '08.
I had mine ducted from the fog lights using the factory ducts, BUT my front wheels are too wide and actually rubbed through those ducts. When I re-did the system I routed them from the grill, but had to get creative with the routing of the duct itself.
Once you start to take into account positive flow into the radiator with the grill installed and with the foglights removed, the model changes to the point they are just about equal. Adding a small fence outbd of the openings yields even better results.
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ive seen LG and TIKT do fences/scoops around the foglight ducts to increase flow even more.
I ran AzDave modified ducting from the front grille. It is a much better place to duct from as the fog lights are a low pressure area. The grille, by design, is a high pressure area. I have tested the kit on the track and it definitely works. It does require a bit of fiddling to get it all routed correctly. But well worth it once done.
Cutout and added a duct:
Added 4" racing hose:
Ran hose to the inner brake duct and then to the Lambert kit:
This setup works great!!! Many of us in So. Fl. have run it for years. JD
ive seen LG and TIKT do fences/scoops around the foglight ducts to increase flow even more.
Fog lights are a low-pressure area and this has proven to be ineffective w/out proper scoopage (if that's a word) like TiKT Performance bumper ducting.
I have a '10 GS (same OEM parts as a C6Z up front), and I did the Katech undertray
which eliminated the little under-bumper scoop flaps, and I paired that to the ZR1 front lip and Katech ZR1 Lip Intake ducts.
Added the orange silicone tubing and the LG Spindle duct kit and my brakes are cool as cucumbers.
Katech put some research into it, and I like it. I may go the TiKT route later on and mount my diff and trans coolers up front when I install a rear diffuser (currently both coolers are mounted in the OEM rear diffuser w/fans blowing down).
This setup works great!!! Many of us in So. Fl. have run it for years. JD
I understand the fog light ducting isn't the best as that area is a low pressure area and he grill area is a high pressure area. So, that area for brake cooling would be better.
I wonder how it compares to the factory location?
04-17-2017, 08:53 PM
C6Z06 brake ducting help
