ZR1 track build - comments welcome
#1
ZR1 track build - comments welcome
About to be proud new owner of 2013 ZR1 with a whopping 6,500 miles on it.
Going to make a track monster out of it but slowly over time - so staging upgrades and going to plot progress. Car will primarily be track TT, track days and little NASA/SCCA later on (SU/SP class). Will get some Street use but very limited
Been reading up here and there and will start with body/aero/suspension - then move on to phased engines upgrades. Please provide feedback/suggestions on my plan - as plans always get adjusted - and will adjust as needed here as well
Xpel film car - heck it's a 2013 right?
Forgeline race wheels 19x10.5 fr and 19x13 re. - Will run 305/345 A7 Hoosiers for track - some big DOT tires (non-run flat) off track
Sparco Ergo seats x2
PDAFT engine, tranny and sway bar pillow mounts
LG metal bushings all around
APR GT1000 rear wing with Tway bumper mount kit
LG long tube headers, X pipe with stock mufflers (for now) – high flow cats as well to keep street legal
LG long tube headers, X pipe with stock mufflers (for now) – high flow cats as well to keep street legal (for now as well)
LG or Penske or KW coilovers – undecided still – help me out here – leafs will be removed Fr/Rr — really like the KW with HLS for track/Street and getting in/out of trailer
TPS’s APR full flat splitter for ZR1- mounts right under stock splitter
TPS’s APR rear diffuser for coilover system - aka all the way to diff
8 point rollcage - NASA/SCCA/NHRA approved
AP racing brake f/r 372/340 kits w/ AP9668/AP9449 calipers
Tow hooks, kill switch, fire extinguisher etc - all misc safety items
Easy engine stuff - 160 deg Thermo - cold air intake improvements
Carbon hood vent for poly cover (suggestions here)
Engine phase one (some time after all above is complete)
Convert full time to E85
85 lbs injectors (for now)
Top pulley to 2.6
Balancer/lower pulley to 8.34 (idler and belt size needed?)
Air brick upgrade
Heat exchanger upgrade with dual fans (AFCO or similar)
Meth/water injection - snow kit
Tune only - 125 rwhp over stock?
Not wanting to go into any internals of engine on first pass
Engine phase two — long time from now cause now poor AF
Can see custom built “spare engine” in 1-2 years (based on how long above will last)
Going to make a track monster out of it but slowly over time - so staging upgrades and going to plot progress. Car will primarily be track TT, track days and little NASA/SCCA later on (SU/SP class). Will get some Street use but very limited
Been reading up here and there and will start with body/aero/suspension - then move on to phased engines upgrades. Please provide feedback/suggestions on my plan - as plans always get adjusted - and will adjust as needed here as well
Xpel film car - heck it's a 2013 right?
Forgeline race wheels 19x10.5 fr and 19x13 re. - Will run 305/345 A7 Hoosiers for track - some big DOT tires (non-run flat) off track
Sparco Ergo seats x2
PDAFT engine, tranny and sway bar pillow mounts
LG metal bushings all around
APR GT1000 rear wing with Tway bumper mount kit
LG long tube headers, X pipe with stock mufflers (for now) – high flow cats as well to keep street legal
LG long tube headers, X pipe with stock mufflers (for now) – high flow cats as well to keep street legal (for now as well)
LG or Penske or KW coilovers – undecided still – help me out here – leafs will be removed Fr/Rr — really like the KW with HLS for track/Street and getting in/out of trailer
TPS’s APR full flat splitter for ZR1- mounts right under stock splitter
TPS’s APR rear diffuser for coilover system - aka all the way to diff
8 point rollcage - NASA/SCCA/NHRA approved
AP racing brake f/r 372/340 kits w/ AP9668/AP9449 calipers
Tow hooks, kill switch, fire extinguisher etc - all misc safety items
Easy engine stuff - 160 deg Thermo - cold air intake improvements
Carbon hood vent for poly cover (suggestions here)
Engine phase one (some time after all above is complete)
Convert full time to E85
85 lbs injectors (for now)
Top pulley to 2.6
Balancer/lower pulley to 8.34 (idler and belt size needed?)
Air brick upgrade
Heat exchanger upgrade with dual fans (AFCO or similar)
Meth/water injection - snow kit
Tune only - 125 rwhp over stock?
