DIYBrad

I currently have LG monoballs, LG G2 coilovers, AMT camber kit with upper stud kit and will be running slicks at Sebring. I got my thrust angle set and I am now about to start adjusting the camber. I am using the Longacre digital camber caster gauge and below are the readings I just took. Car is perfectly level and I checked measurements twice. Note: with the AMT camber plates, i am set on T2 at all corners.

Front Left.. -3.4 end goal -2.9 to 3.0
Front Right -3.9 end goal -2.9 to 3.0
Rear Left -2.2 end goal -2.1 to 2.2
Rear Right -3.0 end goal -2.1 to 2.2

Is it normal to have this much variance from left to right? Above i specified my anticipated camber. Based on the track and my suspension mods, do those camber settings look like good starting points or is that too aggressive?

Thanks

Brad

davidfarmer

Yes it is common. Ever car and every part is different

You will have to reset your thrust angle after you set your camber-castor

Rarely does a corvette need over 3deg of new camber front, 2 rear

blkbrd69

What tires? What track?

David has forgotten more than most of us combined, yes a 1/2 degree deference in sides is normal tolerance.

I'm thinking your talking Sebring on scrubs or R7's? Might think about 2.7F & 2.2R as a starting point? With monoballs, stiff LG's and T1 sways you will need less camber.

If planning Daytona???? Reference most tire manufactures set the max limit of 2 1/2 degrees which will be solid for Sebring also.

Once you take lots of notes it will be easy to swap shim stacks.

And after you drive and re corner weight be prepaired to fine tune. Then you will take tire temps and tune again

DIYBrad

This is great info. I will be running Pirelli Scrubs at Sebring with Monos and Coilovers. I have started an excel doc with referencing what each setting on the AMT camber plates do as well as how much the shims change camber. I have been playing with the settings all day and i think i have them in a decent spot to get me started.

Where i have them set so far are as follows:

Front Left: -2.7 Front Right: -2.6
Rear Left: -1.8 Rear Right: -1.7

I still have to do Caster and Toe but i think i am set for the Camber unless someone tells me other wise. I tired to get them more exact from side to side but this is the closest i could get.

DIYBrad

Follow up question just to make sure i understand Toe correctly. On the front, i need either 0 or some positive toe (tires wider at the front) and for the rear i need a little negative toe (tires closer at the front).

Is this a correct statement?

Bill Dearborn

Basically true although you should check the DSC Sport alignment sheets for their recommendations.

The unofficial standard is to refer to Toe In as positive and Toe Out as negative. At least that is what GM uses and most alignment machines I have seen do the same. However, there are a few that use your terminology. Like you did in this post it is always a good idea to provide the signed number with either Toe In or Toe Out following so there is no confusion.

Bill

DIYBrad

Thank you for the clarification. I have seen them referred both ways i forgot which was which.

As for castor, i just got done checking my current castor. I got 9.6 degrees on both sides. I haven't seen anyone say to use castor about 8-8.5. Is 9.6 to high? I know balance across sides is generally more important.

If i need to change castor, i add shims to the two rear A-arm bolts correct?

This is the first time i have done my own alignment so i am double and triple checking everything.

DIYBrad

I think i have my camber and castor finally done for now. I am about to drive the car then recheck everything before i set the toe so the numbers may change a little. I will probably mess with the castor again using the camber plates instead of shims but for now i am calling it good.

How do these numbers look?

Front Left: -2.4 Front Right: -2.4
Rear Left: -1.4 Rear Right: -1.4
Right and left Castor - 8

dowroa

Just a simple question -- is this alignment without driver's weight in the driver seat? Thanks.

DIYBrad

I did have weight in the driver seat to accommodate for me.

andersnor

I run about 3,2 front and 2,33 rear, and will be toning it down for 2020 season, with the uniballs and lack of roll and deflection Im just not seeing the outer wear indicators hit at all.

Was thinking dialing it down to maybe 2,5 front and 1.9 rear? tips appreciated.