fatbillybob

You would think with stock C5 clutch you could buy a stock slave and just bolt it in. Many say you need to measure the "A" distance PP fingers to mating surface vs. the "B" distance fully compressed T/O bearing to mating surface and have the "B" distance 1/8"-3/16" less than "A." That measurement seems to work. As a racer I have replaced my clutch several times with and without doing the measurement because of early ignorance and was fine. I may have been lucky?

So as a public service announcement you have to measure these things. I got a brand new GM slave with companion T/O bearing from a GM dealer and it is over 6mm difference in the fully compressed "B" distance than the old GM bearing. Wow! That's big.

63Corvette

I didn't know that. I learn something useful every time I am on this Forum. Thanks:-)

exracer28

That becomes more important when installing aftermarket parts. I have known some people that installed a tick master rather then doing it right. There is also two schools of thought of how to add shims but I don't want to start a pissing contest on which way is better but if your measurements are not within normal limits you have to shim or change master. I don't think there is any other way of correcting the distance requirement.

Supercharged111

I had my slave within tolerance with the Spec clutch, new slave, remote bleeder and it still wouldn't shift. For some I believe the Tick is the only answer. That said, a stock bore Tick is likely up to the task as opposed to the normal Tick master that I purchased. I feel PP travel is a little excessive with it but the pedal is more consistent with it too.

fatbillybob

I agree! My post was generated because I was using OEM stock GM parts and there are major differences there. GM suppliers have changed over the years and who knows who makes whatover a decade after the end of the last model year. I bought a GM diff cover o-ring because I got a leak there. There is a TSB on it. Well the new o-ring was thinner than the old original one! I reused my old one and added in the Loctite for gaskets and no leaks!

fatbillybob

I always wondered if that is bad? I'm thinking maybe its a good idea to find the point the clutch engages and have a stop on the floor to make sure I'm not over travel. No one ever talks about that.

trackboss

It is bad. Damages the diaphragm. I have never seen factory stuff with any sort of stop. It's a good idea however. On the race cars that I have either built or worked on I always have put solid stops on the clutch pedal. It's been with pedal assemblies using triple masters so everything was custom and simply lent themselves to such a setup.
Those cars all had exposed driveshafts so it was easier to find the point to stop the clutch, but with some help to turn both rear wheels it can be done on a corvette. The driveshaft method goes like this: Rear wheels off ground. It should be obvious, but engine not operating. Engage 4th gear, or whatever is 1:1 in your application. Have someone attempt to rotate driveshaft by hand and have another slowly depress clutch. Once driveshaft spins the point is discovered where the stop needs to be.