Not wanting to go into any internals of engine on first pass
Engine phase two — long time from now cause now poor AF
Can see custom built “spare engine” in 1-2 years (based on how long above will last)
#2
Burning Brakes
Only thing that jumps out at me is you running 19in wheels. I think you should go to a 18in wheel for better tire choices. Your wheel choice is dead on though by going with Forgeline wheels. Another coilover choice to think about is JRi.
#3
2nd reason is other track car runs 19” and can flip tires (wheels different lug pattern) as needed between them.
A7 Hoosiers for track and proxes R888R Street - car will live 90%’on track. Both readily available in 19” there a couple other choices but agree a little more limited but have what I will use.
will look into the JRi coilovers
#5
Premium Supporting Vendor
About to be proud new owner of 2013 ZR1 with a whopping 6,500 miles on it.
Going to make a track monster out of it but slowly over time - so staging upgrades and going to plot progress. Car will primarily be track TT, track days and little NASA/SCCA later on (SU/SP class). Will get some Street use but very limited
Been reading up here and there and will start with body/aero/suspension - then move on to phased engines upgrades. Please provide feedback/suggestions on my plan - as plans always get adjusted - and will adjust as needed here as well
Xpel film car - heck it's a 2013 right?
Forgeline race wheels 19x10.5 fr and 19x13 re. - Will run 305/345 A7 Hoosiers for track - some big DOT tires (non-run flat) off track
Sparco Ergo seats x2
PDAFT engine, tranny and sway bar pillow mounts
LG metal bushings all around
APR GT1000 rear wing with Tway bumper mount kit
LG long tube headers, X pipe with stock mufflers (for now) – high flow cats as well to keep street legal
LG long tube headers, X pipe with stock mufflers (for now) – high flow cats as well to keep street legal (for now as well)
LG or Penske or KW coilovers – undecided still – help me out here – leafs will be removed Fr/Rr — really like the KW with HLS for track/Street and getting in/out of trailer
TPS’s APR full flat splitter for ZR1- mounts right under stock splitter
TPS’s APR rear diffuser for coilover system - aka all the way to diff
8 point rollcage - NASA/SCCA/NHRA approved
AP racing brake f/r 372/340 kits w/ AP9668/AP9449 calipers
Tow hooks, kill switch, fire extinguisher etc - all misc safety items
Easy engine stuff - 160 deg Thermo - cold air intake improvements
Carbon hood vent for poly cover (suggestions here)
Engine phase one (some time after all above is complete)
Convert full time to E85
85 lbs injectors (for now)
Top pulley to 2.6
Balancer/lower pulley to 8.34 (idler and belt size needed?)
Air brick upgrade
Heat exchanger upgrade with dual fans (AFCO or similar)
Meth/water injection - snow kit
Tune only - 125 rwhp over stock?
Not wanting to go into any internals of engine on first pass
Engine phase two — long time from now cause now poor AF
Can see custom built “spare engine” in 1-2 years (based on how long above will last)
Going to make a track monster out of it but slowly over time - so staging upgrades and going to plot progress. Car will primarily be track TT, track days and little NASA/SCCA later on (SU/SP class). Will get some Street use but very limited
Been reading up here and there and will start with body/aero/suspension - then move on to phased engines upgrades. Please provide feedback/suggestions on my plan - as plans always get adjusted - and will adjust as needed here as well
Xpel film car - heck it's a 2013 right?
Forgeline race wheels 19x10.5 fr and 19x13 re. - Will run 305/345 A7 Hoosiers for track - some big DOT tires (non-run flat) off track
Sparco Ergo seats x2
PDAFT engine, tranny and sway bar pillow mounts
LG metal bushings all around
APR GT1000 rear wing with Tway bumper mount kit
LG long tube headers, X pipe with stock mufflers (for now) – high flow cats as well to keep street legal
LG long tube headers, X pipe with stock mufflers (for now) – high flow cats as well to keep street legal (for now as well)
LG or Penske or KW coilovers – undecided still – help me out here – leafs will be removed Fr/Rr — really like the KW with HLS for track/Street and getting in/out of trailer
TPS’s APR full flat splitter for ZR1- mounts right under stock splitter
TPS’s APR rear diffuser for coilover system - aka all the way to diff
8 point rollcage - NASA/SCCA/NHRA approved
AP racing brake f/r 372/340 kits w/ AP9668/AP9449 calipers
Tow hooks, kill switch, fire extinguisher etc - all misc safety items
Easy engine stuff - 160 deg Thermo - cold air intake improvements
Carbon hood vent for poly cover (suggestions here)
Engine phase one (some time after all above is complete)
Convert full time to E85
85 lbs injectors (for now)
Top pulley to 2.6
Balancer/lower pulley to 8.34 (idler and belt size needed?)
