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Accusump problem....

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Old Jun 5, 2017 | 09:03 PM
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Default Accusump problem....

Years ago I had the basic electrical solenoid accuator for my sump. When it disentergrated I went to the manual cable. But, it has hung up on me three times now. I have removed the fender twice, already. Before I dig in to it again I would like some feedback from others that may have tried their latest 'race' version of the electrical solenoid.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=24-271

Anyone?
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 12:08 AM
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I used one on my M3 race car for several years. I think I used the 30 PSI switch, and had a warning light connected whenever it actuated... seemed pretty consistent with which corners/loads/rpm it opened. Biggest issue was me forgetting to turn it on leaving the pits.
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by SouthernSon
Years ago I had the basic electrical solenoid accuator for my sump. When it disentergrated I went to the manual cable. But, it has hung up on me three times now. I have removed the fender twice, already. Before I dig in to it again I would like some feedback from others that may have tried their latest 'race' version of the electrical solenoid.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=24-271

Anyone?
I too have a digital light when it is activated. The only issue I've had is that the sump cannister doesn't always dump immediately. But if I keep the pressure up between 12 to 18 psi, it always dumps. The reason I know when it does and doesn't dump is that I installed it behind my seat in the back. For instance, prior to starting, I pre-charge the engine and can watch the gauge drop. Picture of where I put mine can be seen by looking at the 9th photo here http://s1111.photobucket.com/albums/...with%20hithch/
Oh by the way, when you say "hung up on you" what are you saying?

Last edited by Dirk Miller; Jun 6, 2017 at 01:17 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirk Miller
........... Oh by the way, when you say "hung up on you" what are you saying?
The cable gets jammed closed. I have rerouted it, shimmed the threads on the end from retracting too far into the jacket and changed the angle a couple of times but it still has occassion to jam. I appreciate the responses, guys. I like the idea of the indicator light, too. I think I'll get the latest electrical solenoid and try that again.
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 04:14 PM
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I don't think that is the new version of the valve. This is the one I've been using: https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...LVE-35-40-PSI/.

No problems yet. I only use it on the track, it would dump at every stoplight while driving on the street. I wired in a super-bright LED to get my attention when it dumps.

I recommend adding a diode to the solenoid to protect the pressure switch from the inductive kickback.
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 09:05 PM
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the old style, non-pressure sensitive, solenoids are my favorite. I had one bad at purchase once, but I've never had one fail during use. I use mine for pre-lube, so I can tell if it's working because I have pressure before startup
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Rx7Rob
I don't think that is the new version of the valve. This is the one I've been using: https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...LVE-35-40-PSI/.

No problems yet. I only use it on the track, it would dump at every stoplight while driving on the street. I wired in a super-bright LED to get my attention when it dumps.

I recommend adding a diode to the solenoid to protect the pressure switch from the inductive kickback.
You are correct. I spoke with them today and that is what is recommended now. I know those that have had success with just the cable, as I have had lately, with flow constantly going both ways while pressure varied with rpm but I think I'll go with the pressure switch for now in order to preclude too much oil in crankcase at times leading to the possibility of some oil aeration from crank contact. I am going with the 35-40 pressure switch.

Now, to remove the darn thing one more time.
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