Air brick upgrade
Heat exchanger upgrade with dual fans (AFCO or similar)
Meth/water injection - snow kit
Tune only - 125 rwhp over stock?
Not wanting to go into any internals of engine on first pass
Engine phase two — long time from now cause now poor AF
Can see custom built “spare engine” in 1-2 years (based on how long above will last)
#6
Drifting
Another for 18's. As for engine mods, Kong Performance. He does great ZR1 work.
#8
I don’t see any advantage going 18” vs 19” wheels - actually only negatives. Sidewalls on similar width race tires will be taller on 18” vs 19” (race A7 Hoosiers), 18” will limit front brake choices to 355mm or smaller rotors, changeable with used/new tires from my second car. Again car is going on the track not the drag strip - may do 1-2 quarter mile runs just to get a time.
aside from a larger DOT tire selection - what would be advantageous to go 18” over 19” wheels? In a full time track application......
aside from a larger DOT tire selection - what would be advantageous to go 18” over 19” wheels? In a full time track application......
Last edited by GndHog; 07-11-2018 at 12:56 AM.
#9
Drifting
There are a larger selection of scrubs available in 18' sizes at very reasonable prices.
#11
Running the ACR 355 rears on other car with 19x13 wheels - so i could be making my own scrubs.....
anyone put the 355’s on 19x13’s in Z06/ZR1 rear end? Required offset/backspacing/tubbing required? Won’t be flaring fenders anytime soon.......
anyone put the 355’s on 19x13’s in Z06/ZR1 rear end? Required offset/backspacing/tubbing required? Won’t be flaring fenders anytime soon.......
#12
Supporting Vendor
Wow...I'm looking forward to seeing the final product on this one...sounds like it will be a dream track monster!
I get your point of running the OEM discs until they need to be replaced. Based on your plans to cage the car, it's highly unlikely that anyone is going to turn your car back into a boulevard cruiser/museum piece once you're done with it. They probably won't be too concerned about receiving a set of pristine OEM ceramic discs with the car, as most pre-owned ZR1 buyers would.
In terms of needing a custom rear disc, I can't imagine that will be necessary. I've never heard of anyone having any wear rate issues or problems with our standard rear 340mm Radi-CAL kits, regardless of their power level, etc. The C7R runs a 355mm rear disc, as did the C6R. These cars just aren't that tough on rear brakes. That said, if you got to the point of needing a bigger disc like we offer for the C7 (365x30mm), we would do everything we could to help you. Again though, it's likely just extra dead weight to drag around. Our 340mm rear disc has gotten the job done for years, and most guys are getting a couple years out of their rear discs. By all means we encourage you to push the envelope though!
At any rate, thanks for considering our brake products, and definitely let us know if we can be of help along the way. Also, thanks for saving this virginal car from a lifetime of collecting dust, and blessing it with a future of tearing up the track!
going 19” inch for a couple of reasons - brake clearance - keeping the stock ceramic brakes until rotors need replaced then 372mm front brakes vs. 355mm - car will get HP pushed way up later and Rear may get custom upgrade to 362mm rotors later as well.
In terms of needing a custom rear disc, I can't imagine that will be necessary. I've never heard of anyone having any wear rate issues or problems with our standard rear 340mm Radi-CAL kits, regardless of their power level, etc. The C7R runs a 355mm rear disc, as did the C6R. These cars just aren't that tough on rear brakes. That said, if you got to the point of needing a bigger disc like we offer for the C7 (365x30mm), we would do everything we could to help you. Again though, it's likely just extra dead weight to drag around. Our 340mm rear disc has gotten the job done for years, and most guys are getting a couple years out of their rear discs. By all means we encourage you to push the envelope though!
At any rate, thanks for considering our brake products, and definitely let us know if we can be of help along the way. Also, thanks for saving this virginal car from a lifetime of collecting dust, and blessing it with a future of tearing up the track!
Last edited by JRitt@essex; 07-11-2018 at 02:51 PM.
#13
Pro
Going to need a crapload more front downforce than that thing will provide. Look at a tunneled splitter from someone like RHR or ACP.
Oh and when you get sphericals, spring for a good set of bearings that are precision and teflon lined.
Last edited by fmcokc; 07-11-2018 at 04:31 PM.
#14
That flat splitter is going to mount directly under the stock ZR1 splitter that is tunneled - going to clear out all the “other” stuff there - reroute Brake duct inlets etc. a little sealer between the two splitters and should seal up nicely and function as a single unit. The stock “splitter” is more like an air dam and not very deep at all.
roger on the best bearings can get - was plan
roger on the best bearings can get - was plan
Last edited by GndHog; 07-11-2018 at 04:39 PM.
#15
Tech Contributor
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I don’t see any advantage going 18” vs 19” wheels - actually only negatives. Sidewalls on similar width race tires will be taller on 18” vs 19” (race A7 Hoosiers), 18” will limit front brake choices to 355mm or smaller rotors, changeable with used/new tires from my second car. Again car is going on the track not the drag strip - may do 1-2 quarter mile runs just to get a time.
aside from a larger DOT tire selection - what would be advantageous to go 18” over 19” wheels? In a full time track application......
aside from a larger DOT tire selection - what would be advantageous to go 18” over 19” wheels? In a full time track application......
I wouldn't dump a bunch of money into diffusers until I knew whether or not they actually did anything. A lot of stuff on the market is made for looks and not function. You want function and shouldn't give a damn about looks. Looking good is a side benefit after function is provided. For proper engineering/testing of aerodynamic body panels and splitters I would look to companies like LG and Katech.
If you haven't driven a ZR1 on track I suggest you forget the engine mods until you get used to the low rpm throttle response and are able to use all the power the stock engine provides. You can get around a track very fast with a properly prepared track car using a stock engine. You aren't playing with a grocery getter that only has 300 HP.
Bill
#16
Pro
That flat splitter is going to mount directly under the stock ZR1 splitter that is tunneled - going to clear out all the “other” stuff there - reroute Brake duct inlets etc. a little sealer between the two splitters and should seal up nicely and function as a single unit. The stock “splitter” is more like an air dam and not very deep at all.
roger on the best bearings can get - was plan
roger on the best bearings can get - was plan
I don't think you understand. You want the bottom of the splitter to look like this:[img]webkit-fake-url://fb00905a-231b-42fb-a489-0526dc05fae2/imagejpeg
#17
Bill, Fully aligned with limited engine mods - will only add cold air, headers and X pipe along with flex fuel sensor and tune for E85 full time use. And then will only address any temperature issues until I can fully handle existing power.
18” vs 19” - the Hoosiers for the 19” 315 front 345 rear are almost identical to 18” Hoosiers - front is a little taller and it will allow recycling tires between two cars - IE save money on the biggest expense by far. Having 1/2” taller fronts should not be major concern- correct?
I have some aero data and real time feedback from several racers from over here in Bahrain at F1 track - a proper rear diffuser - that goes as far under rear of car as possible (to rear diff) makes an impact.......
18” vs 19” - the Hoosiers for the 19” 315 front 345 rear are almost identical to 18” Hoosiers - front is a little taller and it will allow recycling tires between two cars - IE save money on the biggest expense by far. Having 1/2” taller fronts should not be major concern- correct?
I have some aero data and real time feedback from several racers from over here in Bahrain at F1 track - a proper rear diffuser - that goes as far under rear of car as possible (to rear diff) makes an impact.......
#19
Drifting
Sell the car and build a NA c6 grandsport or z06. Superchargers and tracktime don't play nice.
#20
Pro
They have whole packages for the C6
Pretty good stuff. I have installed some of their components on several cars. They are really starting to breakout into the mainstream.
You should really look at their full kit.
https://rhrperf.com/c6-corvette-mdf-...downforce-kit/
Then there is the stuff from Kerry Hitt. He produces the World Challenge C6 bodywork
http://www.acproducts.us/corvetteracebod.htm
Probably a bit more racey then you are wanting though.
Last edited by fmcokc; 07-12-2018 at 12:05 PM.